Too much wood, or too much draft?

I've found that if I load my stove as full as possible, char the wood with the stove damper fully open, then shut the stove damper all the way hoping for a quality overnight burn, I'm unable to control the STT and it will rise to 600*+.

A firebox loaded about half full will rise in temp with the stove damper shut all the way, but it won't overfire.

Stove is a Hearthstone Heritage, brand new. Chimney length is about 30'.

Do I need to adjust overnight expectation and throw in less wood?

Or should the stove damper be able to control the burn, which would presumably mean I have too much draft? There's no doubt I have good draft, starting a fire from a cold stove is super easy.

 

A 30' chimney will almost certainly have draft above the stoves design

 

Nothing wrong with 600 degrees correct, unless it converts your house to a nudist colony.

 

The manual calls 30' the maximum height. But I just went out and took a rough measurement... it's probably closer to 27/28'

Google tells me the maximum temp for a soapstone stove is 600. What's got me frustrated though is that with a fully closed stove damper, the temperature rises greatly. Normal? This is my first stove, and I've had it less than two weeks , but I would have thought a fully-closed damper would darn near snuff out a fire.

 

Was not aware 600 degrees was the limit on a soapstone stove.
My IS has soapstone in it but not classified as a soapstone stove I guess as many people have reported running it over 600 degrees.

 

Time for a damper in your vertical interior pipe?


"The recommended minimum chimney height for top of stove installation is 16 feet (4.9 m) off the floor or 13 feet 5 3/4 inches (4.1 m) from the top of the stove. For rear exit connection, the recommended minimum chimney height is 19 feet (5.8m) off the floor or 16 feet 5 3/4 inches (5.0m) from the top of the stove. The recommended maximum chimney height is 30 feet (9m). The Heritage 8024 requires a draft between 0.06” and 0.1” water column. Ensure your chimney is long enough to provide the minimum draft, and use a damper if your installation has a required chimney height that provides too much draft"

 

My hearthstone One is on a 38 ft chimney. The draft sounds like a freight train before I put the pipe damper in.Now all is good.Try it.The stove dampers don't shut the air down enough.I'd like to know how the heat times are on the new model once you dial it in.

 

Yup a pipe damper would be cheap to try as long as you have an accessible spot to put it. My 26 foot 8x12 masonry chimney rips at times. Part of the reason I’m hesitant to install a 6 inch liner.

 

Try altering the full on primary char period by reducing primary air far sooner. Each setup behaves different. Yours sounds as if it needs more brake applied..... More quicker!
Rising temps after reducing cool primary intake air is normal for many.
Worth a shot.

 

I had the same problem with my Ideal Steel and 30' chimney. Added a damper above the stove and now have excellent control. When the flue gets hot and it's cold out it was more than the stove damper could handle. I could get the stove top temp down but the catalyst probe went way off the chart.

 

Sounds like the perfect candidate for a pipe damper, and I'm sure you will be amazed if you get one installed I'm glad that we now live in enlightened times, and can speak of pipe dampers freely without it being heresy going against dogmatic thought.

 

Pipe damper. You will have better control AND burn less wood. Best $25 I spent on my system.

 

Check the manual, I had a heritage for many years and I remember the redline temperature being very low. Each model was different though but all really cold compared to a plate steel stove. The hearthstones are sensitive to overfire and internal and external (cracking) damage could occur.

Yes, you are responsible for operating the stove correctly to maintain your warranty and that includes proper draft and running it cool. Your burn times will improve with the lower draft too. The range 0.06 to 0.1” is actually pretty strong draft but it sounds like you’re above that.

Also be warned that most all of us old timers with heritage experience had the noncat version. The new cat design is very recent and has different needs.

 

Wow 30' is the recommendation? That is really tall. I see the newer Heritage's are just as prone as the old ones to over fires. I can't remember the last time I stuffed my firebox full. That temp just keeps climbing and there's not a damm thing you can do about it even with the air fully closed. Regardless of capacity, can you get the flames down to a nice slow lazy burn? If not, there may be an air leak somewhere, and it might not be the chimney height at all. Check your manual or with Hearthstone before adding a pipe damper. I have on older non-cat Heritage and just took out my pipe damper since it wasn't doing a thing to control an over fire. If anything, the stove is easier to control without it. Someone told me the newer stoves are non designed to operate with stove pipe dampers. Guess there's something to it.

 

Since we have a little back and forth call Jim at Hearthstone and tell him your situation.His number is 802-888-5232 x 225.Ask him if the pipe damper will help or what will.Keep us posted.

 

If your pipe damper wasn't slowing anything down, there was something wrong with your system. There is no way on Gods green earth that a full damper restriction (I realize they have holes, but they are at least a 50-60% reduction at minimum) can not simmer a fire unless you're so far past controlling it that nothing would work.

Let's get away from that whole "dogma" thing I was talking about regarding dampers and newer secondary stoves. If you need a damper, you need one.

 

Thanks all, really appreciate the help!

I've been leaning towards pipe damper, I figure what can it hurt (besides slightly more difficult cleanings). The only problem is that on my setup, the pipe is difficult to access. Not impossible, just difficult. See pic. I mentioned the idea to the stove shop, and they were pretty opposed. Said they could do the install, but most don't need it and it causes a lot of different problems.

I don't think it's a particularly super strong overdraft as I don't hear that roaring sound some speak of. If I load too much wood, the secondaries grow stronger and bigger, and temp continues to climb, until the wood is fired out.

What I was wondering was - can I install an INTAKE damper and achieve the same thing? I have an outside air kit on the stove, and it's much easier to access. Could a damper be placed in this tubing to achieve the same affect? See pic.

 

Yah, I may do this. Thanks for the info!

 

One other thing if I remember correctly there may be airlet holes in the bottom rear of the stove.Stuff them with foil to reduce the air flow.I think the older models had the holes.I know nothing about the newer models.Some have said since they don't allow the stove dampers to totally shut down some use flat magnets to cover the gap more.