Wood score dilemma- what would you do?

I’ve been behind on my wood stacks. I’ve making a big effort to focus on woods that will dry in a year like soft maple, birch, etc. so……,,,,,I’ve come upon an epic score. I took some black birch yesterday. There is a ton left, however it’s mostly oak! Good problem to have, I know. Normally I’d go wild on the oak, but want to focus on stuff I can burn reasonably well in a bit more than 12 months from now. I’ve been doing the wood long enough to know that oak is slow to dry. what do you all think about the possibility of it drying out to possibly low 20’s moisture content in about a year if split small, like 2-3 inch diameter. My drying area I would describe as “ fair”, location-wise . It’s red oak, so I know splitting should be easy.
Also, if anyone is in southeast CT, feel free to take advantage of this score. There are probably 30 to 40 trees that were taken down and in log pile form on pretty accessible yard. More than I’d ever bring to take on my own. I met the owner yesterday and house was bought knowing there was a lot of work to be done. Person is nice and she is not in hurry to get wood out of there, knowing there is a lot. Let me if interested and I can PM you the details.

 

Wow, that sucks to have to pass on.
Why not process 1 at a time and mix it it with your drier softer woods?

 

I will probably do exactly that.

 

Happy hoarding

 

Hire a log truck to take that pile of oak logs to your house .

 

You know, not a bad thought if my situation were a bit different. I need about 4 additional cords to be at max capacity. That puts me at about the 3 yr plan on my 1/2 acre lot. If I had a lot more space, I’d love to figure an easy way to transport that wood and be like 10 yrs ahead but…

 

What length do you cut to? Shorter will dry quicker too...

 

I’ve done it when I bought my first cat stove, moisture meter and realized the way grandpa always did it wasn’t going to cut it.
Split it up small and stack it in the sun.
Are these oaks that were dead when cut or alive? That makes a bit of a difference in my opinion.

Also my opinion cat stoves are the most temperamental. Not sure what your Jøtul is using?
When I had less than optimal wood I’d put cribbed stacks on each side of the stove. Burn one crib and let the other dry for 3-4 days right next to the stove. It won’t dry splits all the way through but it does dry the outer layers a good bit and that helps a lot getting the stove up to temp and happy.

 

Usually like 16”. I could be talked down to 14 though, lol

 

I say go and buck 3-4 loads of the nicest oak there, haul it home and dump it but continue to focus on other species and process the oak when you get a chance later. If those trees were green when cut, they won't be dry this season without a kiln. Don't not take advantage, but don't count on the oak for heat this winter. Next winter it won't yet be optimal, but it will be usable. Wood hoarding is a long game situation.

Edit: Just saw that space was a concern.

 

Thank for the input! I have the Jotul 550 insert.
Also my opinion cat stoves are the most temperamental. Not sure what your Jøtul is using?
When I had less than optimal wood I’d put cribbed stacks on each side of the stove. Burn one crib and let the other dry for 3-4 days right next to the stove. It won’t dry splits all the way through but it does dry the outer layers a good bit and that helps a lot getting the stove up to temp and happy.

 

Thanks. Yes, I’m set for this winter with all dry wood. It’s winter 25’-26’ I’m cutting for now.

 

Splits without bark dry faster. Split into thin “boards” 2-3” thick x 6-9” wide should dry well in a year, provided they’re stacked in ideal conditions. I split a bunch of white/red oak back in the spring and although I won’t be burning it anytime soon, I noticed the thinner heartwood splits were significantly lighter than they were 6 months ago.

 

Do you have empty racks where you can take some of the oak and stack it there until ready? Split the heartwood smaller and stack on its own as that will dry faster.

I know buzz-saw splits his oak small but don't know it he uses it the next year.

Have you taken all the one year wood yet?

I feel your pain as my space is very limited and have to pass on oak often for that reason.

 

If you don't have anything else to process, get all you can. I split small to sell (not for heating). I have NO problem getting oak, locust, etc. to dry in 12 months.

 

Never too late to prepare for upcoming years! If you have the faster drying woods ready to process then go ahead- but if you are between trees so to speak I would start on the oak. Oak for some reason where I’m at dries well within a year- I’m not sure why it takes longer in other climes. Is it southern heat? However with more humidity where I’m at you would think it would take longer. I would appreciate any insight….

 

There is about one more trips worth of one year wood still on site. It’s black birch which I’d love to have stacked for a couple yrs but one year will be fine- not splitting that stuff very big.
I will no doubt take some of the easier access Goldilocks size red oak that’s there.

 

Seeing the replies, I may grab more of the red oak. My drying location is ok- could be better could be worse. The stack are off the ground and top cover with tin roofing so, as good as I can get.

 

I give you a lot of credit Steve. Having seen your location firsthand its not the easiest spot to move and store wood. Envious of hoarders that have wide open spaces.

Id be grabbing the Goldilocks oak too. Those rounds get heavy real fast.

Best of luck and let us know how you make out.

 

Thanks Brad! The hill is a pain but ive gotten used to it. In the last few years I stopped using the pallets and built dedicated wood racks shimmed up by old paver stones to make them level. I have been doing the actually processing in the driveway ( I keep the splitter in the garage) and then bring the splits down the hill using the lawn tractor.