I came across this video because I do 'crop tree release' (CTR) on my woodlot for timber stand improvement (TSI). The reason for posting is that this fellow is using a long bar and look at how adept he is and how it saves his back. I am always ever-vigilant about chainsaw weight, I have a bad back, but his use of this long bar is indicative of how not bending over so much is good! I don't know what size bar he has on or what size saw. In comments, he mentions liking a 362 and a 25-inch bar but this bar is longer than that seems to me. Of course, if I was going to buy a 362, I wouldn't, I'd buy a 400. But I have one already!
I like this guy's channel and his dry sense of humor. It seems a lot of fellers on the west coast like long bars no matter what they're doing - dropping a fir or limbing one already on the ground. Throw out your back bending over to buck logs down low, or throw it out in the standing position trying to leverage a long bar, then hit dirt and sharpen twice the amount of teeth to correct it. Pros and cons like anything. Sure there's some truth to BBR's "stand up and buck" doctrine. Personally I don't like using more bar than necessary but that's just me. Maybe when I get older that'll change.
I am up in the air there are pros and cons like Eric said the best I can say with a long bar run a full skip chain and see what works best for you
I've been wanting to get a 28" bar for my 372xp, 24" on it now so I don't think it'll help tons but we'll see.
I still prefer dulling as few teeth as possible. Lighter = more saw control and less fatigue=less chain grounding. Even if you don’t ground it there is typical bark grit dulling. I will get on one knee, or both if my lower back has had enough. None of it may matter to grinders, but I’ll choose 66 over 105 any day on 14” logs. 32+ only gets used if absolutely necessary and will drop down in bar size for noodling. Time spent sharpening is less time producing.
I have a 28" and 20" bar for my 7310. I honestly prefer to 20" unless I need the 28". The saw just becomes unwieldy, it doesnt seem to cut as fast, and its a helluv alot more teeth to sharpen. Chains are also alot more expensive.
I start with a big saw and after 8-10 hours and having the big work done, am more than happy to stick the 660 or 362 in the pickup and move to the 180.
I've owned a 28" bar for a year now and it's still spanky new thankfully. Got a saw to pull one, so figured it'd be good to have if needed. Saw is wearing a 24 currently. My Jonsered has been wearing a 24 for a little while now and will likely get the 20 back on it soon. I take no issue with long bar users...it's personal preference. You gotta have enough saw to run a 28 or 32, which means you gotta carry around extra weight to use one. In reference to a 50cc with an 18 or 20 on it. I try to only bring as much saw as is necessary for the work. Seems that long bars and port jobs are a match made in heaven. Mid sized saw chassis with big saw power to pull 105+DL's
For most of my life I cut with a 16" bar so I don't like using more bar than needed, but that's just me. To me schlepping around a saw with a longer bar adds to the clumsy factor thus likely leading to accidents. A lot of the wood I cut is in major tangles on hilly terrain so control is important. Seems lugging a longer bar around would "weigh" on ones back. Just my 2c.
As someone with a plethora of spine surgeries / problems, any additional weight that extends farther away from your body is extra stress on your back and neck. I used 12", 14" and 16" bars exclusively until this year. I'm able to use an 18" on my 241 because of the light weight Oregon speed cut bar and narrow kerf .325 Stihl 23RS chain. Its lighter than the factory 16" 3/8 pico set-up and only a few ounces heavier than a Stihl 16" E light bar. I do wish Stihl offered an 18" light bar in their small mount. Only 12, 14 and 16 are available.
Id have to use a 261 bar and change out the bar stud. Get different chains as I'm sure the DL count is different between the two mount patterns.
I agree with you running longer bars do add to the safety factor feet/calfs. Now if I didn’t need longer bars I would not have them nor would I need a 592 The trees I get for firewood are 95% city trees and we all know how big they can get I just thought about it Brad I still would of bought the 592
My biggest CC saw I'd the 500i @ 79cc's. I've run it with a 36 bar with full skip chain. Rarae o have top use it. Also have 25 & 28 bars for the bigger CC saws. I been tempted by good deals on a Stihl 066/660/661 @ 92 cc's but it would seldom get used.
I seldom use mine, and I’ll eventually trade away the 084. I don’t enjoy cutting with it… never have. It can’t do anything a 661 won’t with a 36” bar.
We don’t cut first groth trees so I feel the the 088 and the 3120xp are best used on a mill no days Like you said chud there is nothing a 661 can’t do that you would need the 088 Same thing with the husky 395/592 for what these two can do you really don’t need a 3120xp
