Shortening up cycle time on a splitter.

I have a Husky 22 ton and I seen guys doing some creative things with shortening up the throw/cycle distance with a lever that stops the travel of the wedge. I was wondering if anyone has tried putting a block of some sort on the stop end (1.5 inch steel part) that would shorten the travel distance instead. Would have to be fabbed from heavy steel of course and removable.
Anyone try this route?

 

You are better off making a small trip lever/arm that kicks the hydraulic control back to neutral. I have seen a few fabbed up that are adjustable. One guy used a string and that worked too.

 

If the goal is to have a faster splitter, I don't see how 1.5" less of travel distance will make any noticeable difference. Most hydraulic splitters can be stopped anywhere in the cycle. You could manually stop it 2", 6", 10" etc. before the end of the stroke if you wanted. Lots of people do this with easy splitting wood to save time. If you're referring to an auto cycle type of detent, I think I'd caution against it. Could void the warranty and cause potential injury.

My recommendation would be to sell it and look for a faster machine. I personally recommend SuperSplit.

 

I thought they made a donut or so for limiting the return and in my search looky what I found lol
Splitter return stop block or other Ideas ?
I like the switch idea, myself I stop the auto return when it is half way since I mostly split 16"
If I was making money off it, sure the seconds add up thru a course of the day.
Yet again if it was a true job, I wouldn't waste too much time on the residential splitters and invest into a faster commercial one asap.

 

If you are thinking about something placed as a spacer between the cylinder and the wedge/pusher you have to be sure that the attachment to the rod can withstand the stress of being pulled. Most are only engineered for compression.

 

Had one. Took it off. It was just OK

 

I'm guessing he has a similar situation as me, when I split 16" for my parents. My splitter can take up to 25" and on the return stroke, it would be nice to auto stop the wedge at 18" so it doesn't fully detract. I'm usually caught picking up pieces and it goes all the way back. It would be a big time saver.

 

I think T.Jeff Veal had a block he had on his splitter?

 

Barcroftb has a splitter that has an impressive cycle time....

 

Yes this is something to keep in mind.

Cylinder is really designed to push and not pull.
I have seen where someone put a sleeve on the rod to limit travel on return stroke and it ripped the end of the rod and the nut off inside the cylinder.
Not saying it won't work but some homework might be a good idea.

 

Not sure what the specs are on your splitter, but depending on what they are exactly, there are things that can be done to speed the cycle time up "the right way" without buying a new splitter. Many of those splitters have a 6.5 hp engine and a 11 GPM pump...with 6.5 HP you can swap out to a 13 GPM pump for about $135 or so, that gains you a little speed...and depending on the cylinder design, and size, you may be able to downsize the cylinder (bore size) a bit, that will gain speed, but you will lose a bit of power too...BUT, most people very rarely use the full capacity of their splitters anyways...most splitting is done well under 5 tons, 10 max (normally)
Just throwing out some ideas...

 

Yea but probably not so helpful to just say buy a super split in this case. I’m with Dave upgrade your pump is probably one of the easiest ways to increase cycle time on a hydro.

 

Probably one of the fastest hydraulics out there....

 

You can shorten the stroke so it only runs 18” if you only split 16” material. That 18” of rod you’re not cycling.

rugged made splitter’s actually have two holes drilled into the beam for installing a block specifically for that purpose.

you can also use stroke blocks. This is common in farming for adjusting digger depth on farm implements. So it’s not a new technique. This is the same idea behind a block on the beam.


you will likely need to reset the return detention pressure so it’s not smacking so hard on the wedge. Rugged made made a design change to have a larger wedge bolt to attach the wedge to the rod for this reason.


You can install a larger pump as suggested. Install a larger fluid return line to the tank etc. change out your fittings and such to the largest sizes in the valves/cylinder. Get rid of 90* fittings and go to either radiused or 22 1/2 or 45 degree fittings.

 

I don't know what to tell ya then, unless it was a crappy setup. They are the best way to limit stroke length because they are easily adjusted, reliable, and can be removed quickly. I might put one on mine for when I am working by myself.

 

This shows the blocks we added 2-1" thick and a 1/2" thick plate on each side. Drilled holes through plates and splitter foot. Bolts on. We did it for stringy woods.
https://youtube.com/shorts/HKWo3pC72jw?feature=share

 

Looks like Elm.. but yes this is what I'm talking about, blocking out the splitter foot to reduce travel

 

Well yeah...that would be the simplest solution, huh?!
Sometime the most obvious things are right in front of you, and remain unseen!

 

KISS