I briefly scanned this thread and saw no mention of the fuel dilution issues some newer Honda GDI engines are having. All turbo'd GDI engines are also harder on oil and have higher chances of LSPI. Personally, I'd stay away from anything Ford right now. Hear it from a Ford master tech from N IL: Here's a thread about some of Ford's recent issues: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/at-ford-quality-is-now-problem-1.358163/ As far as Subaru goes, they are still living with the stigma they had with the older engines. Head gasket failures and oil consumption have been taken care of for awhile now in the newer FB20 and FB25 motors.
I will add to that post. There is some weird issues with my 2020 f150 5.0L. the transmission has some weird hunting and jerking issues on a cold start if you don't warm it up for a few mins before you leave. No codes. It also has burned oil from day 1. Uses about 1-1.5 quarts of oil between the 7-8k oil changes by oil life meter request. I idle a good bit, and I can feel it stumble ideling so much it physically shakes the truck like someone is pushing on it. It's obviously misfiring but it's not enough to send a CEL it's obviously less than the count needed in a period of time to trip the code for misfire. All the dam drivers doors creek and sound terrible after about a year, grease made it worse, spray lube quiets it down but doesn't last long. No I haven't taken it in to a dealer. Usually they say it's fine, it takes weeks usually to get them in for an appointment and if they do anything I don't really have time to be without my truck for that type thing...when it still works. Again this is not a personal truck it's for work and I get a new one every 3-4 years so I honestly don't really care. It just needs to run when I need it too. CEL lights get addressed as well as oil changes and anything that could leave me somewhere.
The RL is different than the Odyssey then...or they have changed the newer ones...hopefully they changed them, that was a really stupid decision to make the filter non serviceable IMO!
I owned a CRV in the past, I believe it was a 2006, if I remember correctly. Loved it for a one way 44 mile commute. At that time I owned an older work truck for around the house and property. When my long commuting days were done I went back to one truck. Only 4 miles to work from 2009 to now. My wife owns a 2018 CRV now and loves it. Averaging 29 miles per gallon. Hondas and Toyotas are reliable vehicles. My daughter has a 2013 Equinox AWD and likes it. Her Grandparents owned it before and we’re happy with it. It has been a good vehicle so far. About 65,000 miles on it now.
I'm not sure if the odyssey shares the same transmission but it probably does. ZF designed and builds the 9 speed auto. It appeared in the 2016 pilot first as an option and had issues. Failures even. There was a wire harness plug inside the transmission with improper crimp that would come loose and cause all sorts of problems plus people hated the shift programming. Honda wasn't alone in this as other companies using it such as jeep and Mercedes had the same issues. By 2018 I think it was the transmissions bugs were worked out. It wasn't until 2020 it was available in the Ridgeline and I think its excellent. I especially like the Sport mode for towing so I can choose the gear I'm in and when to shift with the paddles. It won't upshift till redline, if in sport mode, and you fail to do so. It will also downshift for you when coming to a stop if you fail to downshift manually. You can also leave it in drive and override it temporarily with the paddles. I try to keep my speed exactly where I have the cruise set when towing. Using the paddle shifters allows me to do just that because I can anticipate the hills ect where as the truck has to be reactionary to the hill. The suck side is the $400 dealer transmission service it will need on the severe driving schedule because it's towing more than not.
I find that very unreasonable but everyone's tolerance level is different. I have pretty strong OCD with certain things and a quart between oil changes of even 10,000 is unacceptable to me. Leaking anything is another. From anywhere.
Our mail lady had a second gen CRV. It had over 250,000 trouble free miles on it. Routine maintenance. I'm not sure if all those miles were rural mail delivery or not. Anyway, she preferred her right hand drive square body Jeep Cherokee for her mail delivery for obvious reasons but often, for weeks at a time, she'd be in the CRV because the jeep was a problematic POS. I'm not a Jeep hater. Ive had 2 TJs and liked them for what I did with them. They Both however were not without their troubles.
Can't be that bad of OCD if doing OCI's of that many miles on a GDI engine. LSPI, IVD and timing chain issues from soot due to fuel dilution have me dumping my oil every 3K or 3 months, whatever comes first on both of our GDI vehicles simply out of an abundance of caution. I also use the latest API/ILSAC oils to help with all the aforementioned concerns.
I find something like a qt in 1000 miles to not be reasonable...but most manufacturers will not do warranty work unless its more than that. If you would use a few more acronyms you could type less...
I’m a Honda fan. Have had a couple of Civics, took one to 340k. The other to 150+ and sold to my daughter and she added over 50k, and then sold to a neighbor that still drives it. An Odyssey to over 250k. Now own a 2012 CRV with 160k and a 2015 Accord with 130k. CRV get about 26mpg, a little sluggish in eco mode on the interstate but fine with that turned off. Accord has the rubber band transmission and paddle shifters (odd combo). Zero issues.
LOL Typing less is a good thing when you type like I do. OCI: Oil Change Interval LSPI: Low Speed Pre Ignition IVD: Intake Valve Deposits GDI: Gas Direct Injection ILSAC: API:
The early dual fuel injection 5.0's had issues. Some were recalled and lemon lawed. I saw a couple when I was buying my truck. I walked away from a buyback lemon law '20 5.0 that was EXACTLY how I'd have optioned it had I ordered it. The 10 speed can hunt, especially if not reflashed.
Those Hondas must have been "pre-CVT", huh? Just wondering. My civic is a good car but the things I don't like about it are: The CVT (even though is has never given me any problems). The height (road clearance). It is too low to the ground (for me getting in and out) and driving it in the winters here are a challenge due to the lack of clearance. The overall small size of it. These are all things that I knew about before I bought it. IMO, it's a great summer car and a not so great winter car. Seems I always end lup pushing snow with it whenever I use it in the winter.
I wonder the same thing. I'll see if I can find anything worth linking here. To me, if any automatic / cvt can't pass 200,000 with proper maintenance and use then it's not an option I want. We have the HRV now with one. 60,000 on it so far. Fingers crossed on that.
I assume he has regular fluid changes. Our dealer recommends every 30,000 on the CVT fluid even if you don't do the severe driving that puts you into the severe service schedule. They recommend, on this one thing, to NOT wait for the maintenance minder to tell you when. It's the only service item they have recommended earlier intervals on. That makes me wonder a bit.