As buZZsaw BRAD can attest, I’m about 3’1” so the only thing I have to worry about hitting my head on is the kitchen table
Thanks eatonpcat Rumor has it you're an experienced structural guy. Do the upright posts look stout enough to you? Before I even bothered scrounging the cedar, I read online somewhere that eastern red cedar has 80% the strength of similar sized oak. My posts range in size from 7" down to about 4.5". I put the smaller ones on the ends thinking they would get less of a load than the 4 posts in the center.
If you used them as rafters id be a bit concerned, but posts, nah. How soon you setting rafters? What is the distance between the beams? How much will rafters project from each end?
I have to get my lateral braces on the back side before setting the rafters. I figure there's a couple days there of working on it a little at a time in the evening after work. Hoping by Friday to start the rafters. There's only going to be about a foot overhang on the front and back of the rafters from the beams. Distance between the beams is 10'.
Thats about what i thought. You are spacing rafters 19-20" (the little "diamond" mark on your tape measure) correct?
That's the plan. Funny I never noticed the little diamond and had to actually look at a tape measure just now, then Google its significance. I was planning for just under 20" rafter spacing simply because that's what I had enough material to do, giving myself a little leeway.
Ive never framed or seen spaced framing based in the diamond, its just a way of using less lumber when building that meets code specs. With a lot of the "engineered" wood and structural members it allows it to be built that way. One other thing about weight on the roof. The roll roofing weighs 1/3 that of shingles so the actual load will be a lot less.
this is a fantastic project. I want to see a money total when done!! I also think that once you have it up and done. The metal roofing will show up eventually and it’s real simple to put that down on top of the rubber roofing as extra protection to help things slide off
It is more or less the same material as roof shingles only in roll form. The old stuff could be ripped easily where as the "rubberized" stuff is impossible to tear. The photo brenndatomu pictured is of the rubberized stuff being installed with hot asphalt...set in a bed of molten asphalt, but dont call it "tar"... its a trade thing with me. Like calling mortar or concrete, cement! Right jo191145?
Sorry Joe, my father hated it too so i got it from him. When bituminous roofing was first developed in the 19th century they did use coal tar pitch for flat roofing (still due) but it has no asphalt in it, hence to origin of the term. Hey wait a minute...you were a mason, when did you use "tar"?