Listener that is. I have a question for the group. Today as I was bucking a downed ash tree, my saw would bog down and/or jump abruptly in the cut. This has happened from time to time before, but I just bought a new stihl 400 and the increase in power from my only other saw, stihl 291, made the jumping and kicking way more jarring to me. The culprit seemed to be that the cut was not straight. I just put a new (out of the box) chain on the bar so I suppose a dull chain can be ruled out (it's a green safety chain, fyi). The chain tension seems fine. I am using a 25 inch bar and the tree is just a bit wider than the bar. I'm using a wedge, so the bar isn't being pinched. I have cut larger diameter trees with the 291 and I am not doing anything differently. Perhaps there was some user error when I put the chain on the bar? I don't know. Before I looked around online, I figured I would ask here and see if there is a common answer. Thanks! I'll hang up and listen to your answer.
If the 400 is having the problem with a 25” bar have you turned bar oil output to max? Another culprit could be the bar. Do you have another bar to use?
I don't have another bar, but maybe this is a good excuse to get a light bar. I'll look into the bar oil setting. Thanks!
Scroll down through this page: Chain Saw Guide Bar Maintenance Did you get a new bar with the 400 or is it an old one?
Its possible (but not typical) that having the tip of the bar buried is giving you some kickback...dangerous!
I'm thinking that is part of the problem. I would try and cut from the other side of the log and, because the first cut wasn't straight, the bar would not sit well in the cut.
Try to take your saw over the top, and the tip down near the dirt on the back side and work back so the tip isn’t buried against uncut wood. Sharp chains bite a little!!
Semi-chisel or full chisel chain? My first thought was semi-chisel causes what you are talking about sometimes
Could it be an adjustment to a more powerful saw on your part as well??? Not sure on why it would cut crooked with a new bar & chain? I ran a 290 (precursor to the 291) as my only saw for years. Few years ago i got an MS460 (77cc). Going from a 16 bar to a 28" bar i felt like a professional logger. Took me a while to get used to the bigger saw and its power.
I agree with others above, other point is the green safety chain limiting chip bite and removal? I’ve never buried the tip on such chain
Green safety chain buried fully could be the problem. That green chain has the bumpers under the front of the rakers and when that chain rolls over the nose it blocks the cutter from contacting the wood to prevent kickback. You can file down the bumpers to basically make it into a yellow link chain. I just did this to the chain that came with my 400. Why they sell a saw that is a pro saw with this chain is beyond me
I have bought green chain when no yellow was in stock. I take it to my belt grinder and in about 5 minutes you would never know it was green, I take the humps right down to the links. Green chain is yellow chain with "bumpers" that's the only difference. Sometimes I get bored and grind the rivets too...
Thanks for the help, everyone. I appreciate it. I have learned a lot just from reading posts on this forum for the past few years. Not only has the site been really informative, but it has also motivated me to actively look for my firewood. I started reading 2 years ago and have got myself on to the 3 year plan (or will be when these two ash trees are processed), burning approximately 5 cords a year. Thanks again.
Semi-chisel is horrible imo. It doesn't cut, it tears imo; even worse with the bar completely buried. Try a fresh loop of full chisel or square filed chain and report back.
