Catalytic or Non-catalytic?

BTW the rod operates two dampers on each side of the stove, so there were two openings of that size one on each side of the stove.

 

Yessir, it's exactly for EPA.
I've had to extensively modify my stove to get it to run cool enough

 

Yes sir! Thanks for your input.

Examining the stove more closely, it does appear the area where I placed the thermometer may be designed to get a bit hotter, as it's directly below the vents.

Yesterday I managed to keep id under 800 by limiting the amount of wood, but even than with a thick bed of coles it still shot up to around 700 in that spot. Flue pipe temp was around 425.

 

See, in my line of thinking they pump way to much air into these stoves to meet emissions.
If you can't load it full it kinda defeats the point of having a big stove.
Gotta find your unregulated secondary air supplies and experiment with what % to block off to make it run right.
For my stove I ran it 100% blocked (secondary supply) for most of last year and begining of this season.
I'm now running it between 80 and 90% blocked

 

That's really good information I thought the secondaries were also regulated by the damper.

I know my stuff has an access panel on the very bottom that is supposed to bring in outside air for people that live in a pre-manufactured homes. I believe there's some slits for the knockout, that might be where the secondaries are feeding from.

 

Ok The Knockout on the bottom of nothing.

However I did find where the tubes are feeding from. On each side of the stove there is a large duct that allows air to go to the very back of the stove where there's an opening that goes to a tubes the feeds the secondaries. In this picture you can see the channel. Now to come up with a good way of blocking off some of the flow.

Any ideas? There is some room to work with.

 

Before I did anything drastic with welder ect.
I would maybe stuff that area with steel wool or aluminum foil just as an experiment to see what happened.
The junk brand of stove I have ended up having 10 unmetered air inlets.
4 bigger ones like what you have and 3 1/2" holes on each side of stove body hidden by the side jackets

 

I was thinking of just stuffing some fireproof insulation in there. I could even experiment with different diameter tubes and in the center of the insulation. I likely won't weld anything, there's not quite enough room to get in there and do that, at least I doubt I could with my mig.

 

I'm a little disappointed, but I'll get it to where I want it.

 

How'd you guys like one of the new "set burn rate" stoves...no air control at all, just load 'er up and let it rip!
Some of the cheap stove models they didn't want to spend R n D money getting them to pass the epa test so they just made em burn hot n fast...easy to pass then.

 

I'm not one for saying a product should be illegal, but these damm things are dangerous

 

Well so far my modification has certainly helped. With the stove 70% loaded up, if i closed the damper it will pretty much kill the fire, and I have more control overall.

I'll report back after a really load it up for the evening.

 

Andyshine77 looks like your mods got it tamed.

 

Now that's it's got some real heat in it, she won't fully shut down, but it's definitely tame the beast. Lol.

She's cooking right now at about 585 on the hottest spot. It's 20°f out there, that's quite cold for early November in SW Ohio.

 

And it's been sitting at the temperature for a little over an hour now, not getting cooler or hotter, I have five sticks in there.

 

Sounds like your mods got you in a sweet spot.
What's your flue temps?
You gonna stuff it full next and see how it does?
Come up with a system that you can temporarily block off the secondary ports in case of run away.

 

IMO, unless you have a 40' chimney, there is no way it could runaway at this point...

 

Looks like she is burning as it should. Pretty heavy built stoves.