Stove For a New Build

We got a quote for our remodel that I asked about a new stove for a while ago.

Stuffing this old joint in a dumpster and starting over is a VERY real consideration. In a new build ~1500sqft house what are you folks running? We would probably have a stove on the main floor and one in the basement. Planning on finished basement, maybe not where the mechanicals will be.

 

The dreaded answer, "It depends". How well will the new house be insulated? 6" wall studs with spray foam insulation and triple pane windows will save energy year round. Some folks are running stoves in older homes with leaky, single-pane windows. Major difference. How will air be circulated through the house? Will there be central ductwork to move heat around the house? If the basement is finished, will there be enough air circulation to have one big stove in the basement instead of one upstairs and one downstairs?

There is an old saying, "You can build a small fire in a big stove but you can't build a big fire in a small stove". Your signature states that you are in Western Michigan. If it were me in that region of the country, I'd be aiming for a larger stove with a blower. Small fires during the shoulder seasons to take the chill off. When it gets below 0, pack the firebox and let it rip. We then go in to CAT vs. Non CAT stoves which is a whole ball of wax. I have run three non-CAT stoves and strongly prefer the Ideal Steel CAT Hybrid over the non-CAT stoves. Some folks don't want to be bothered with replacing the CAT every 3-5 years. Other FWH members will chime in with their thoughts.

 

Today is day 2 of looking at this as an option vs the remodel. I assume 2x6, spray foam, good windows and doors. I have never run a CAT stove so I can’t say I prefer or don’t prefer it. We would have central duct work for additional heat and AC. I think our current place is the leaky single pane house!!! Fireplace insert is rated for 2000+SF but it sure doesn’t keep up.

 

With poor insulation (and if no plans to make that better), don't go smaller than a 3 cu ft box unless the stove room is situated such that the heat does not spread easily.

I heat from the (walk-out thru the garage) basement, which helps with tracking in crud. I did make a system where I suck cold air from the LR floor and deposit that down on the basement floor, so that the hot air near the basement ceiling gets pushed up the stairs to the living floors. Without that I'd not be warm enough on the living floors.

If all your ducts are inside the insulated envelope, you may not need that. But if you do something like this, do look into a fusible link fire damper (cutting a hole in a wooden floor system is penetrating a fire barrier).

That said, for sure put a stove on the living floors; generally it's best to put one there where you want the heat.

 

I have a similar home 1600sq ft, we built in 1979, moved in 1980. I've got a Woodstock Soapstine Fireview in the main kitchen/living room side of the house. It is a beautiful stove and the centerpiece of the house. We built the house with a wood stove in the plan. It's a perfect-sized stove for this house.

The house has 9" insulation in the ceiling, and 6 inches in the outside walls. I have a one car under garage on one side of the house, and I have a family room on the other side with a Woodstock Absolute Steel Hybrid. It is only used when it gets really cold, as the laundry is down there. It used to be my home office, retired 13 years ago.

Don't be afraid of Cat stoves. At least the ones in Woodstock stoves are easy to change. The Absolute Steel is both a cat and a secondary burn system, the best of both worlds. At least consider either of these stoves. Between the quality of the stoves, and the excellent service of the Woodstock team, their products can't be beat.

 

I’m not against looking at CAT or hybrid. I’ve always gotten along well with the burn tube types. For a well built and insulated basement has anyone put a smaller stove just for a bit of extra basement heat? The upstairs stove I will size to the floor plan. I don’t want to cook ourselves out but I enjoy when the furnace doesn’t run.

 

Joe, my basement is exactly that, well built and insultated. But my basement was only 2/3s as the other 1/3rd is a garage under for my motorcycles. But even that is insulated, but not heated.

The Absolute Steel is just a bit more that I needed, but it's such a long burn stove I start it in the AM and about 10PM fill it up for the night, when we have a few days of single digit weather, as we have right now.

But sure a smaller stove is usually fine too for going down on occasion.

