"Roller cutter" is what my buddy said. I counted and 6 more sheets on the right side and it will be covered to the point that only trailer/ tractor tires will get snow on them. No more snow on our toys/ equipment. Edit Ok the roller cutter is a 18 v Milwaukee battery tool. So that should make the job really easy.
I'm curious about that tool, but I didn't have any luck Googling it. Milwaukee makes a couple different shears that I found, a two-bladed shear sort of like professional snips, and a three-bladed cutter that produces a roll of waste out of the cut material between the two outer jaws. Was it something like these, or something more like an industrial metal cutter (that I'd always heard referred to as a "roller cutter" ) where there are two large opposing disks/rollers that shear the metal in the gap where the wheels meet? I'm getting ready to do some metal work and would like a good clean way to cut it. Corrugated/ribbed metal can be tough to cut cleanly. Thanks!
A "nibbler" is what I've seen used at work for metal building work. Those 3 jaws work too but best when going with the ribs of the metal or ripping a sheet narrower. The nibbler works for cutting across the ribs or making a sheet shorter or small holes for electrical boxes. Both Milwaukee brand. Edit: I can remember my dad using a metal cutting blade in a regular circular saw when he built his barn.
Tools you guys are soft… my dad used to draw a line with a marker and hand us kids tin snips.. luckily he had multiple kids and pairs of snips.. After hard wood floors was sanded He was replacing baseboards. Yup hammer and punch. I walked in with pancake compressor and nail gun.. yup it left in dads trunk
Hand shears are easier to keep things straight than with snips...but if you have a lot of footage to do, then a powered tool will be nice
The easiest way to rip metal siding is just to score it with a sharp utility knife blade, then fold it on the score. I've cut 100's this way, way faster AND cleaner than using a nibbler.
Question? What’s the 2x4 clamped to one of the roof rafters? Just to hold in place temporarily I would guess?
When I added on to my shop a couple years ago I read about not cutting with a saw, so I researched it. Many/most manufacturers seem to recommend shearing the metal, not cutting, especially by abrasive wheel. They claim shearing smears some galvanizing across the newly exposed steel during the process. Makes sense to me I guess! I know I've seen the results of using a whiz wheel to cut...often leaves rust stain, at the cut, and wherever steel particles are left behind. Also, if snapping chalk line for screws, supposed to use blue, or at least not red. Red stains and the line is there forever more...blue, or green not nearly as much. Now, if we could only get in agreement on wether to screw the rib, or the flat! That seems to be hotly contested, with experts landing on both sides. I've done it both ways...advantages with each.
Yes. Temporary holding clamp. It snowed and got windy. That particular 2x4 just hadn't come down yet.
We're "team flat" on screwing. This is my 4th project using this stuff. 2 versatube carports, 1 woodshed, and 1 steel roof on a house. All screwed on the flats
That's where I ended up too. I like the idea of screwing the ribs, but by the time you get a bit of compression on the washer, the steel is starting to deform.
X2 The few times ive worked with the stuff I've done it that way too. I helped a contractor friend side his daughters huge barn with the siding version. (no high ribs) He didn't chalk lines and the screws were all over the place. They did the roof the year before and even worse! Bugged the chit out of me to look at it.
The Amish guys who worked on my buildings used a sharp metal punch and drove holes through the entire stack of siding before they started hanging it. Every hole is in EXACTLY the same spot.
