New Install of Blaze King King 40 KE Stove on Six Inch Flue and Chimney

Gotcha! Good information!

 

Then you have something else going on. I have no problems running my non cat low and slow and clean. I’ve been doing a consistent 12 hour reload schedule pretty much all season so far.

 

What stove do you have? Some tube stoves can do "low n slow" better than others...the NC30 isn't one of them.

 

I have a Jotul F45. I’ve been really impressed with it the last couple years. Long burns, good control and clean glass. I did tweak it a bit but won’t get into that in this thread. PE has some good non cats as well, my neighbor has a Super 27 that can go 12 hour reloads.

 

I can easily get 12 hour burns and relight almost instantly from the coals. The problem I have is I have to run the stove very hot in the first 2-3 hours of the burn. If I shut the air down before the whole load gets to burning well it will kill the flames and I have had several occasions where the stove will fill with smoke and then ignite and back-puff smoke into the house. Has actually scared the crap out of me a couple of times. If I let the whole load get to burning well, and charred, and then shut the air down, (10-15 minutes)the secondaries produce way too much heat for the first couple of hours. Works ok at bedtime, heat the living room up to about 90 and the bedrooms stay comfortable all night.

 

Great write up. I’ll be following along because I’ve been interested in the BK stoves. My Jotul F500 throws good heat, but it likes to be fed every 3 hours.

I have it in my basement, the chimney is on an external wall, is masonry with a 6” ss liner. From the thimble to the cap is 25 feet. It draws well.



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If you don’t have a manual stove pipe dper, you should try it. Get a manometer also…Dwyer Mark II Model 25…and know what your draft is rather than guess…<$55.

 

Not to sound stupid.... But what do you do with it once you get it? I looked it up...I'm assuming there's some kind of probe that hooks to it and has to go in the pipe?

 

I don't have one of those meters, so my install on a 6" pipe was a pure test. Turns out, I was fine and everything seems to be working perfectly. Almost too perfectly.

My question is, let's say I purchased one of those meters, where would I find the numbers related to my BK 40 that would tell me what I "need" to be drawing for that stove to perform at what they consider optimal. Otherwise, I'd be reading an output from the meter with no idea how it relates to my stove.

 

Are you considering a BK with a 6" exit or the BK 40 with the 8"?

 

You have to drill into the stove pipe to get a sample tube in there...many/most people DIY something out of copper tubing or brake line...I just drilled a hole and stuck the tube in, some people get fancy and do it with mechanically attached or threaded fittings, whatever floats your boat. The Dwyer 25 comes with rubber tubing that can be used for all but the last foot or two into the pipe.

-0.04 to -0.06" WC is a common spec amongst wood burners, some go up (down) to -0.08" WC, I don't know that I've ever seen higher than that for a factory spec.

 

Ok, thanks for the info!

 

I second what Hoytman said.Install a pipe damper and increase your heat times.

 

Been looking at the BK 40, but I have a 6 in. liner.

 

Blaze King probably provides proper draft parameters in their manual, if not a quick phone call to BK would likely yield an answer.

Pyro…if you install a manometer and you find out your stoves operating parameters (inches of water column for proper draft from BK) you will instantly know (just by looking at the numbers on the gauge comparing with what BK provides) if that 2” reduction of chimney pipe either was a benefit or a detriment to you, depending how one views a benefit or a detriment.

To keep this simple an 8” insulated pipe should draft better than the same size uninsulated.

Two questions remain:

-Did the 2” chimney pipe (insulated) increase the draft even more, or did it decrease the draft (by the numbers)?

-Did the 2” chimney pipe (insulated) increase the stove’s performance, or did it decrease the stove’s performance overall?

The numbers will prove what happened when/if he gets a manometer.

In the meantime, anyone care to take a guess whether it helped or hurt the numbers?
(Obviously, it is working now, but that doesn’t answer if the total effect increased or decreased total performance.)

 

I've played around with this stuff a lil, I'm pretty sure it will have draft on the high end when operating, and very low numbers when the door is open, which is normal, but it will be even lower than a 8" pipe would have, due to its roughly 50% reduction in capacity.

 

Do you mean lower numbers than the 8” pipe when the door is open?

 

I agree with draft on the high end when operating and predict the need for manual stove pipe damper…which I always recommend anyway, regardless.

I also predict higher low numbers (than an 8”pipe) when tending a warm stove when door is open. It’s working still because I haven’t seen any complaints of smoke rolling into the room.

I also agree with Highbeam (I think he said it) that the only place you might see a detriment is on total output high end performance…and it’s yet to be seen if the stove would ever even need to run that hard in this person’s house. We need some seriously cold weather to determine this.

 

Yes...as in less "suction" (I know that is incorrect terminology) which is why the smoke rollout is more of an issue on a 6" pipe.
The real issue with smoke rollout is the size of the flue vs the size of the door, the 6" pipe has almost half the capacity that the 8" does, so that's why restricting the door opening works so well to limit/stop the smoke rollout.

 

Height of chimney affects this too as well, yes? Or does that affect on a different basis/concept than what you're talking about?