Big saw suggestions?

How about a MS660 with Cross MMWS top-end? I have not run it since it's rebuilding so only a couple of members used it at Dennis' Backwoods Savage GTG a few years ago. Needs a little fuel work and comes with an OEM carburetor to be safe. Should make a great saw.

 

I get a lot of 3-4’ diameter elm from a couple of tree services dumped in the backyard. I bought a Holzfforma G666 (stihl 660 clone) back when they were less than $300 delivered. I put a 36” bar on it. It gets the nod when I have big wood. Has been a good saw so far for what I use it for. Have had it about 5-6 years now and probably only cut a couple cords a year with it, but it always starts and has plenty of power to pull the 36 buried in dry elm. Also have a G444(stihl 440 clone) that I have had no issues with. It wears a 28” and pulls it with no problem. If I was cutting a hundred cords a year, I would go with OEM, but for what I need a big saw for the Holzfforma has been great at 20% of the cost of an OEM saw.

 

Yes, I built a MS660 clone from a kit, probably 8 years ago, and I bet I don't have 8 hrs on it yet. Which is exactly why I decided to go with a clone, I just couldn't justify the cost of a big bore saw, certainly new, or even used! And I looked, for several years! Everything was either too much $ for something that comes out just to drop a tree or two per year, or it was an antique needing who knows how much work, and so old it didn't even have a chain brake!
I got in on a group buy and was able to get the saw kit built and a 32" Forester bar/chain (don't recall chain brand) for somewhere around $280 total, IIRC.
I'm sure prices are higher now, especially with all the tariff stuff going on. I don't really see the kits so much anymore, it seems like the chineez have gotten bolder and just go ahead and sell the complete saws more so now...sure they're a different color than OEM now, but I'd bet they are the same as my kit otherwise...which I know the quality was a little spotty on some of the parts, that's why I'd probably rather build my own, so that everything can be inspected before assembly (and I did cull out some known problem clone parts for OEM)
The ones you buy complete now I'm sure are just slapped together, and if it starts, it ships. But it sure sounds like the majority of people get along with them fine.
I really would have preferred to buy a used OEM saw, rather than support the knockoffs, but like I said, I looked for one at a decent price for a couple years, which no luck. Even the ones needing work were still too high $$$, or gone within 5 minutes of posting!

 

Big cc is my suggestion. A small cc saw will certainly work. One way or the other you're going to pay something. Small cc cost your time and a big cc your $$$. I bought a 592xpg and had Huskihl port it to buck 20"-30" trees. I was using a Huskihl ported 500i. I would bet the 592 is 10-15% faster per buck than the 500i. I run that 592 5-6 days a week. Time is scarce and every little bit of savings adds up. Bigger the saw the more work it will do. Get the biggest saw you use and afford. Keep you saws big and your chain sharp.

 

Late to the party here. The 400 is my choice. I own one and love it. Running a 25" bar will take care of your large logs. Largest log I ever cut was 41" using the 400 with a 25" bar and it got it done. Soon to be obsolete. Buy one while you still can.

If you would routinely cut BIG logs then 90cc would be my suggestion. Run a Stihl MS500i and you'll smile for ear to ear!

 

go BIG, or Go Home
If you’re expecting to cut 48”, which I believe you later revised to 36” wood, I would recommend 90+cc, and I agree with avoiding the Chicrap knock offs, I can’t spend the money on those, YMMV.

Your situation may differ, but for Me, for safety and other reasons, cutting from both sides isn’t always an option, which I prefer to use a bar that will make the cut from one side anyway. I would suggest at least having a 36” bar available, and a42-44” would be better, even if you only run a 24-28” on it the majority of the time.

I have 36”(x2) 44”, 60” 72” bars for my “Team 404” (390XP, 395XP x2, and 3120XP, in the pic with the 60” mounted)



Milling this is what I bought the 72” bar for, then the neighbor ended up finding a buyer for the single stem section, but gave me everything from the split up, so the 60” 72” are still virgins, but the 36” and 44” bars have gotten a Lot of use.

On the 3120XP , the 36” bar balances Very nicely, and the 44” just a bit nose heavy, but not uncomfortably so. Yeah, I was Very Surprised at just how much nose heavier the 60” is, I expected it to be, but not nearly as much as it is, the 72” has yet to even be mounted

From what I’ve read, and the Pro’s that I have talked to the 390XP revs higher, and is the better for falling, the 395XP has more torque and larger bearings and is better for bucking. I originally wanted the 395XP( after I already had the 3120XP), but they simply weren’t available at that time, evidently out of stock between production runs, so I bought the 390XP, and it is typically the Big saw I take for firewood cutting, although a 395XP usually goes along as well, and gets some occasional exercise. The 3120XP is pretty much relegated to milling these days, but did do firewood duty on occasion, before I got the 390XP, and 395XP’s


The butt end of this one was almost 40”, and probably the LAST log of that size that I will mess with, Covid definitely affected my upper body strength, and that spruce absolutely kicked my Azz, loading those rounds into the trailer, even with a ramp gate. We used get quite a few 30-36”+ Douglas Firs, and I liked that size, more splits and less bark per round, but I’m past those days now

Definitely consider a larger saw, especially if you’re not expecting to use it for falling, in bucking, you’re only carrying the weight of the saw to the log, once you’re in the cut, the weight of the saw is on the log

Bigger and OEM saws, Buy Once, Cry Once, SMILE a Lot

Just my thoughts on my experiences and uses, your Time, Money and Back


Doug

 

You would be hard pressed to go wrong with a 394/395XP. Gregs ported 394 (listed earlier in this thread) would probably be my first choice. I have a 7900 that Kevin ported for me and it will pull/oil a 32” all day. I have a Solo 694 (90cc Dolmar) that I bought off Cole and had a chance to run it in large (40”+) swamp maple and it was pretty impressive torque wise for a stock saw. I have an 066 Stihl that I need to build, but everyone’s 066/660 that I have ran or seen run would work nicely as well.

