Who's making good oil filters now?

I think you are stuck in time from 20 years ago.....unless that one specific Ford 351 is some strange anomaly vs other flat tappets he has already tested. Oils have came a long ways since then when flat tappets needed special oil.

Time stamped:

 

Yup, I've heard that.
All kind of parts are being faked...its one thing if you know you are buying aftermarket, but when you think you are getting an OEM part, now that's a problem!
I bought some replacement door hinges for our Honda van, I was convinced they were OEM (except for the price was kinda low) but when I got them the packaging gave it away, it was close enough to fool most people, but as a former dealer tech I knew it was definitely not Honda packaging. They work, but not OEM quality.

 

You can call ngk with the numbers on the potential fakes and they will tell you if they are real.

 

I'll check it out, but I doubt it. I'll use what I know, because that oil hasn't changed.

 

Funny how past, outdated realities are still believed to be true or needed.

 

Ya mean like 3k oil changes ?? and bigger oil filters are better ?

 

And synthetic oils cause leaks. You can't mix synthetic and mineral oils ect, ect ect.

 

JRHAWK9 ok this is pretty new info, from 2024, just last year. I'm interested.

This, if true, and that link didn't prove anything yet, he prefaced it, but I'll wait until I am able to watch his actual test of the new sp oil vs higher zinc oil due flat tappet cams. I'm definitely interested, but I'll tell you that had I not used a higher zddp oil that my cam would've been wiped a LONG time ago. SP oils only came out in May of 2020. There's plenty of wiped lobes out there using different oils. Also. There's a lot of false information on the Internet. This guy hasn't earned my trust yet, but he talks the talk and isn't an a$$hat about it.

I'm sure everyone knew about the flat tappet cams and SP oil before this thread. Right ....lol. this video is 2 weeks old.

I do like this guy's scientific geek out about oil though.

 

Bigger filter is still better. Obviously given the same filter material. 3k oil changed was debunked a long time ago.

 

Synthetic oil doesn't cause leaks, but if it leaked on conventional oil, it'll probably leak more on synthetic.

We could go on ..

 

This is his BIO. We all should be grateful he is willing to share his knowledge. He developed Driven racing oils as well as their engine break-in oil which is used by many to break in new motors.
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I'm a Society of Tribologists and Lubrication Engineers Certified Lubrication Specialist and Oil Monitoring Analyst (I've maintained both of those for over a decade). I also worked for Joe Gibbs Racing for 12 years as their lubricant specialist. During that time, we worked with Wix Filters (one of our sponsors) to test and develop filters for our race engines. We also worked with Lubrizol and Chevron-Phillips Chemical to test and develop oils for our race cars. Following that, I was the head of R&D for Driven Racing Oil. During that time, I formulated and tested over 50 products. We also worked with Cummins, Comp Cams, Oak Ridge National Labs and General Motors on various R&D products. Those efforts are recorded in peer reviewed white papers published by SAE International and ACS Sustainable Chemistry journals. Today, I provide Tribology consulting and used oil analysis via SPEEDiagnostix.

 

yes, I saw and found that while our power has been off for an hour. Plus apparently.



Here's the whole article. But I'm really interested in the next video that he'll put out about the sp oils and flat tappet engines. I guess we need to wait. Lol. It's been 20 years, and I'm not even running that 351w at the moment.

This guy knows his stuff. I subscribed, thanks for the intel.

 

I posted links about Lake Speed in a forum before, maybe FHC. There were was a nasayer insinuating he was a corporate shill because what he said didn't line up with that individuals beliefs concerning whatever oil topic was being discussed. Lol.

 

JRHAWK9

I believe the API SP rating is soon to be replaced. Its been around for 5 years now. I think I either read or it was in a motor oil geek vid about updates coming soon.

 

Yes, 5 years for SP. May of 2020 as I mentioned before. But this video is 2 weeks old. Who's going to test with their engine? No sane person. The vr1 and rotella got a ton of us through the tough years after they realized that zddp was killing catalytic converters and lowered those additives, because mostly nobody was running those old tech engines. Also, I have never seen Brad Penn anywhere in any store. There's Lucas, mobil, Castrol, and others that have proper formulas for classic cars. Nice to see options, even if it's $10 a qt

 

Now that I have more time, I'll explain some of my experiences with oils, going back to a time before the zink got reduced and after. This is not a recommendation, just my experience. Either I got lucky on every engine I owned or the oil was still good enough in my usage to not be detrimental. So here goes...

I started using full synthetic Mobil 1 in 1992, based on multiple articles across several magazines, touting the benefits of synthetic oils over conventional oils. Once I made the switch, everything was changed over. All the vehicles, 4 stroke dirt bikes, quads, road bikes and all air cooled ope. I didn’t run a motorcycle specific or small engine specific oil Either. Automotive Mobil 1 in everything. 5w30 or 10w30 in vehicles and 15w50 in everything else. This continued all the way up until 2007 which is when I switched to amsoil products. More on that in a bit.
Through this time I had zero camshaft or any engine failures, even in the several flat tappit cam shaft engines I owned at that time. 3 were mildly warmed over V8s over 300 hp that I built myself. I know there were real issues out there as I had seen the pictures and stories from magazines and online. They just weren’t manifesting themselves in any of my engines. So, I didn't deviate until the amsoil switch.

I moved to amsoil because I had just purchased a new Deere 2520 compact diesel tractor and I wanted to use full synthetic Hydrostatic oil in it at the 50 hr service. Amsoil was the only blender making such a product, at that time, so I changed everything to amsoil. I figured if I was going to become a preferred customer to get the 25% price drop, I might as well change everything over. This was not without exhaustive research beforehand, scouring the internet for information good or bad. Places like Bob is the oil guy forum and any other place I could find amsoil discussed. After making this switch is when I started running engine specific oils. Motorcycle oil in motorcycles, small engine oil in small engines ect. This continues to this day.

Can you run an SP oil in a small engine without cam wear? Probably. Will it have the same heat tolerance that air cooled engines oils are developed for...maybe. I don't know and can't answer that. I do know these modern automotive oils are formulated for direct injected, turbocharged engines that are very power dense per cubic inch and run hot. That said, I'll continue to run small engine rated oils in my air cooled ope because its available and doesn't cost any more than the premium automotive oils I use. More importantly to me, not because of fear of the cam wear boogie man, because of the high operating temps air cooled engines run at.

 

As to the original question posted to start this thread...

I use filters with the highest efficiency rating and smallest micron rating.

 

The tractor fluid is the only thing that I still run OEM oil in. Between all of the cylinders, hoses, implements, backhoe ect I didn't believe I could ever flush it out. It would keep me up at night.

 

I adjust my my interval based on duty. My commute is very short so I won't even hit 3k.

 

Somewhat along the same thought / experience.
I owned a Monza 2+2 with the aluminum 4 cylinder engine the same as the Vega engine. I also owned a towing business. The Monza NEVER had new oil in it except from the factory. I would drain the tow trucks at 3k and put that oil in the Monza which was driven approximately 500 miles per week commuting with it so it seen a lot of used oil. That engine still ran perfectly at 285k when I had to scrap it because I hit a curb in an ice storm and bent the unibody.
I can not remember specifically but I do not remember changing the filter too many times.
This was in the 80's with Dino oil too.