Farmertec 372XP Build

I don't really have a break in procedure. I just ran it like normal. I did a muffler mod on it later on.

 

Soooo....this puppy been in wood yet?

 

While we were tuning the carb I had it is some wood but I haven't taken it out to the woods yet. I'm hoping to get it out into the woods this coming weekend if it isn't a muddy mess outside. I'll probably take the 28" bar off of it and put the 24" Husky Light bar on it.

 

Got some "seat time" with the saw today. It cold started on the third pull after two pulls with the choke wide open. I forgot to open the decompression valve the first pull and my arm definitely felt it. Couldn't imaging starting a big CC saw without a decompression valve. It cuts really good, it didn't bog down or even slow down when cutting up smaller stuff. I flush cut a 24" stump and it slowed down some but I forgot my wedges so I think that was because the chain was getting pinched. Would it cut even better with a muffler mod ?

Still playing with my gas to bar oil ratio. It's currently using about one tank of gas to about three quarters tank of bar oil. I gave the oiler another half turn when I got back to the shop to see if that gets me closer. It does like its gas though. That seems to be a common "complaint" that I've read about the 372.

It's sporting a 24" Husky Light bar in the below picture. The 28" Farmertec bar is way too heavy for day - day use IMHO.



Hadn't run the my 562XP in a while so I did some cutting today with it too. I noticed that there wasn't much of a difference in weight between the two saws. Out of curiosity I weighed them when I got home. The 372 had a full tank of gas and oil, and the 562 had about half a tank of oil and gas. The 562 has a 20" Husqvarna bar on it, and the 372 has a 24" Husky Light bar on it.

562XP - 15.5lbs roughly



372XP - 16lbs

 

Ive got a g660 kit ive been itching to tear into...do you know if anyone has a parts list/build sheet like the 372?

 

I’m not aware of one for the 660 off hand. I know brenndatomu built a 660, maybe he has one or knows where to get one. I followed a few different YouTube videos a couple guys from OPE did on their 372 builds. Those were a huge help.

The Farmertec Facebook group had some stuff in the files section for the various saw builds. I was able to get a parts diagram from there.

 

I'd have to dig around a lil now...there were a TON of 660 build groups/pages/threads a few years back...

 

Here is some 660 build vids from member 94BULLITT , this is just the first one...he has 'em all though...

 

After 20 - 30 hours of the use the O ring on the clutch side has given up the ghost. Was noodling some big locust rounds, and for the life of me I couldn't keep the saw running unless it was WOT. For grins yesterday, I pulled the top off an reset the low side of the carb at 1 1/4 turns, it started and idled fine and then died after a minute or so of just idling. It would start and run for a bit a bit if it played with the choke and died. Was pretty sure it wasn't the carb because it idled fine cold. Remember when I built the saw I had a heck of a time getting the O ring to seat and seal properly.

Pulled everything off today, and shot some WD on the O ring and pulled vacuum, and it got sucked into the saw. Tried to pull the O ring out with a small screwdriver and it started to pull apart. Is a pick a better tool? And does anybody have any tricks and they can share they've used to get this to seal correctly, use two maybe? The worst part about this whole thing is getting the chain brake spring back in place. Taking the cover off was the only way I could figure on how to get the oiler out in order to access the O ring.



YouTube video about the stupid O ring -

 

The best part of a having a cheap Chinese saw you got as a box of parts is that you aren’t afraid to tear into it.

As fast and I lose vacuum I’m not convinced it’s just the O ring. Did a base gasket delete on the saw and I don’t think I got it fully sealed or it’s lost it’s seal over time, so I’m going to put the base gasket on.

Got too excited putting the piston back into the jug and I broke the bottom ring. Live and learn. Should have some new rings this week I hope.

On the upside it looks like the Red Armor at 40-1 is doing its job.

 

What sealer did you use for the gasket delete? Did it take some doing to break the cylinder free? A good quality sealer with well prepped surfaces means that they don't come lose too easily.
Is that dirt on the cases above the crank bearings? If so, I assume that's just from taking things apart?

 

Hylomar Blue, it says it’s good to 482F. It came loose pretty easy. Was expecting to see gasket sealer on the jug and the case and there was none. Surfaces were wiped down beforehand.

Cleaned the jug off as best as I could but I don’t have a compressor in my basement to blow things off with. Have a small one my dad built I need to get up and running and moved into my basement. I’m assuming that fell off the jug. The bottom of the case looks clean.

I have that big locust to cut up and I just need it to run. At this point I’ll sacrifice a little bit of power for reliability.

 

LOL I had those same questions after seeing the photos.

I don't know much about that stuff, but I'd probably use what the builders use and have used for decades with no issues.

Reliability, did you just say reliability?! I think you lost that battle the moment you decided on a China clone.

yeah, I know, the horse is dead already, but I still don't get why people continue to buy those pieces of crap......

 

Get yourself some Permatex Moto Seal. Hylomar Blue is the only sealer I have had an air leak with.

 

I've always used Yamabond 4, which I hear is actually pretty similar to the Moto Seal...both premium products...never used Hylomar Blue, that I recall.
Yamabond 4 is made specifically for sealing those 3/16" wide gasket-less mating surfaces of the case halves of most motorcycles/power sports engines...no room for error, or inferior products there.
The wide surface of that cylinder base is a cake walk to seal with YB4

 

None of the 8 365/372s I've built from kits or bought assembled came with a oring installed they don't believe in them I guess.
I just put a oring in and added motoseal inside the sleeve against the crank
This one's coming up on 7 year's no issues at all
I've never used hylomar blue joe harkness swears by it
I'm stuck in my ways and motoseal hasn't failed me in hundreds of saws and trimmer's.
I'm convinced Yama bond and Honda bond are virtually the same product
A guy in that industry told us as much
Who knows but it does work.

 

Interesting. So far I've had no air leaks and Hylomar is all I've used on, probably, 12-15 saws so far over 4 years or so. You having trouble has me thinking I'll get motoseal or yamabond going forward just to be safe. I only port for myself but I don't want a leak on my stuff anymore than if it were a customer saw.

 

I'll continue to use the Hylomar if I'm testing and pulling the cylinder frequently then switch to one of the others for the final assembly. As you know the hylomar cleans if easily.

 

Yamabond isn't terrible to remove

 

Good to know. I reached out to Dyno Joe this morning. He's still using the Hylomar blue without any failures on all his personal saws and customers saws. But, the seed has been planted in my brain now from Gregs failure. Lol