I burn roughly 10-12 cord a year in my OWB. I currently split all of my wood with a relatively inexpensive horizontal / verticle log splitter. It does the job, but it has a lot of drawbacks for me and my application. I'm looking to build my own dedicated verticle splitter with a large working table so that I'm not constantly having to pick up larger pieces to place them in the splitter. Welding isn't an issue - my best friend is a boiler maker and a very, very good welder. I've been putting together a collection of parts (cylinder, pump, engine, etc, etc) that will rival even the baddest of splitters sold today. . What I can't find is design ideas. Internet searches come up empty for dedicated vertical splitters - can't find one! I'm looking to get the bucks in front of a standing position (not interested in mounting my currently splitter on a platform as I intend to use that splitter to haul into the woods with me when needed) by the use of a log lift off to the side of the table. Does anyone have a dedicated vertical splitter or know of a company who makes them? I want to look at different designs to see what may work best for me. I know the all knowing group here can assist!! Thanks in advance for any info you can give.
Roller table platform with a small plate below the ram for the assist in moving the large rounds? That could be useful. I'm a machine designer, so I might have a few ideas if you need.
try looking splitters up in AU seems to be quite popular there. There was a thread about this ( not here some other site) quite awhile ago before all the hacking took place, likely got trashed an isn't around any more. Most of the units in that discussion had tables at waist level or so with lifts of some sort and table sizes in the 4 ftsq area. & shielded operator station.
Sounds like you're looking for something like this with a log lift attachment. That table is awesome.
Wow - almost too nice to use. But, yes that's what I'm looking to build but with an even larger work deck. I guess I can't decided whether I want a hand operated control valve or foot valve. The idea of standing in one leg for 6 hours doesn't sound fun...thanks for the pic!
Thanks for the idea and offer to assist! A roller table is a great idea - will need to see how I can incorporate that into the table.
I always have thought using one hand to move the ram was a good general idea on all splitters. It makes it less likely we'll get "pinched/crushed" because the ram won't move unless one hand is busy moving the lever, making it likely we'd be paying attention to the other. A foot control would allow 2 hands to be in the wrong place, just when a foot stomped the control at the wrong time. Because of the time that the ram takes to cycle, I can't imagine a foot control speeding things up anyway. Just my 2 cents.
Sawdog, I don't understand completely why a horizontal/vertical splitter would not work for you. If you want to stand while you work, then perhaps I could understand it but then, I don't understand why you would want to stand, thereby forcing you to lift every log onto a table before splitting. Have you considered simply sitting while splitting. If done this way, there is absolutely no need to lift any log onto the splitter and most can be placed on the splitter with one hand! Of course the big heavy ones might take 2 hands but all rounds won't be that big and heavy. I know for certain that even as weak and feeble as I am, I can still place a 200 lb or larger round onto the splitter and use only one hand to do so. This is why I do not understand those who want to stand to do the work. Besides, if you sit, it is less work so you are not as tired at the end of the day because you put out less effort. It becomes a more fun job that way because you'll still have plenty of energy left when the splitting is done. This is how we do it.
I appreciate the reply and the questions. Long story short, I can't bend over for long periods. Also, I can't kneel as I have wire on the top of my kneecap that was replaced a few years ago. The back issue is from a bullet - My body is a little broke up if you haven't guessed that by now. I've helped a buddy split and he likes to work as you do, sitting down. My back couldn't take it - after a couple hours, I could hardly walk. That's the big reason why I want to stand. The log lift would eliminate any lifting of the heavy pieces when needed. The large work deck would prevent me from bending over to constantly pick up splits. Maybe I got it wrong, just trying to find the best way to work for me. Thanks again.
I hear where you are coming from. Check out the @campinspecter splitter for ideas. http://firewoodhoardersclub.com/forums/index.php?threads/log-dogs.1555/page-2#post-44609 video partway down that page.
This machine is 30+ plus years old with a 11 hp Honda for power, Vickers landing gear pump (vane Pump) and only a 3" ram for 5 tons splitting force. The engine ram and hydraulic controls have needed to be either replaced or rebuilt once but no structural repairs. The hydraulic tank is in the vertical ram slide and can split all day with no overheat issues. The four way wedge is forged and has never needed sharpening. About 10 years ago, the local machine shop used this one as a template to build a much more powerful 30 tons splitting force with beefed up welding for more strength for the greater splitting force. The completed price tag was $11,000 and its owner was very happy with its performance. Wood splitter yarder Wood splitter and Log dog Part 1 Wood splitter and Log dog Part 2 Wood splitter and Log dog Part 3 Wood splitter and Log dog Part 4 http://youtu.be/Eoh5pTrXp4o Cutting Firewood with the help of a Log dog
Nice system you have there - thanks for sharing! The log dog is brilliant! Controlled by a wench I assume?
More pictures. The biggest shortcoming of this splitter! IT NEEDS A CONVEYOR, as it just buries itself in splits!
The last thing you want is a foot controlled knife; a split falls on that control and you've cut off your arm. This can happen very fast! This was the result of a mechanical design problem! The machine's first control valve was a motor spool valve meaning all ports were open when in the neutral position when not being used. Once the oil warmed up, the big heavy forged knife started the ram coming down and with the ports open, the ram would come down under pressure with enough force to cut through a piece of wood 3 inches wide and 1/2 inch thick. I'm lucky it was only a finger, not my arm or head! The machine now has a locking control valve and a lock on the exit side of the ram. The ram can't move down unless there is full splitting pressure to the ram .You can see the lock valve behind the ram in one of the pictures .
I think I have seen some European or Australian designs like what you are looking for. Can't think of any offhand but it might help a little to look into that.