Farmertec 372XP Build

That's what led me down the base gasket route. I found a thread over at OPE, and they were talking about a similar issue, and how these saws didn't originally even have an O ring and ran fine. Per the thread over at OPE, I put some Hylomar blue on the bushing, buttoned everything back up. Of course, the stupid spring on the chain brake gave me a hard time.

Where can I get a sticker like that?

 

Amateur saw builder here. I'm sure Hylomar blue is great product, it's probably the guy doing the work. I however do find it a little suspicious that there wasn't even any present when I pulled the cylinder off. I know I put some on the cylinder, and the base. Maybe I got a bad batch IDK.

If you've been using it for years without any issue I would keep using it.

 

I've only use the hylomar for base gasket deletes. I haven't tried it on anything else.

 

There usually isn't a lot if I remove a cylinder during testing but theres always something. I do lay it on thicker than I would any other sealant because it wont stay in the engine partially blocking ports. Any that squeezes in ends up eventually going out the exhaust without causing damage.

 

I didn't lay it on very thick because I was concerned about it getting sucked up in the ports and going into the case. After it dried, I did spray water around the base of the cylinder and ran a vac test and none of it was getting sucked up. Live, and learn.

 

I've also used Yamabond with good results. Scott Kunz has been using Dirko for decades.

 

Switch to a pressure test and use soapy water.

 

Really need to do pressure and vac test to know 100% good to go...not uncommon to pass one, and not the other.

 

Don't want to railroad my own thread but I think you are missing the whole point of building the saw. Built this saw to learn how to work on this type of stuff (please see the first post). I didn't grow up working on engines, and I've always wanted to learn the basics about gas engines, and I think a $200 box of chainsaw parts is the best way to do it. Yeah, I could have bought a blown up 372XP but I'm not a fan of buying other people's junk. There are plenty of folks on here that can turn junk into gold, I don't have that god given ability. Also, my kid's college doesn't pay for itself. As much as I'd love to have a 572XP or a 564XP when they come out, I can't justify the cost for something I'm only going to use a few hours a year at best. That's why I'm trying to fix this saw vs buying a new one. The upside, I'm learning how to fix my own mistakes / issues I created.

 

Currently using a one-man brake bleeder vacuum that I had. Is there vac / pressure tool that you recommend?

 

I know I get it, just busting your balls for expecting reliability out of a box of inferior Chinese clone parts being assembled by a guy who's never done it. What could possibly go wrong??

 

Some of the Mityvacs can do both.

 

No need to explain yourself or justify why you went this route. That’s what these kits are made for. They’re a good learning platform. I can definitely see the appeal, especially when factoring in the financial aspects.

 

This ^ ^ ^

 

It's like a 3d puzzle that actually gets used once together.

Or a model car/truck/plane that actually has real moving parts.

In other words, an adult 3d puzzle

 

That’s what I’ve heard. I haven’t built one yet but that’s because I’ve been resurrecting OEM turds But the clones do have their place.

 

Definitely a learning tool, at the very least. Can mess something up real good and not ruin a $600+ saw. I can see why some guys build em.

 

That's exactly why I did it. Plus all of my current saws run fine. No fun in trying to fix something that runs.

 

Never heard the phrase "fix til it breaks" huh?
I was never quite sure if that was supposed to mean keep messin with it until you screw it up, or keep modifying it until it pops (as in, how many lbs boost pressure until kablooey)