Thanks to Gary ( GuidoSalvage).....i am the proud owner of this gem . Got 2 new different size wheels that shall keep me busy for a while ! Custom front handle... Tightened all screws... And some junk practice chains ...and im up and running. I have no manual.. So ive been trying to figure it out on my own. Think im doing a fair job. Open to any suggestions . Thanx again Gary !
30° on the cutter and 60° on the head angle (if adjustable), are pretty standard angles. Go to 25° if you want a longer lasting cutter (not as sharp) or 35° if you want a faster cutting cutter (won't last as long). 30° is right in the middle. But experiment and decide what you like.
I don't know grinders but that looks like it would last 3 lifetimes. Correct radius on the wheel will be the critical for proper hook.
There stuff is expensive!!! I google them while thinking g about it. I think this is the cheaper one but still!!!!
Awesome Fuzz! Be careful of the wheels exploding brother it does happen although not often and that has no real guard on the lower half. When they go boom it's like a mini shrapnel bomb going off...
Looks as though you're doing "OK". That deal about no manual and you figuring it out yourself works out pretty good on chain grinding, especially, when you've been hand filing them for a while.
Congrats H.F., I use a Black Sharpie to mark the tooth or raker I start on. I also bought a Digital Caliper so I can measure which cutter is the smallest. I still file in the woods when cutting but it's nice to have the grinder, I just started doing the rakers on the grinder this year but still like filing the rakers on the vise better.
I have had digital callipers for many years but I use a Crescent type wrench to compare cutter lengths
How important is cutter length to chain sharpening? I have one chain thats largely different. It cutting circular and wonder if its tooth length or raker height? I did not pay attention to if the long side was the same side it pulls to or not?
I would guess that it's the cutters. It can also be because of the pressure used, but uneven cutters is a sure fire way to cut crooked. At the GTG I was cutting in a "U" but the best I could figure, was the pressure I was applying. I was running all brand new loops of Stihl chain. Or my 28" ES Light bar was flexing... A lot of people hold the saw handles "upright", but because of the A/V on a saw, the engine and bar part of the saw are not a solid part of it. So they "flex" some. Well when the wrap and handle are upright, the cutting part of the saw is now on a small angle because of the A/V. Next time you go up to a log, just rest your bar on it, and press down. Tell me what happens. When many people cut to the "right" instead of a flat of straight cut, it can also be because they are using a great amount of pressure. Which either means two things? Your chain is not sharp, or you need a bigger saw (and a sharp chain) !! Use a decent sized saw, with a good sharp chain, and let it do the work Straight cuts all the time.
Yea I see what you mean about pressure and have thought about that being the issue. I am cutting to the right. This is when cutting with my 650 with a 20" loop in some green white oak...so yes I am leaning on it pretty good but the saw can take it This was a fresh ground chain. I actually started with the 372 (also fresh ground chain)but it just wasnt fast enough!! As I had been using the 650 the day before and I was use to its speed.
The marker is a sure fire way not to sharpen it twice, I like the marker even better when filing in the woods. I usually clean the chit off my chain before I sharpen it.
I use a marker/yellow paint stick as well. To see the cutter and if it's really clean, you have to look down and inside. Where with the marker, you can sit up and not worry about looking. Once it starts to come around the top of the bar, you can see it in your peripheral vision. Clem- the 650 can most definitely take some pushing with a 20" bar, but that will cause that angled cut. The harder you push, the more it's amplified. Unless you compensate for that angle by the holding saw differently. I used to be pretty anal about all of my rounds have flush and straight edges..... It made my stacks look very nice. But the extra time and patience was just to much. I still measure the length of the rounds to 18"-19" with my stick, but I just cut them now.
I will have too pay more attention next time and let the saw eat. Its not as a big deal to but more of a pride thing to make straight cuts. But this case it was amplified as I was standing not only downhill but on a bit of a side hill from the tree as well as it being a blow down and held up in the air at a slight angle, basically the tree was not parallel to the ground so to get a straight cut you would have to angle the saw anyway...so maybe I was cutting straight??
Using the spikes (especially a double set) will help make straight cuts. You still have to aim correctly to get square ends but if you set the dogs and gently fan through the log, you will get straight cuts unless your bar/chain is the problem.
Nice Fuzz, as Pallet Pete said be careful! Wear your safety glasses! The wheels do explode once in a while.
