I am getting _extremely_ tired of Stihl

Noticed the saw bogging down and failing to engage clutch all of a sudden. This was after I'd just cleaned it up and put a fresh chain on.

I go to take it apart and of course the clutch circlip flies into the saw housing never to be seen again.

I then notice that the reason my clutch isn't engaging is the entire clutch housing is full of gunk. This happened like six months ago too. What the hell?!?! At least this time the chinese pot metal flywheel didn't shear and put me out of commission for a week in peak season, like last time.

And then as I'm working I realize THE STUPID FREAKING CHAIN BRAKE IS BROKE.



I DON'T ABUSE MY SAWS. HOW IS THIS EVEN POSSIBLE?!?!

Gents I think I'm done. Absolutely had it with Stihl. Oh and because of their DeAlEr NeTwOrK I am going to be down for at least one week till I can drive an hour each way to the only dealer in my area I can get parts from.

Absolutely seething right now...

 

Don't feel bad, it not just you. I've bought several Stihl saws and it's always the same story. It ran perfect, until it didn't. Then you take the saw apart and wonder how it functioned at all with the state of the machine. If your clutch area is getting plug up with dust you probably need to sharpen more often to keep the small particles of dust down

 

Are you running Husqvarna X Guard bar oil by any chance? Last year I was seizing bar sprockets left and right on multiple saws using that stuff. Rapid gunk buildup. Once I switched back to TSC brand the problem vanished instantly.
Also I'm not sure what model Stihl you have, but there's a world of difference between having a pro saw vs. a homeowner saw.

 

I run Stihl bar oil just cos it's what is on the shelf at Ace.

I get this, and I'm definitely in the "pro" category I feel like based on where I live, but this saw is a princess. I do 999999% of my chainsaw work with my Milwaukee M18, which just works. I probably only have like 30 tanks through it. My opinion of Stihl is basically the same as my opinion of Deere at this point; works for plenty of folks but I hate it.

I'm gonna go ahead and fully repair the Stihl. From there I might keep it as a backup or put it on the classifieds here. I'll marinate on that.

In the meantime:

 

The engineers for the Deere 1 series subcompact tractors obviously never planned on doing any maintenance themselves on said models.

 

I gave up on Deere a couple years ago. I can’t speak for their farm equipment but their commercial lawn mowers have become crap.
I’ll take X Mark, Gravely, or Toro over Deere any day.

 

If your cutting firewood to sell and or huge amounts for yourself or logging you should be buying a pro saw for sure, the echo you have will hold up fine but so would a 261 or 362/400. If your cutting dead dusty wood or with a not so perfect chain you may need to clean it every few days depending on what bar oil ect. I also get saws have some design flaws that need to be worked with or worked out.

 

I don't bash on Stihls. Never owned one so I have no business doing so. I feel like both Husky and Stihl have issues with their 'price point' saws. I'm not monetarily 'well off', but looking at my stable of chainsaws wouldn't indicate that. There are certain items that if I cannot have top quality level of, I just make do without. I cannot do without chainsaws so I gotta lay out the dough. In retrospect I cannot remember a time when one of my saws let me down? Of course I have had to maintain them, but absolute failures are few and far.

I have flirted with the Echo 620's. Seems like most everyone likes them. My Echo equipment has always been good to me. Should make you a fine saw. Address the air cleaner connection...only bad thing I've seen about that chassis.

Be sure to give us a followup report on how you find the new saw once you get to know it.

 

I did a couple test cuts yesterday and was pleased with the refinement of it. Saw kinda feels like how a WRX feels to operate, if that analogy makes sense. I'll update once I run through a couple tanks of gas.

 

yeah, I've never owned a Stihl but I have nothing against them. The very first one I even ran was my 18 YO nephews 261 C-M when I was with him when he bought one this winter. He wanted a Stihl and it's the one I recommended to him.

I can say that the throttle lock on it is a bit touchier than the Husky's. Have to make sure it's fully depressed, the Husky's are a little bit more forgiving on your hand placement.

 

E mark are great mowers

 

Any ideas on what the problem is with this chain brake preventing it from working?

It cannot actuate with the handle. If I use a screwdriver I can "help" the mechanism along and that works but otherwise it's non-functional.

 

No idea how your link between the coil spring and brake band could get like that should be a stop if I remember right. That piece between the two should be about vertical not laying flat.

 

Baffled by this comment. What piece?

I ended up figuring out my issue. Basically I did everything correct but the problem is you cannot test the brake with the saw dis-assembled. The clutch drum prevents the brake band from tightening too far. Without it in place, the linkage is allowed to move into a position it cannot be moved from. What an absolutely moronic design. I can think of several ways to avoid such a situation and all of them are zero cost. How has this company been building chainsaws for 100 years???

Saw's back together and running.

 

glad you like it most people don’t test operation of a system without all the parts kinda like seeing if your cars stops without rotors. I’m starting to see you like to complain about trivial stuff. They all have flaws look at your echos air filter.

 

baffled......

 

Okay which piece on that photo do I have horizontal that should be vertical?

Because the saw is 100% operational and running.

 

Didn’t realize you tried to use something not completely assembled that’s why the part was not positioned properly. That same design a has worked for over 40 years just fine and as long as you put it all the way together before testing isn’t flawed any way really. This is 100% operating error and then the compaint after was just because. You left out part of trying without a drum in your question of what’s wrong because nothing is except you trying to check it without the parts all there than complaining about the dumb design.

 

What is the saw model?