I had a 390XP for a while and if you could find a reasonable priced one, it’s probably the route I would take given price vs. usage etc.

 

Mrxlh wrote:


I had a 390XP for a while and if you could find a reasonable priced one, it’s probably the route I would take given price vs. usage etc.


With used saws, it’s hard to make a blanket statement, there are too many variables

If considering NEW 390XP vs 395XP, unless you’re using it as a Falling saw, the New prices of the 395XP Wins Hands Down, and is rather surprising

Per Husqvarna’s Website:

390XP:
PHO. $1,349.99
24” B&C. $1,369.99
28” B&C. $1,399.99
36” B&C. $1,479.99


395XP:
PHO. $1,359.99
24” B&C. $1,379.99
28” B&C. $1,399.99
36” B&C. $1,439.99

The 390XP is only $10 less than the 395XP in either PHO, or 24” B&C, the price is Equal at 28” B&C, and surprisingly, $40 Less for the 395XP with a 36” B&C compared to the 390XP with a 36” B&C. I knew that the prices were very close, but I didn’t expect to see the 395XP w/36” B&C actually Cheaper than the 390XP

If buying New specifically for Falling, buy the 390XP

If buying for Bucking or Especially milling, buy the 395XP

When I bought my 3120XP, I was initially considering the 395XP, but there was an online seller that had the 3120XP for $1,399 shipped, which at the time was only $200 more than the best price I was able to find on a 395XP, and the idea of milling was starting to interest me, so while the 395XP is often used for milling, for the relatively small price difference, the 3120XP was a no brainer

Eventually, a 390XP, and 395XP(x2) joined the 3120XP in my collection, and the Big saws are FUN to run. Before I bought the 3120XP, “Ol Reliable” my 266XP was my “Big Saw”, but after we moved to the Mountain, our firewood use increased exponentially, and we were frequently getting into 30-36” and occasionally even larger logs, as much as I Loved Ol Reliable, I was asking more of it than it was really intended for, it was doing the job, but how much longer it would keep its well deserved nickname of Ol Reliable, was questionable. Yep I could have kept cutting that wood with that saw, but it was abusing the tool

The First log I bucked with the “Beast” was a 34” Douglas Fir, with a 36” B&C mounted, it Ripped through that Big Doug Fir, like a Rabid Beaver on Steroids , what a difference 53 cc’s makes . It was FUN times cutting 7/8 through that log, but being on the ground, I had to roll it 180*, then up cut to finish the rounds.

Yeah, Bucking is FUN with 36” mounted to 119cc, well Upcutting not so much, that Fun wore off after the third round or so, and I picked up Ol Reliable with a 24” B&C to finish my upcuts

Having the Right tools for the job not only makes it more Enjoyable, but Safer as well.

Speaking of Safety, don’t forget your PPE, Helmet w/visor, ear muffs, chaps, gloves and steel toe boots go a long ways toward safety


I know PICTURES are a prerequisite on this site, so here are a couple on Safety

This was my Wake Up call for Chaps, we were about 8 miles up a Forest Circus road, with No cell service. I was cutting on a hillside, my footing wasn’t as solid as I thought it was. Definitely could have ended very badly for Huskyman.

Surprisingly, that didn’t even touch skin, not a mark , but I bought a pair Chaps before we went cutting again. That experience also made me think about other things too. My Wife doesn’t have any trouble pulling a trailer, the diesel and 5 speed manual, not a problem either. Turning around an F350, Crew Cab Loooong Bed with a 6x12 tandem axle trailer ON a Forest Circus road, That could burn some time that could be very valuable getting back to cell service, I definitely make sure the truck and trailer are facing Out, now when we start cutting


Doug

 

I sold a 2019 390 that had a new top end on it for $750 last year. I purchased said saw from a porter for $750 3 years ago. For a saw that is going to see occasional usage, I wouldn’t spend much more than that unless buying new. I paid $750 for the Solo 694, plenty of blanket statement prices out there.

 

Used, similar hours and conditions, a 395XP will likely command a higher price than a 390XP.

New, the prices are less a consideration, than how the saw will be used


Doug

 

There’s a ported 394 for sale for $800 in this very thread…

 

Sorry, I never intended to be argumentative,

Have a Nice Day



Doug

 

With this in mind, my vote is Stihl 462. They can be had for a very reasonable price nib.

 

Had a nice afternoon with the 372. 3-4 hours from logs to this. The bigger saws really haul butt. Don’t need to dawg in, just let it eat. This is a g372xp with a 28” bar and skip chain. I only sharpened once after I touched dirt with the tip.

 

I came across this and thought of this thread.

I don't get the sparks, though

https://youtube.com/shorts/Eg1iSVUq94A?feature=shared

 

A ported 372 would eat 36” wood all day. A stock 660 would do the same, but ported is better….

 

Someone didn’t tell ai that wood doesn’t throw them?

 

How awful!!! The sounds don't even match either. Total fail!

 

Ha. Fake news

 

Im thinking its CGI/AI generated. Still pretty cool though.