Ideal steel/cat wood stove…?

Adkhunt, did you get the soapstone option, I'm loving the soapstone.

 

I got soap stone

 

Which stove is that you have?

 

Guys, how much difference are you seeing in the soapstone option?


Besides soapstone what type of bricks do they put in them; standard fire bricks or pumice bricks?

I know the soapstone absorbs heat very well, but I have to wonder why they offer both types of bricks in that stove and if the other bricks are standard or pumice?

Pumice bricks I believe reflect more heat back into the firebox and don’t absorb heat like standard bricks or soapstone. I have to wonder how either of the three would effect the burn of the stove and how much heat is retained in the stove, soapstone being the heat retention winner, of course.

I’m betting they don’t use pumice because they tend to deteriorate quickly, likely not because of the pumice but the binders holding them together.

 

Yup, got the soap stone option.

 

I find the coaling stage of the burn on my AS, with very low (under 1) draft, provides quite excellent heat for many hours, so I just let it happen.

 

Woodstock Ideal Steel.

 

Cant answer exactly what other type of firebrick they offer but I'm sold on soapstone, I'm sure regular firebrick is a better option for some applications but for me it works well. The heat the stove gives off long after the fire has died down is impressive.

 

I had a AS in the house for awhile, and I agree with this statement. When it got to 50 belowish I had to use smaller splits of pine or fir and leave the air open. Ultimately this is why I replaced the AS for a princess that was given to me. Don't have this problem with the blaze king, but the AS did heat fine, just more thought and work put into it.

 

That has me scratching my head, I have not changed my burning practices what so ever compared to my other stoves,elm, oak and ash is the only kinds of wood im using, no pine here.

 

Yeah, but when was the last time it was -50*F there?!

 

Hoytman the Ideal Steel was an entrant in a green heat competition for low cost high quality woodstove.
The soapstone increase costs and was an upgrade to regular firebrick.

 

You ever been to northwest iowa in the dead of winter?

 

Nope...probably windy, but I'm sure its still not -50*...and even it it was, your homes heat load may be less than Camber s...the detail make a difference.

 

Well maybe not 50 below actual temp but 25 to 30 below, 80 below wind chill is the worst i remember. I did have coaling issues with the PE and the drolet, i did not check where he lived but i agree the devil is in the details.
I just checked, Montana.

 

I will add that i tend to let the stove cycle through the burn, not one to try and keep an even temp all the time, all part of the pleasure of wood burning.

 

I've had my IS for 7 years now and it's a great heater. I burn any wood I can get (Ponderosa pine, Jeffrey Pine, Lodge pole pine, Sugar pine, Spruce, Cottonwood, Maple, Ash, Elm, Almond and Walnut and some Oak).... As for coaling, I only have this issue with Oak and almond mainly. I just keep the cat engaged and open the air all the way. Sometimes if I want to burn them down quick I'll disengage the cat and open air all the way up.

As far as fule Temps, I have double wall pipe so I don't have an accurate measurement... I've got a magnet temp gauge on it right now but I don't pay attention to it anymore. I got off the fire in the box anymore and don't have any stalled cat issues like I did when I first had the stove. A little bit of a learning curve but I've got her figured out and love this stove.

It's burning a small load of Elm now to warm up the house...

 

I was/am aware of both points. Thank you though.

 

I've found when the cold temp settle in i prefer the less preferred woods over the typical heavy hitters, like oak, because of the coaling.
If it's cold and windy, I'll make a midday fire with pine, poplar, maple, aspen or any "junk" wood (campfire wood) that needs used up. I get quick heat and there's no coals to fight with before bedtime.
I drilled the 1/4" hole in the ash pan door years ago and that works perfect for burning the coals up during the burn cycle rather than after.