New Install of Blaze King King 40 KE Stove on Six Inch Flue and Chimney

Well, "x" pounds can be associated with a cord, but since cord is volumn, pounds would have to take into account the species and moisture content.... All that seems like quite the pain in the arse to worry about, to me...

 

Years ago, I created a conversion spreadsheet where I could punch in any number of cords of wood, it would insert the number of BTUs for the species you chose, and then calculate what the cost for such was, based on the amount paid to buy said number of cords. It would then calculate your cost comparison for wood pellets, electric, propane, natural gas, corn, etc. All of this was actually based on a set amount of weight per cord, per species, and the amount of BTUs expected as published by the department of energy. It was a really handy, insightful little tool. So, that being said, it was really all about the weight.

 

Once you are on the 3 year plan, all the wood will be the same MC...so weight actually makes it easier. All you need to know is wood is 8500 BTU/lb then deduct the MC of the wood and the efficiency rating of your stove, equals btus to the house. So to make this simple, 8500 BTU, minus 20% MC (just for simple math) minus another 20% for stove efficiency (80% efficient stove) 8500 x .80 = 6800 x .80 = 5440 btu to the house, per lb of wood. (Again, just for example) it really makes it simple, degrees outside equals x lbs of wood. Now you do still have other characteristics of species that may come into play too (like oak and it's coaling) but to me weight makes it easy.
For you, since you have a big stove that can heat you out if it's room easily, I'd think you'd often want poplar, light enough so that you have enough pieces to burn well, but won't last so long it heats you out of the room...and yes, I'm well aware that goes against everything most wood burners would tell you. I burn a fair amount of boxelder in our whole house wood furnace for that very reason.

 

Agree with brenndatomu poplar and swamp maple will be your friend

 

That’s because you’re not thinking in terms of having a thermostat run your stove or perhaps you’ve never owned a stove with a thermostat. Hickory won’t get too hot on you because the thermostat won’t let it.
If the setting on your stove matches what you want on your in home thermometer, then you found your perfect setting…the only thing that will cause it to deviate is the outside temperature.

Now for grins…go open a window a couple inches so the house temp falls by 5-10 degrees. Once the stove stat feel’s that it should compensate and bring temperature in the house back up to where you like it. In theory that is. That IS not a theory with my coal stove with thermostat, it IS a fact. The thermostat is a marvelous thing on a stove. Once you have one on a stove you don’t ever want to be without it.

 

I wouldn’t even bother worrying about pounds. I understand it makes calculations easier, but the stat alone makes running the stove a breeze and it really doesn’t matter what species it is. It matters, but they become less important to you. Blessings of a thermostat. Enjoy!

 

I have a good mix of wood, some is aged like wine. I'm burning some red/white oak that is around 8 years css'd. I also have a mix of species in the same stack. I know all this is at least that old (some a bit older), cause I was cutting and selling before my daughter was born (2015), and this was from before then or that year (moved from the old house).

I have some red maple that is about 2 yes old, and some ash that's similar. A tiny bit of poplar that was here when we bought the place (at least 7 years old cause of how long this place was sitting).

Anywho, my point is, this wood is dry. So I'm lucky there. I agree I want more maple, ash, poplar, maybe birch (haven't tried that yet). Like you said, oak for the coals. I find myself mixing loads based on piece of oak that is big enough to give me good coals later for easier relight, and other woods to mitigate for a good enough fire, but not too much to run me out. And I know I have to get some more stack height, I imagine that will help with the reloading aspect (which plays into how much load and timing) and smoke.

Hoytman, a thermostat sounds like a great idea. Maybe on the next go round.

While this is a bit of a pain, I'm very happy to have a stove to run in case we end up like in the ice storm 2 yes ago.

Pyromaniac,.I apologize for derailing your thread.

 

While the pounds may be easy/simple for some folks, I'm not there yet in my head! I'm having to tweak and play scientist/artist/baker with my loads... It's kinda fun, and I'm still learning /figuring it out.

 

I absolutely agree with you. My wood guy once gave me a huge trailer load of Poplar just to get it out of his way. It burned great, and better yet, it was free!

 

No apologies needed here! I hope all this info helps others!!

 

I don't get much of these species, most wood guys are hung up on delivering oak, etc. because it brings a better price.

 

On a side note, my wood is three years seasoned and has been running 12-15% moisture on a fresh split test.

 

What I generally rely on is smaller, hotter fires. I think it's just better all the way around until the really bitter weather rolls through. At night, or if I'm going to be gone for 10-12 hours, is when I'll load it up and burn it midway or lower depending on outside temps.

This BK is so controllable with the self modulating thermostat, it's amazing. Just like my old stove from years ago.

 

For me, I can pretty much gauge my winter supply by the pile in my bin. I don't stack my wood, just pile it.

While heating with my outdoor wood boiler, I always figured two full bins from start of winter to the end. Was never too far off. I'm estimating one bin this year with the BK, maybe even less. Each bin holds approximately 5 cord.

 

Again, woke up to a pleasantly warm house this morning with still partially burned pieces of wood in the firebox, glowing red ready to deliver serious heat for the next several hours. I had the thermostat on the stove turned down to about a third and still plenty of heat all night. Outdoor temp was 32°, house temperature was 77°. Still no complaints.

 

Rather amazing tool eh?
I went 19 hrs on mine yesterday.
After getting the stove up to speed and set for the long haul I never even worry about the thing. It's another appliance.
When the house temps tell me its time for more heat I then have a look at the stove. Always still capable of a reload on coals.
Even if it takes 30-40minutes to relight the new load. I am patient.
Have fun.

 

Exactly! That's what I am finding as well. I just said to my wife last night, it's kind of weird not even thinking about putting wood in the stove. It was still plenty warm in the house so nothing I was even concerned about. It's a huge switch from the Hearthstone Heritage! The Heritage would have been fantastic in a smaller setting, nothing against the stove, it just did not fit my application.

 

Sounds like it’s working nicely. Too bad there’s no real good cold weather in the near future to test this stove. I’d like to hear how a full load on high will work on this 6” chimney. I’m thinking the lower settings should be fine with it but when it’s really cranking I wonder if the exhaust will be big enough. You may never need that higher setting though?

I think the firewood weight thing is used mostly by manufacturers during the testing sessions to figure out BTU’s, efficiency ect.

Just for chits and giggles I weighed my 6 split load of Aspen for my next load, came in at 28lbs. I think my Aspen grows a little more dense up here with the very sandy well draining soil. No wonder I can get 12+ hour burn out of it. Similar sized 6 splits of Red Oak I got 29.4 lbs.

 

I can see why she liked the Heritage, very nice stove. But in the end, we all want to stay warm. Glad to read of your success. I think I might have went back to that salesman and see what he could do to remedy his poor advice.

 

Wow, I honestly would not have expected those kind of weights from Aspen. Pretty impressive!