Would it be better to shorten the horizontal piece of the T and use double wall stove pipe the whole way to the 90 degree (down to stove)? The insulation kit was 25' and I think we only need 20', fingers crossed we have extra. If not it'll be rockwool. Also found this pic. I'm going to have to check on clean out access. edit: and should we use a high temp sealant in the double wall stove pipe to T connection?
I'd use as much doublewall stovepipe as much possible, but only after it comes out of the thimble...reason being is that you won't be able to secure it to the snout if its not outside the thimble...that, and doublewall stovepipe is meant to be air cooled, and it would not be inside the thimble, so advantage lost. Just cut a piece of that extra liner insulation and slide it on the snout after its in...and place some rockwool around the pipe under the wall trim cover too. As far as using sealer...never heard of that being done...no reason to really, things seal up pretty well as is. No sealer I know of (other that furnace cement) will have a high enough temp rating...and furnace cement will just fall off after a while in this application anyways. If its possible to get cleanout access, that's great, but there are plenty of liners out there that don't have it...just screw the cleanout cap fast (with SS screws) and let it fill up...then you just keep the tee cleaned out as best possible...if the snout is not too long you may be able to reach into the snout and clean the tee "sump" out that way...which it is best to keep it cleaned out, it gives soot/creosote flakes somewhere to accumulate during the burn season without blocking the pipe off...but with dry wood and proper burn techniques there shouldnt be that much there.
Greatly appreciate the advice Dave. This should get us pretty far along. Will get that insulated liner and T in and go from there with buying pipe parts.
No progress on the chimney liner but my dad needs my splitter so today we split some of Andrews rounds and loaded it up to take to dad. We also split the front two rows in this pic. And some of the rounds I quartered. Fiskars worked real well on most of them.
Finally got the call to install the liner. He picked a good day too. At this point I realize the company I bought the insulation kit from did not send the metal sock/sleeve to protect the foil side. This is his wood stove chimney. Insulation glued and taped. Attached the T and Andrew had some wire for fence tying so we coiled it up and down 3 times, taping at spots to keep it secure. Got it up on the roof, tried to get it down in and realized it was way too big. Had to remove the wire and the insulation around the T clamp. After that it fit, kinda. We kept getting stuck at misaligned terracotta liner. Took some finesse but we finally got there. So close in this pic. You can see the T strap for the horizontal piece. Went inside and took a pic. T still hitting liner. Had to cut a piece of metal he had laying around to shimmy from below while he pushed up top. But finally!! Can you tell he’s a welder by the bead of sealant? Lol He had previous plans so we quit here. Need to stuff w Rockwool yet. Need to get the piece to connect here, he has a good 90 and down pipe I believe.
Were you the ladder guy? PITA installing those. Only a couple i have over the years. A little finagling and finesse and you got it done. Rather rewarding if may say so. Common for excess mortar ooze on the tile liner joints and'or to be slightly offset.
Yep. I was on the extension ladder and Andrew stood on the green one which was up on the roof. When we hit the first offset, we started worrying. When I hit the second one (48" down) and I remember you offered giving advice. I was standing on that roof thinking about calling you, lol. We had it in and out probably 4-5 times. The whole time I'm thinking why in thee he11 can't they taper the very bottom of that T a little!
I meant to ask last week if this had ever been completed...got my answer now! Good job guys...putting liners in a tight chimney like that is always a real PITA!
Dave, I'm in the process of planning this final "through the wall" connection and I recall your advise of using extra liner. We did cut a section off plenty long to use here: Doing some research I see these: What's your thoughts on using it? I'm shooting for a clean install here, something that is easy to clean. He's going to have to remove inside pipe regularly to vacuum/clean any creosote after sweeping. Here's a pic of it connecting to liner but I think if it's long enough, we could go straight into the snout, of course packing Rockwool around the gap.
I'd really try to not use flex there. What I was referring to earlier was using some of the liner insulation around the pipe/through the wall...and another layer of it (or some rockwool) between the crock and the wood paneling on the wall there. Just make sure to use stainless pipe and hardware, otherwise you may get to replace it in a couple years.
Glad I got clarification. These adapters have non crimped ends so I guess I'd just have to crimp it and apply stove cement on install? They are SS.
I swear by plastic pallets! I found a place that was giving them away free and I loaded up. Was able to give my son a couple. Wood is a pain when they deteriorate.
Yes, and don't forget, crimps down. (toward stove) You can use furnace cement if you'd like, but chances are it will crack and fall out long term, no harm no foul though...better off just trying to get a nice snug fit IMO. You could wrap the seam(s) with foil tape, just until they seal themselves up with soot/creo (the adhesive on the tape will eventually fail from the high temps)
