2 stroke oil question to the motor guys and gals!

I believe the synthetics are better oils.
All I use now.

Have read the literature on the synthetics .
Research shows better lubrication, engines run cooler & less pollution.
I've switched to the synthetics, it is made & designed for specific uses & better performance.
Don't smoke like oil because it's designed not to burn, (less or no smoke & less air pollution & prevents spark plug fouling)

Never used Lucas, I've used the synthetic Husqy, Stihl & now am using the Amsoil ]
(bought a quart of Amsoils for chain saws & big hypo to measure it properly)

Saving lots of $$ by buying it by the quart instead of the small bottles.
$2.50 for 2.6 oz bottles. Quart of Amsoil Saber 2cycle for small engines/chain saw $9.50 (over $30 if bought in the little bottles)

 

Any good synthetic oil is good. Lucas will do the job just fine. I use maxima K2, klotz original or R50, and belray H1R with good results. Pick a oil and go with it. I would just stay on the synthetic side. If the stihl ultra is a good price don't be afraid to run it. I can't use it because it will give me a headache but it's good oil.

 

The evil 2-smoke oil threads...

There are basically two types of 2-stroke premix oils. One is for air cooled engines, which are tested and graded to JASO (Japanese Auto Std. Org.) standards. The other is for water cooled engines, and tested and graded to TCW (Two Cycle Water cooled) standards. Any oil labeled all-purpose 2-stroke oil should be avoided. There simply is no such thing. Air cooled oil (low ash) is made for burning at higher temps and water cooled oil (ashless) is made for running at lower temps.

For air cooled premix oils, there are dyno based petroleum oils, dyno-synthetic blends, and pure synthetics. In general the synthetics are better and burn cleaner, they are rated higher and are usually more expensive. JASO has ratings of FA, FB, FC, FD and FE, FA being the lowest rated and FE being the highest. Usually dyno oil rates JASO FB. Typical of these is Castrol 2T oil. Better synthetic oils are rated higher, usually FC and FD. Meaning that they lubricate better, leave less residue, and smoke less. I switched from Castrol 2T dyno rated FB to Mobil One synthetic FD oil and my saws stopped smoking, they revved slightly higher and ran better. So I use 100 synthetic oil now. Mobil One stopped selling synthetic premix oil in the US several years ago, so I switched to running ELF 2T 100% synthetic which is JASO FC rated. I get it at a motorcycle shop, which is a good place to buy better quality premix oils in larger amounts (liters and up).

Look on the back of oil bottles to find the JASO rating. If it does not have one listed, I would avoid it. Stihl sells a lot of unrated oil, as it costs money to get oil tested and rated for quality, but in my saws I want tested oil. I have found it makes a huge difference over time running saws with good 100% synthetic oils. If you are in a pinch and have no other alternative, TCW or unrated 2-stroke oil will get you by in a saw, but generally you are way better off avoiding those oils. I have never liked running synthetic blends, but they are out there. They are not as good and usually about the same price as synthetics. Also do not go with the herd on 2-stroke oil, no matter what the dealers, store clerks and other say. Get the good stuff and your saws will run better, longer and smoke a lot less.

 

I use a special blend of SAE 30 with a touch of a windshield washer fluid (the blue works best) and a little marvel mystery oil.

 

No no no... Blu Goo is the only way to go! Its paraffin blended with canola oil, camel snot and nitro-glycerin. It is designed to smell just like a Burger King grill. Smell those burgers while you cut in the woods! Watch out for bears though, they will come from miles around.

 

Camel snot is too hard to find; do you think eel snot would an acceptable substitute?

 

40-1 synthetic in all my saws,even the vintage ones.

 

Camel snot is sold in 5 gallon buckets at electrical supply stores it's the stuff ya lube wire with when pulling it.
Mule snot is sold in auto stores also known as weather stripping glue
Both are yellow , never heard of eel snot
but I aint putting any of that chit in my saw.

 

I ran some of the lucas a few years back at the recomendation of a friend. Talking to him a year later and I found out he blew up two saws so I switched. Then I ran with him one day and found out he treated his saws like crap... so I doubt his problems were oil related.

 

Eel slime? Yes, that might work. Though I have found that llama or alpaca snot works as a good substitute for camel snot, and there are lots of llamas around here. They are related to camels, and they spit as much or more.

 

Yes, actually I really think that, because I have seen many bottles of Stihl oil that do not have standards listed on them. Most of them, actually. If they do not have the specifications listed in the bottle, then I presume it is not tested. Stihl is not an oil production company, they buy oil and re-brand it. My opinion is also that their oil is not as good as a lot of other 2-stroke oils out there. It is also way more expensive than many other top quality tested oils out there, and again, if the ratings are not listed on it, why should I buy it? Because is says Stihl or becasue they are a billion dollar company? No. I prefer to buy oil from an oil company, and with the exact specifications printed right there on the bottle. That way, I know what is in it and how it will perform.

Oil threads... evil I tell you!

 

You can also get whale sperm at the auto parts. That is really the slang name for ford limited slip differential friction modifier.

 

Mike, all you had to do was ask... Would have gotten off my a$$ and gotten some for you!!!