Interior House Paint for Walls?

For the most part "contractor grade" is a nice way of saying cheap crap that can be used on a "I won't see it from my house" project.

 

I pay upwards of $50.00 a gallon and it seems unreasonable, but in the long run it is worth it. Paint coverage, durability, washability and how it applies are big for me. I have used quite a few different brands over the years and not are all the same. Lower grade paint can make twice the labor in re-coating a second time.

 

I used Behr paint in the basement, worse crap I ever used. I made such a scene at Hone Depot they gave me free Glidden paint to cover it up. I would use Benjamin Moore paint.

 

Yes...good paint is pricey. It's thicker which means better application. It's cleans better once applied, and will last longer. Ceilings can get the cheap stuff but walls and trim need quality if you want it to last.

If you are gonna spend the coin on behr, go to a real paint store like porter or Sherwin williams. The pro grade stuff is better than behr and the same price. Plus you will get a knowledgeable person to help you instead of an 8$ an hr employee who doesn't care at home cheapo. This really matters when something goes wrong like bonding issues or your color doesn't look right etc.

 

I would go with a premium paint like Benjamin Moore. There is a reason that it costs more than a contractor grade paint. And that reason is in the can.

 

benjamin moore and sherwin williams are the top grade paints IMO. Contractor grade is cheaper because it lesser quality and it is bought in bulk. Behr and valspar are the box stores signature lines, Behr is also a lesser quality paint, valspar has decent ratings.

 

You are not gonna like this, but I'm also going to recommend you buy the very best you can afford. Don't believe self priming and 1-coat coverage either. Do your prep, do it right the first time or you will regret it later.

In the past Ive used even mid-grade paint like BM Regal and have it peeling and grubby looking in places after only 3-5 years.

I have started using all Ben Moore Aura. Matte on drywall and semigloss on trim.

My usual order:

• Wash everything with no rinse TSP
• Prep any drwall problems (Spackle and caulk touch up. Use a good tripolymer caulk like GeoCell/Lexel, ditch the latex crap)
• clean again
  
• Primer on old semigloss paint and/or if you are making a major color change.
  • Trim - After trying lots of things to get paint to stick to old glossy surfaces (sanding, chemical surface prep) I have started using a high bond specialty primer like Insl-X STIX. This is the easiest method Ive found.
    
  • Bath, kitchen, windows (anywhere else subject to moisture) - oil base primer
  • If you have major staining like old water damage you might want to use a stainblock primer like Kilz
• Color - 1 coat if you are just re coating the same color and there is no bad staining, otherwise 2 coats minimum
  • ceilings - flat such as BM ceiling white (with mildew preventative mixed in for bath and kitchen)
    
  • drywall - BM Aura Matte (Aura bath and Spa in bath and kitchen)
  • trim - BM Aura Semigloss
  • Anything that gets a beating such as shelves, painted floors & stair treads - floor enamel. I wish I could still get this in oil base.

Repainting old wood windows and window jambs/sills are a special beast that would get its own post if you are interested.

 

I miss having a neighbor that works at BM corporate. While it lasted it was paint at dealer cost.

 

Welcome

Yes I beleive you can skip the wash step for new drywall... 90% of the time here Im repainting over old work Definitely use a primer coat though. regular all purpose interior latex primer should work for that.

 

You can tint the primer a little also which can help cut down on the need for extra coats of paint. On the other hand it can obviously cost you if you wind up with a bunch of partially used cans of tinted primer.

 

I wonder how the lifetime warranty works?

 

A contractor grade from sherwin or pittsburgh are geared for the contractor to lower the costs and still they still have a high quality product..A sherwin promar 200 grade paint for example is top quality paint as is geared for the professional .The problem with behr is that if you try to touch it up it will flash.If you are doing a 20 ft wall and try to feather it in it will flash it will not lay off easily its a behr Sherwin and pittsburgh and also benny moore use better quality tints all touch up and lay off easier.Valspar made by sherwin Olympic is made by pittsburgh behr is made by the same company that makes kills.I get Duration for between 32 and 38 superpaint in mid 20 to 30.Superpaint in satin is an excellant paint lower sheen (shine) than eggshell can't go wrong excellant to touchup if you know how to feather it in even up to a year later if applied right the first time.Sherwin paints are different on the sheen than others satin is less of a sheen than eggshell where as behr and pitt ar the opposite.Menard's sells a grand distinction which is Manor hall in the pittsburgh lineup.