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Basement chimney install question

Discussion in 'Modern EPA Stoves and Fireplaces' started by Elm-er Fudd, Jan 13, 2024.

  1. Elm-er Fudd

    Elm-er Fudd

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    I am going to install a 2nd stove in the basement. Running the stove on the main floor makes the basement so cold that we never go down there in the winter. Wanting to put a stove down there for weekend football and movies. Chimney will have to go out through the basement wall. There is only about 8” of basement wall that is above the concrete patio where the pipe will exit, so if I install a cleaout T it will be below ground level outside. I have a Buddy that is a TIG welding freak and am thinking about having him make me an assembly out of 6” heavy stainless pipe with 2 45’s to go through the wall. Connect regular stovepipe on the inside and double wall insulated outside from ground level on up to the top. Should still be able to get the chimney brush through the 2 45’s and just eliminate the clean out T. Would seal anound the pipe through the wall with hydraulic cement. Anyone see any issues with this plan or have any better suggestions? There is only one place in the basement that I can put the stove and no way to go straight up through the main floor and out the roof. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
     
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  2. Chvymn99

    Chvymn99 Moderator

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    :popcorn:.... I've thinking about this for the last few years.... But after this round of cold air, I started looking at stuff today while killing time... I know where I'd want to put it for aesthetics... Will be curious what others say...
     
  3. wildwest

    wildwest Moderator

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    Will you be sweeping bottom up or top down? Top down could be an issue if you get a cat stove. Either way there's many here with main floor stove and another in the basement.
     
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  4. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    I ran double wall stainless through my block foundation and have the T very close to the ground but just enough to get a box under to catch droppings during sweeps. Used a Hilti hammer drill to make a series of holes, then used the expanding fireblock insulation to fill block and voids. The horizontal piece is a 3’er and my set-up pulls strong. I think I’m just under 30’ of stack.
     
  5. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    Don't do it...you are making a creosote factory due to the masonry sucking the heat out of the pipe, BTDT, it'll never warm up enough to not condense there.
    What I did on one install that sounds a lot like yours, was to dig down to the level that things needed to be, then installed a galvanized window well...there is just enough room to get the cap off the cleanout, and a pan under it to catch the sweepins.
    I drilled a hole through the wall and just mortared a section of doublewall insulated SS chimney pipe right into the wall.
     
  6. Elm-er Fudd

    Elm-er Fudd

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    Thanks I think that is probably what I will end up doing. Probably build a chase up to the eave with a side door to access the clean out cap. Will probably have to stand on my head to remove the cap but will get it figured out. I figured that the stainless pipe in direct contact with the concrete might cause some issues…thanks for confirming.
     
  7. Elm-er Fudd

    Elm-er Fudd

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    Already have the stove. It is just a small, Cheap, pleasant hearth 1200. It is a reburn stove. Didn’t want to spend a lot on a stove that will on be used on weekends and the basement is only about 850 sq ft. Will follow brenndatomu’s advice and do it the right way.
     
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  8. Elm-er Fudd

    Elm-er Fudd

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    My wall is poured concrete. I will do basically the same as you did to cut the hole. I have a big rotary hammer/demolition hammer. Will drill 3/4 “ holes all around the outside outline for the pipe then switch to the chisel bit to take the middle out. Set the double wall stainless and seal around it with hydraulic cement.
     
  9. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    I'd use much smaller, even if you have to buy a bit...that's a lot of drilling...3/4 would take forever...I used 1/4 or 3/8" IIRC
     
  10. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    X2. :yes:
     
  11. Elm-er Fudd

    Elm-er Fudd

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    The hammer I have will drill through 12” of concrete in about 30 seconds. It is rated for a 1-9/16 SDS max bit or a 5” coring bit. 3/4”x 18” is the smallest bit I have for it.
     
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  12. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    That's some soft concrete! :startled:
    I'm familiar with all the big boy toys...never seen anyone cut or drill 12" in 30 seconds, not even close...heck, even our 36" walk behind street cutter won't do that!
     
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  13. Eckie

    Eckie

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    Maybe you're looking at it the wrong way. Maybe he's just got a bad-azz hammer! :D :rofl: :lol:
     
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