Pine down with a large root ball

A tree on the property line fell up north early this morning. These are pics our neighbor sent over.

I’ve never dealt with a tree like this before, but know root balls can complicate things. I have visions of cutting too close to the root ball and having it snap back in place.

We have some neighbors with Kubota loaders. Thinking maybe one of those to hold down the trunk while making the close cut.

May have to wait until spring to get a tractor back there however.

Anyone ever cut anything like this?

We literally just stacked that wood yesterday! LOL!

 

It looks like all the weight is down, the only time I worry is when they are still supported by the roots, looks like the crown is "down hard" on yours.

I say notch the back to avoid pinching the saw and have at it!

Looks like good sawmill fodder to me...

 

The root ball certainly looks like the tree is holding it (and would fall if you cut the tree). What do you want done with the stump when you are done? You can cut it "X" high now if you want to keep the stump (some people decorate etc..). I assume you just want it gonethough so in the case just clean the area a few feet up the tree from the stump and make sure the area is safe. Make sure the falling root ball won't pull attached roots you are standing on, and that the falling root ball won't kick anything up. Then it's a standard few inch bottom cut, then cut through from the top. Just take your time (like with anything thought and preperation are 80% of the project).

 

We have lots of EWP here. I've cut those. Sometimes the root ball "snaps back" , sometimes it just stays there.
If you start cutting from the top of the tree and the root ball has some spring left to it, as you get closer to the stump the trunk will start getting weightless and bouncing around.
I put "snap back" in quotes because the "snap back" is more often just an uneventful inch or two of movement, but you never know how many roots are broken and how many are not. I've had one go about half way back to the ground.

I'd be more concerned with the branches that are holding the trunk up in the air. When they are stabbed into the ground, there can be some unexpected tensions going on.

 

I've sawed on 3 like this before, every bit as large and with more green. None of them ever tried to stand back up. The limbs embedded in the ground might hold the base up if you make a cut to separate from the root ball. I used my long bar so I wasn't standing directly beside. Just like billb3, there was just a couple inches of movement after separation.

 

I've done a few red oaks with smaller root balls. None have tried to stand back up.

However, if it does shift, it's likely to pinch the bottom hard. My strategy is been to bore cut through the middle and down. Then cut from the top. If the kerf jams up at least it won't be on your bar.

I'd also free the trunk from the stump before doing anything else. I don't want a bunch of unknown tension in the tree when I'm limbing or bucking.

And like others have said, be ready to bail in case anything goes sideways.

 

I cut a 28" DBH pin oak blowover a few years ago. Tree was blown down in May 2018 tornado, i cut the following Fall. Normally when i harvest a blowover or a tree i felled i start at the top and keep the trunk elevated for ease of bucking. If you start at the top, slowly reducing the crown weight it could spring back up. Ive seen videos of this. In this case i would cut it close to the rootball first where you have ground clearance so you are not cutting into dirt. Then go to town bucking it up. Use the tractor later to clean up the big remnants. What is the DBH? Looks like a good sized tree.
Too bad about the collateral damage to your stack. Will you keep the wood even though its PINE?

 

Before dropping the trunk off the root ball, I've placed branches perpendicular,under the trunk to try to keep it off the ground for bucking.

 

I do the same. Ill use bucked rounds. Forgot to mention that. Lots of time the limbs will support it for the time being too.

 

I go the top first route. If it wants to stand up and you cut the ball off first everything that happens will happen fast and violently. By starting at the top you’ll be able to figure out whats going to happen before you get there and the weight difference between balanced and moving will be just one round. Once it does start going it will speed up but it will start slow and you’ll know it’s going to happen.

The other option is wait for a hard freeze. Doubt it will go anywhere frozen solid. Just don’t put a lounge chair under it come spring thaw. Only a coyote would pull that move. Beep Beep

 

Thanks everyone. I really need to see it in person to get a better idea of things. And the feedback here has been excellent as usual.

I have an MS250 with an 18” bar. So that’s what we’re working with!

If I do get after this, I’d be happy to take the wood. Although, given where it fell, I’d offer it to the neighbors for use in their firepit or wherever.

 

Crazy! I’ve never seen a tree come down like this. Our trees always snap off at the base. Maybe because the ground here is solid rock? We also don’t have “mud season” here - for the same reason.

 

100% the ground is nowhere near frozen and completely saturated.

 

I’ll just add. If you decide to go with the top first method and have cut all the support branches to find it’s being held up by the ball, good chance it will rise further as you continue removing weight. You can always tie a rope to the upper portion of the tree. When it’s getting close to the point of rising you may be able to pull it back up from behind the rootball. I’ve done that once with a big ol 100’ pine.
Better to cut a spur off in the air than have it come flying up while you’re cutting on it.
Also think time plays a big role. IN my guesstimation in most stand ups occur shortly after they tipped. Time has a chance to alleviate some of the spring in the roots and wash ina little dirt making them more likely to stay down.

Also if it stays down and you get down to the trunk you can use that as a lever to pull sideways and snap some more roots. I’ll do anything not to use a shovel and chainsaw in the dirt
Not a tall tree but a healthy root ball that tipped in my mothers yard. Took some yanking to get it out but yank I did.

 

Just make sure there are no people or pets around when you cut it...that root ball would/could crush someone if it goes back in place

 

I have cut several of those. Usually they just set back down easily only once have I ever had one move abruptly or nearly violently. The advice of being aware of root structure you are standing on is good to heed.

If it was in my wood lot and wanted it I would go for cutting on it.

 

This is what I have always seen. When trees blow down here, they snap at the base. This is an 80 foot tall Ponderosa Pine that came down during high winds in November. The Pondo’s rarely blow down. They are typically very wind resistant.

This is my neighbor’s property. I’ll hit him up about getting that firewood this spring

 

Must bug the heck out of you to look out the window and see that waiting for you!

 

Ha ha. It sure does. That guy is hard to get a hold of during colder months. He will be out riding his horses a bunch when the weather gets warm. I’ll bother him then.