Just remember tap tap tap, not big long grind down or you will burn the cutters. The pink wheel on there as well as the ruby red Oregons are vitrified wheels. You can get Resin bond wheels which are softer and cooler running but are consumed faster.
Nope not Diamond, CBN or ABN yes. Personally I was not impressed by the one I tried many years back. At the time it was $200 investment. They are under a $100 now. With Oregon charging around $25/wheel and others close behind I might have to. Mole Mab, Firestorm ( vitrified) and BMP (resinoid) run $9-15 ea. for the common 5.75"dia. w/ 22mm or7/8" arbours.
Cool, got my shipping notice today thanks for the heads up. Can these also be set to grind the rakers down
It can be done, but I think a file held on an angle so as to not create a flat top depth gauge is a better choice. If you do not have a depth gauge get one ( couple bucks) If the depth gauges are all over the place you could balance them out some with the grinder. Bit of a skill factor involved though also hard on the wheel.
Get a 1/4" wheel for rakers. I do rakers all the time without creating flat-topped rakers. The key is dressing a wheel to the proper shape and only using it for rakers. Check it out. Also Stihl sells this little gizmo that shows the proper shape for the wheel edge. For both cutters and rakers.
You could do the diamond cutter but the easiest way is to start with a 10 Deg angle on the wheel and after a couple hundred links, the wheel will take a rounded shape. The key is to always hit the raker with the same spot on the wheel. I batch process, do cutters on every loop in the batch and then setup for rakers and do each loop again.
According to the manual ,the 1/4" wheel that comes with the grinder is intended to be dressed to shape with the stone to do the rakers. According to the parts list it comes with a gauge to shape the wheel for the cutters but, I don't think it has the gage for the rakers The manual isn't very good, I suggest you down load the manual for the Oregon 510A that is basically the same Hay that's cool ,you ordered one also If you have never used a chain grinder before this is a good vid Good pics, great info , thanks MM Thanks, did you do any ,mods, tweeking, smoothing rough parts or anything on your TT
Im still using the stock wheels, but I did "dress" them to my liking. My Oregon came with a "Kit" (stone, guide as MM showed, and a bar and rail measuring tool/groove cleaner). Dress the wheel and dress it often. It will load up and not cut and cool as well when clogged up.
A 1/4" Molemab wheel is a better choice than the Oregon or Fireball for depth gauges, it is harder and will hold form better. Also because it is a harder it is less grabby than the other 2 when attempting depth gauge adjustment. As the depth gauges will be off center of the wheel be very careful. Units with single direction grinding will want to rip one set of the depth gauges out of the chain vise due to the angle of attack. Might have better luck reversing chain and wheel for one side. ( sorry I forget which it is as I use a very old bidirectional grinder just for depth gauges ) It is for this reason I suggested the file approach. Before you shift the vise front to back& left to right brushoff the residual grinding dust. It is an Alum alloy & the grinding dust will play havoc with it underneath in the rocker area as there are 2 steel balls and springs to give a positive snap into position. Grinding dust down in there will in time make a mess of the detents. I have worn one these out, rebuilt it and wore it out again. ( I do an awful lot of chains in a year commercially)
Here is a pic I got a bit messed up here but here is my current set up for chains. A pair of 511ax units one set for each side of cutters and the very old Foley-Bellsaw unit for depth gauges. The original chain vise was shot so made some new parts for it, got to work on the head travel portion yet as its a bit sloppy as far as the depth stop function, hinge is good so it is likely worn threads . This faster for me , to not have swing the vise around to grind the other set of cutters just move to other unit. Lot less wear on the vise base system, something I wore out twice on the previous unit as well as a drive motor. I have around 20+ chains to do today. That,s about 6" of 3/8x50 pitch chains hanging on the stand in front of the green unit