 

I have an Absolute Steel in a 1600sf ranch and the max I load it is 3x a day when it is well below 0. If my house was built more vertical opposed to horizontal I could probably get away with twice. If it is 40s and below during the day its 2x and 50s I can usually get away with just at night.

A CAT stove would do well in a new home as you can dial back the heat. Also, the Absolute steel is side loading ( I like to keep the mess off to the side) and is top vent so when you add a heat shield you can get within 8" of a combustible wall which will add more floor space.

It also complements a mini-split system very well as you can use them in the shoulder season or when you travel. But beware that some insurance companies do not consider them central heating.

 

Are you going to a full basement? If properly insulated should stay at 60° at 8’ depth. If building new and account for ceiling heights. Mine does I am darn near 45th parallel

 

2000sq ft new build ranch in Michigan with 9 foot ceilings. I have a Quadrafire Pioneer 2. It heats the whole main level on its own pretty good except for the furthest bedroom. Pacific Energy also makes some nice units.

 

If going closed cell spray foam you would only need 2x4 framing. 2x6 will have less thermal bridging but the price difference might not make sense etc 2x4 vs 2x6 is kind of a wash in alot of cases.

 

I disagree, close cell
Is about R-7 an inch, so 3.5 inch equals R 24

New construction and want to save on insulation? Nah 2*6 gets R 36 walls

get cheaper counters windows and doors

 

I thought all new construction was 2 x 6 walls.

Maybe that's just for around these parts?

 

I think we are headed toward new after another meeting yesterday. Of course it costs more but we would get a garage and a basement that’s usable. Our goal is low maintenance and efficient. Nothing fancy. Laminate counters, carpet bedrooms, LVP or linoleum elsewhere. Asphalt shingles, vinyl siding. My luxury will be the wood stoves

 

Don't skimp on insulation.

Energy prices will continue to rise.

100 years ago, houses were built without much thought to insulating them. Just put in a way too large heating system, was the norm. Common practice was to overheat and just leave a window(s) open. But, energy prices were way low then.

I mentioned this in another thread but here goes once again.

Check out the rebates available from here. I have used them in the past and the rebate check comes directly to you!

Find Savings — Residential | Efficiency United — Michigan Solutions, Michigan Savings

 

Maybe in Vermont but hes in the same AO as me. Let me know the cost difference for that extra closed cell he'd never make it up. Maybe a proper depth flash and batt but not 100% closed cell. Cheap windows? Thats one of the most absurd things I've heard.

 

Depends on code and builder etc. Lots of framing crews don't know how to frame 24" oc and you don't want to be their experiment lol. 2x4 with exterior insulation is also a newer trend.

 

Can't they read tapes or what?

Why would the builder revert to a 24" oc if using 2 x 6's?

Even when working in Wis, it was 2 x 6 16" oc.

 

Well Michigan is a big state with several climate zones. His description did not clarify where!

Ok closed cell is $1 sq ft sprayed 2 inch thick.. I didn’t single pane glass I said cheaper window now there are many examples I will use Anderson 400 series a good double pane reputable builder available at BBS
All windows have 20-25 year life span at best!
400 series let’s say avg $700 Mid Range
Trip pane w argon and sun reflecting are $2,000
If you pull the 3 specs on the window. Then add in your cost of fuel and how much $$ savings in energy cost your window will pay for itself is 150 years my insulation 10 years..

NOW 25 years from now which is easier to change your insulation or your windows?


Call my statement absurd pull up calculator and numbers and prove it!

PS all building is cost vs performance I don’t always type as fast as I think. I basically said spend more $ on insulation than counters windows doors.. those are pretty only items and easy to change!

 

Because a 2x6 has r value of 1 and transmits cold really see it on thermal camera. Trying to achieve state mandated efficiency requirements..

most GCs go cheap on framer s; dumb decision get a good framer who can read a tape and level! saves thousands making it look right later