361 dies in wood

That would starve it for fuel also.
Run it again until it behave poorly in the cut. Then open the tank cap to let the tank breath, close it up, and go back to cutting.
Problem gone, could be vent.
Problem still there, not likely a vent issue

 

I adjusted the high and cleaned the tank vent. Saw still dies in the wood.

 

Could it be a pinched or soft (collapsing) fuel line? Do the fuel lines look to be in good condition? Check that they are not pinched (i.e. squashed to a smaller diameter, restricting fuel flow) where they pass through the case and grommets.

Worth trying a brand new fuel filter and air filter also.

 

Change the fuel filter to new?

I think your still not getting enough fuel for the amount of air.
Either too much air. An air leak somewhere
Not enough fuel. Something’s restricting fuel flow.
Fuel: filter, fuel line, carb.
Air: leak: loose connections like intake boot clamp, cylinder bolts. Or bad rubber like crank seals or intake boot.

 

In my very limited experience all the saws that have been sitting a while have required a carb gasket rebuild kit at a minimum. Those diaphragms seems to dry up and not function properly if the saw has not been used. A gasket rebuild kit is pretty cheap and don't take apart the carb until you get the new one. Take a lot of pictures and make sure you install everything back the same way. Get some carb cleaner and spray the carb after removing the old gaskets. Make sure that fine mesh filter is not clogged up with debris. I always replace those even if it appears to be clean anyways. Since the rebuild kits come with them I use it and eliminate one more possible cause of fuel starvation.

I've tried cleaning carbs out but the saws I'm seeing have all been sitting for so long and I know they've had ethanol fuel in them....some still have old, old fuel in the tank.....so that hasn't worked out too well for me.

I'd check what everyone else said above first - look for a damaged fuel line, impulse line, replace the fuel filter. Check that the cylinder bolts are nice and tight. I've seen saws with a bolt missing or loose.....hence massive air leak. New spark plug....take some pics.

 

What do the electrodes on the plug look like?

 

Haven't had it happen to me but have heard of old fuel lines that can actually collapse and starve the carb.

Sent from my SM-G930VL using Tapatalk

 

The guy I bought it from lives locally. He is going to take a look at it next week. Thanks for the suggestions guys.

 

Pull the muffler and post a picture of the piston.

 

Ended up being a disconnected impulse line. Saw runs good now. Is there anything besides a dull chain that would make the bar smoke? The bar is throwing oil. I must have got into a bit of dirt noodling some big oak. Stihl RS chain.

 

Can you pull it around by hand ?
Did you ever throw the chain ? If so a bent driver would heat things up.
Also heat is carried away with the chips so ......ya gotta have chips.

 

Yup chain moves around freely. I did not throw the chain. It went from throwing noodles to fine dust. The cutters are def not sharp to the touch.

 

Needs a good sharpening. Rotate 2-3 chains so you always have a sharp one on the saw. Noodling hard gnarly wood can quickly take a sharp edge off a chain. The shape and size of saw dust and noodles is a good indicator if sharp vs dull. One it starts to get dull STOP! Change the chain or sharpen. Continuing to cut with a dull chain makes the chain duller and causes the user to force the saw to "cut". Makes it a lot more tedious to sharpen and may even ruin the chain and cause it to smoke. My rule of thumb for noodling is using a bar only a couple inches longer than the length of the round. Using a bar longer only makes more teeth to dull and sharpen.

Also check your rakers (depth guages) and make sure you file them down as the teeth get smaller. Failure to do so will cause the saw to not get a good bite in the wood.

 

Take a thin putty knife and run it along the groove of the bar. I think you'll be surprised at how much sawdust/oil comes out of there. Also make sure your oiling holes are 100% clean. Just because the oiler is putting out oil doesn't mean it's getting all the way down the bar. I had chains "seize" up on me when I got my first chainsaw because I was not diligent enough about cleaning the groove. Now I take the b/c off after every use, give it a once over with the brush and clean the grooves after every use.

 

Forgive me gents but is there a good way to start this saw without the pull rope getting ripped out of my hand? Lol. I’m used to my 260 which doesn’t have much resistance when starting.

 

Put the saw on the floor.
Put your right foot in the handle.
Push decompression valve IN.
Pull cord gently until you feel it catch (like 2"). Hold position.
Pull to start.

On subsequent pulls ensure that decomp valve is still in. If it is not, push it in. If you don't you may get bitten.

 

I hear a lot of guys don’t use the decomp valve?

 

Sometimes these are removed and plugs installed if the decomp is leaking and people don't feel like paying $50 to replace it.

If you are having issues with your arm being yanked off, use it.

 

Check the screen in the muffler

 

is it hard to pull or does it actually pull back?