Who's making good oil filters now?

Filter size can have a good deal on its capabilities and longevity. Mostly resistance to packing and the ability to stay off the bypass when cold.
I have a friend who heats with waste oil so I keep a funnel top drum at the shop. I get a bunch of filters brought to me from friends and family and I cut them all open. Quality is definitely not the same.

 

My understanding is molybdenum replaced zinc, a relatively recent improvement (10-15 years?). The claim is a regular good grade of motor oil with molybdenum is better at reducing engine wear than a high grade synthetic oil without molybdenum. Full synthetic plus molybdenum would be better yet... This applies to modern engines.

 

That makes sense. Also why it makes sense that you don't need high zddp oil for small engines like these. Now in my ski boat with a flat tappet 351w, you have to run oil with high zddp or you wipe your can lives. Pricey and a pita because reverse rotation.

 

Filters have gotten cheaper ( to manufacture) because they've gone to thinner gauge steel than they used to be. Outside of that sure. That, and if the material is the same for the filter, getting the biggest one is still the best option. That way you get more filter material and slightly more oil capacity.

 

I'll bet any API SP oil would be fine to run in that.

 

I watch all his vids plus the total seal piston ring channel, who he also works for.

 

Absolutely not. Not unless you find a zddp additive to put in with the oil change. There's many pics to prove you can't just run any SP oil. Finding that additive isn't as easy as you'd think. Nowhere around here has it.

It's easier just finding an oil that has the proper zddp levels to start. Rotella has enough. That's what I run in that as of the last number of years, but I've run Castrol made for use in flat tappet engines, and Valvoline vr1.

The GM 5.7 in my big boat is simple to find oil for. Any 10w-40 will work, but I actually bought full synthetic marine oil for it. It wasn't any more than in store, I just had to wait for Amazon to deliver it.

 

I use the VR1 in a bunch of OPE and have never had any issues. My OCI's are crazy short though.
What is different about the marine oil? Never had experience with 4 stroke boats.

 

Well, boats run typically at higher rpms for longer durations than cars. I know there's more anti corrosion additives in marine oil. But here's this quick rundown taken from the Internet.

Here's a more detailed breakdown of the differences:
1. Marine Oils:
Designed for harsh conditions:
Marine engines operate in saltwater environments, which can lead to significant corrosion and oxidation.
Higher anti-corrosive protection:
Marine oils contain more anti-corrosive additives to combat the corrosive effects of saltwater and moisture.
Anti-foaming agents:
These additives help prevent foaming in the crankcase, which can interfere with oil circulation and engine performance.
Anti-wear additives:
These protect engine components from wear and tear, especially during high-rpm operation and long periods of use at full throttle.
Specific viscosity index improvers:
These help maintain the oil's viscosity under varying temperature and operating conditions.
NMMA FC-W certification:
Many marine oils meet or exceed the National Marine Manufacturers Association's (NMMA) FC-W specification, which sets standards for marine engine oils.
Four-stroke outboard specific oils:
Some marine oils, like Yamalube 4-M, are specifically formulated for four-stroke outboards, considering the possibility of oil dilution from fuel leakage.

 

My understanding: Keep in mind viscosity index (VI) additives are not inherently "good" since VI additives wear out with usage (time/RPM). The innate VI of the base stock oil is most important since the innate VI does not change with time/RPM. Base stock VI can only be diluted. Yes, many "good" oils add lots of VI additives but the big reason for creating synthetic oil is to increase the base stock VI and add less VI additive. In the "old" days, there was "West Texas HVI" crude, i.e. high viscosity index, but the fields declined while the price of the HVI crude went up. Motor oil is messy because a low VI oil can still be called "synthetic". The lower the pour point temperature at a given rated viscosity would indicate a better base stock, i.e. less VI additive.

 

We were on the lake all day. Guy back a while ago.

It's still hot

 

Tomorrow also looks like a joy

 

I've been told to use Motorcraft in my Fords so that's what they are. Been going to Amazon and getting 12 packs so I always have them.

 

I just was able to buy a Purolator pure1 for my truck for the oil change I'll do this week. The Ford filter was actually more expensive. Not much, but I'll take a $7 pure1 all day.

 

Careful, there are TONS of fakes being sold by the aftermarket now, especially places like Amazon n eBay! Most of the time they've done a very good job of making the filter and even the box LOOK OEM. If there is anything about it that does not 100% match what you buy from the dealer, they are fake.
And there is nobody going to warranty a blown engine from fake oil filters!
It's getting bad out there with this too, I was just reading on a truck forum that with filters especially, you are more likely to get fake than real ordering online

 

Thanks, will have to take a closer look at them. I know these are fleet pack for less than $80. The cost of the filters are nothing compared to an engine so will need to do more research.
Amazon.com: Motorcraft FL820SB12-12PK Oil Filter (Fleet Pack) : Automotive
Thanks brenndatomu

 

Spark plugs too. Especially fake NGK. They have ruined some engines because they fall apart.

 

There is also the possibility a dealer could be purchasing filters on Amazon to increase profits…just something to think about.

 

I also believe in 3,000-5,000-mile oil changes.

 

15 qts per change, 3-5k miles about every other month, pricy.