So, I mentioned this in another thread and it was suggested that I redo the cut. Here are a couple pics to show what I screwed up. I'm hoping this will help someone show me the best way to fix it....if possible. Maybe it will help someone else as well. This is in the middle of the woods, so extremely unlikely it will fall on anyone but me,....so there's that. The notch is in the direction of lean. Flame suit on.
The back cut is just a little too low is all... Why didn't you just finish it? Is the top hung up? If not, a light breeze could cause you some trouble... When the tree commits to falling, step back... Can you just bang a couple wedges it the back cut and get it to commit??
If it's in the middle of nowhere where a mis-directed fall won't hurt anything other than pride.... I'd think about wedging it. I would not just go sticking a saw back into that cut however. Also you could just re-notch it a bit higher, go again, and burn the evidence.
Wedges. If you had to fight a slight back lean & wedges just aren't doing it. I have on occasion used the wedge feature of my port-a-power. (Lower left corner of picture.) The hydraulic pump will spread the tip creating a lift helping the tree to go against the back lean. (You will need to click on the photo to fully see the wedge attachment.)
It is nearing deer season... I hope some misguided deer hunter don't try to put a stand in that tree... Prolly better get it on the ground soon... Oh, and don't worry Dave... I've seen WAY worse stumps than that...
Checked today after some good wind. It's still standing, but the back cut has opened up a little. I quit cutting thinking the tree might want to kick back. No real good way to do a rope a dope on the tree, since the path is through some trees and a bit away. I need some wedges anyway, so I'm leaning that way. This tree split and fell over about 16' up......leaning away from the point of pic.
Not that it would stop some, but if they tried getting in that tree, they'd not only be kinda goofy...they'd be trespassing. Oh, and I've done worse than this.
Dave, after seeing the size of the tree, I'd simply finish the cut you have. If it were larger I would not advise that though. And naturally, a couple wedges might put it over with just a couple taps of the hammer.
Is the broken top hung up? That makes it a bit different. It does look like it wants to go now though. I would wedge it and run. I would also consider using a big bow saw on it if I had to cut any more. So I could see and hear what is going on and not have a running saw in my hands if things go bad.
It's only about a 12" Maple...not big. Not hung up on the other end. I'll see about getting a couple wedges....best deal on those? Bailey's?
You probably already know this, but if it has opened a little already and has a broken top in it, you already have compression on the front and tension on the back of the hinge... When you go to tap a wedge in the back, be sure you stay out of the action zone on the back side just in case.. Would suck to get jawed by a barber chaired stick..
No big deal, put some wedges to it. Best price on wedges is Harbor Freight, $3.99 http://www.harborfreight.com/felling-wedge-69539.html If you have a store, no shipping. Lots of coupons around, save even more.
Which is what kept me from finishing the back cut, since it went into the face cut. No hinge. I didn't want it setting down on the bar or falling backward. I wasn't sure what it might do w/o a hinge. I'm still learning....sometimes the hard way.
Just read your post about being afraid to finish the back cut. Move up about 3inches and make a new back cut. But I don't want to tell you to do something that scares you. What ever you do make sure you have a clear escape route if needed and keep a good eye on what is going on.
