AS users: I have an issue that needs a quick temporary (kind-of-emergency) fix. We're in a very cold snap here. -30F wind chills that will go on for at least 4 days, and high winds. I have to run our stove (no other options in our home) but I have a new smoke leak coming from the back side of the top lid. I've tried "squishing" the gasket but it just can't meet the lid. The leak is there because 6 years ago I over-fired the stove, causing the lid to curve up toward the center. I can replace the lid of course, but up till now I've just compensated by installing the gasket to meet the higher point in the center of the lid. Well, I did a rough job this year apparently and it's now evident at the most inconvenient time. So, I've been trying to think outside the box. For those of you with an AS stove, the gasket kit from Woodstock comes with a thin grey gasket with adhesive backing. It's meant for the flue collar and block-off plate on the back of the stove. Could I use that to just fill that gap temporarily? Any better ideas that can be done without letting the stove cool down too much? I also have Rockwool R-15 insulation. Would a little piece of that to fill the gap stand up to the temps in the stove? I'll be replacing the gasket when it warms up enough, and will likely be ordering a lid replacement because installing the gasket in a curve has finally driven me crazy.
I think that is about your only option without leaving the stove cool down much. I had one with a bow in it, what I did was to make a "silicone gasket"...I bought the highest temp red silicone that I could find, (650*F IIRC) and smeared it all over my gasket heavily...cut strips of tinfoil to apply to the silicone, then shut the door, latching the door loosely...after the silicone cured fully (a day or two) I peeled the foil off that would come off, some is permanently part of the gasket now, but can only be seen with the door open...this repair totally solved the leak issues, its been a year or more now, still looks like day one. You might could try wax paper instead of foil...maybe it would peel off after the silicone is dry? This silicone coated gasket trick is used by some OEMs now too...that's where I got the idea to try it.
Thank you both! Just needed to make sure my instincts were right about this. Tried to look up some Rockwool info-- I guess the binder (phenol formaldehyde sometimes??) can burn out above 450F, which, wouldn't matter for this purpose except that it might not be great to have vaporize in the house... I'll try one of these options when the stove isn't so hot this afternoon.
This took me a hot second to understand, but this is a really good idea. I wouldn't have to tear up the existing gasket which is pretty new. Do you think I could apply it while the stove is still warm or would it set up too quick? Do you have to let it cure cold?
If you have a stove shop nearby, see if they will give you a few pieces of scrap ceramic wool blanket material...its what they use to insulate chimney liners with, and also used inside stoves sometimes too...that would work for temporary, if you are worried about the rockwool.
I used to have some! I threw it out when it got a little dirty-- a lesson in woodstove accessories hoarding. It would have worked well, though.
Ended up using the thin flue gasket right on top of the existing white gasket. Then I fiddled with the "squish" for a good thirty minutes and did the paper test until it was tight everywhere. I just needed more height in some places than the standard gasket could give me. It's a little narrow compared to the standard, but fine. I've been sniffing every inch of that lid gasket for the last half hour, and have caught a few vague smoke-like smells. I can probably fix that on the next fire. Problem solved for the duration of the now -40F (!) storm. And...I'm ordering a replacement lid.
I too have some smoke spilage from a place in my AS lid gasket. I've tried squishing it up and working it etc, but that hasn't done much. I called WS last week and ordered a spare cat and gasket package. I mentioned to Lauren about .y spillage, she said she'd throw in an extra lid gasket on them. She said when she puts her lid down trying to seat it good against the gasket, she puts all her weight on it. She also mentioned doing the paper test. I'm wondering how you do that on the back part of the lid, where the joint is against the rest of the stove? That lid just sitting on a gasket like that doesn't seem like the best design....
It's not a fast job. I use a narrow 1 inch wide strip of paper to test because the variation can change pretty quickly when you're trying to find a leak or two. Take the lid off and place the paper where you want it along the back edge. Put the lid back down in place and pull on the strip. Don't pull it out completely, just see if it's loose and make a mental note. Lift from the left or right side of the lid to move the paper across in one or two-inch increments until you've tested the full back side. Probably did this three or four times making "squish/squash" adjustments until it was tight the full length. It's not that tedious with a fresh gasket and a flat lid, but it's still a tricky design to test the back. All of my adjustments had to amount to between 1/8th and 1/16th of an inch. It's tiny but makes a huge difference. (Also, maybe this is obvious, but keep the bypass closed when you do this job. I had it open absentmindedly once with coals in the stove...kind of defeats the goal of not smoking up your house.)
Oh that sounds horrible. Seems like there'd be a better way. I figured you'd have to do it with a cold stove.
I had the same issue after the first year in with my AS. What I did because it was about that cold was to grab some rock wool insulation and just fold over a bit until it fit nice. I dropped a big rock on top of the lid close to the front. Worked fine for a couple weeks or so. The gasket went bad again the next spring, so I used a welding blanket cut up till I moved the stove into the garage as a trash burner. Edit: Not rock wool. I'm a bone head.
Just FYI, rock wool can take very high temps, but, it cannot take direct exposure to flame, unlike ceramic fiber insulation
