So I slapped the tarp on today. Supposedly rain coming so just getting it on there was important. It’s not quite what I had envisioned. In a perfect world I wouldn’t want the tarp to touch any wood at all. At the moment my biggest concern is the sag in the ridgeline. To be expected but it seems so much more than I had years ago when I did this. Now I could raise the rope to get more height. Add wood to get the tarp out from the sides. I’m not too concerned with this one. Its fairly dry wood already and will be burned next year. I’m more concerned with building the next pen in such a way to make it better. So I could do shorter pens. Let’s say 20 foot instead of 30. Less sag. More weight equals less sag but dang that 4x4 has a nice bend to it already. Easiest solution is skip the ridgeline completely. Roll my 5’ wide epdm rubber on top to completely cover the wood and then just run the tarp over that. The rubber provides cushion to keep the tarp from tearing. The tarp provides total coverage and holds the rubber in place. Not sure you could hold two strips of rubber on there with a seam on top nor would it be wide enough to cover a “domed” pile 8’ wide. problem with the easy method is you severely cut down on air flow. Would green/wet wood dry in a large stack like that witH the top covered tight? Maybe, maybe not. Certainly not the best, just the easiest And the fact the pile is a little long for the tarp is obviously my fault wanted a foot of overhang on the ends but fudged the measurement buildinG the pallets. Basically just forgetting one days plan the next day.
Seems like overkill. Loose stacked is going to have more air space and flow. I hand stack and tarp cover and the wood right under the cover appears to be the driest. I have not mm checked to verify the appearance, but wood directly under the tarps never gets touched by rain or snow.
Would be problematic with snow and wind loads. These tarp roofs will settle right onto the wood with a wet snow. A little sun and they pop back up. The main reason I went with a floating tarp is it can last so much longer if you can keep it off the wood. They blow and flex but as long as they’re not rubbing against anything sharp they hold up well. Even when they do become worn/frayed they still shed water well compared to flat and any small leak has air to dry it up again. I was hoping I could blame it on the cheap poly Home Depot rope but an internet search tells me it’s physics, not cheap rope LOL
usually I use 5’ epdm to cover 3’ wide stacks. I agree the wood directly underneath is the driest. going 8’ wide has me worried. I’ve seen what leaks can do with wide stacks. While I can prevent leaks I’m still worried about the moisture that’s already in green wood.
I'd just use the rubber. Create a little peak in the middle with splits so water doesn't lay/freeze and put your tarp over that.
No rubber roofing on hand that will lay over the top like your other stacks or you just dont wanna do it that way?
It’s all 5 feet wide. If I increase to 8’ wide pens with slope it won’t work with two pieces. Plus the idea is to allow the top to breathe to make up for pallet sides and extra thick stack.
Thin ripped slats that will bend enough from front of pen to back, screw or zip tie to these “half hoops” a ridge board the length of the pen, secure tarps to top of pen walls… voilà a hoop house roof. Plenty of air movement, too. Scrap/reclaimed PEX would also work great for the half hoops.
If it was me, I'd run some 1" pipe in place of the rope secured to the posts. Then Drywall or deck screw the tarp thru the eyelets to the pallets. Go visit your local well driller or scrap yard.
Great idea...and if the pex comes off a roll, it will already have memory in the "hoop" shape! If a person could find some free or cheap 3/4" or 1" pex/al/pex pipe, it will pretty much hold any shape you bend it in.
You could also make a semi rigid structure under the tarp with something like cattle panels to help support it.
Instead of using rope I buy bungee cord by the roll on amazon. Any length and diameter you want. Buy metal hooks there too to match diameter. Many uses and they hold up great. use them for stacks , trailers and truck. 1/4 & 3/16 fit thru tarp grommets easily. link
So far I’m thinking one bale of hay in the middle is the cheapest easiest route fellas. Or lay the rubber on top with a tarp over, no air space. I have time to rethink all this stuff before finishing the next one. mikeward thanks for that link. Harbor freight had 21” epdm bungee cords on sale this weekend. 20 for $11. Grabbed four packs. Only problem with the epdm is they’re not all that stretchy and there’s lots of grommets in a 10x30 tarp It may be down and dirty but I’m glad I got that one on when I did. We’re getting all the rain we missed all year today.