TSC stove...King I believe...need help

Interestingly, it's extremely cold here and I'm running in heat range 7 but I have my draft fan set on 2. No issue with excessive pellets / corn in the firepot at all. I keep the draft fan as low as possible to allow the maximum dwell time for the flame to transfer as much heat as possible without tripping the high limit snap switch. Balmy 20 with a below zero wind chill.

 

So you think stove pipe clogging may be causing this?

 

In reality, on startup (cold stove) the feed rate starts at HR 1 and advances to whatever set point you enter on the keypad. All controlled via algorithms programmed into the ECM.

 

That would be a question to ask a NFI certified installer: if you decide to go that route. I believe I've stated my concerns w/ the install of this stove, using the old venting & lack of floor protection above.

All of my posts above were referencing the 5502 stove manual from the TSC website. A google search of "1098925_Man2.pdf" should bring a link up to that manual for you.

badbob 's recommendation of contacting USSC to see if they have a NFI member in your area is an excellent idea - as the manufacturer (USSC) is listed as an NFI advocate company, on the NFI website.

NFI ADVOCATES – National Fireplace Institute (NFI)

The USCC # is: (800) 750-2723, Technical Assistance Hotline

Best discussed w/ the previous stove owner (your cousin), on the best way to proceed, re: resources, finances - to help your Uncle & Aunt out w/ this. This is my best advice to you.

 

I know nothing about it, but I stumbled across something where someone said this redesigned burn pot is supposed to cure pellet buildup/overflows (part of the issue here?) on this stove...just FYI.
No idea why Amazon links only work half the time here?!
Search:
NBK 20333 Burn Pot Stainless Steel - 86624

 

Should probably add that my post concerning resetting the stove to factory defaults was right out of the USSC Tech manual that I have a copy of. Something 'stinks in Denmark' if the burn pit overflows like it does. I suspect a blockage somewhere or maybe the draft fan has lost it's vanes and isn't pulling any draft, or the fan motor is shot.

No matter how I set mine, I cannot ever get the burn pot to load up. It's always running clean or close to clean.

Presently, I'm running at factory HR7 with the convection fan set on 2 and the agitator on 1 and all is well with mine. Hotter than hell but running fine. I'm pushing the high limit shutdown but it's frigging cold here and windy and I need everything I can get out of it right now. as it is, the central furnace is still cycling a bit and I hate buying that high buck propane. I'm consuming 3 5 gallon buckets of corn / pellet mix every 24 hours , just like clockwork,

 

Because you read & followed the manual, installed proper venting, and maintain the stove well.

Which does not appear to be the case w/ this install.

 

I appreciate everyone’s help in this thread.

 

I know you are looking out for your Aunt & Uncle. Every stove install is different - best to get a professional out there to evaluate & get some recommendations.

 

Pressing aux up and down simultaneously will revert back to factory defaults. This where the stove is proven to run if stove is clean and set up properly using wood pellets. Once started raise to HR 2 or 3 and you will get heat, if all else is ok. After that call a pro and listen to him or her.

Doggy

 

Factory settings was over filling the fire pot at start up and had to be turned way down. I mentioned this in the first post of the thread. That’s why we needed the codes.

 

Hoytman - I don't own this stove, only helped a neighbor several years ago w/ one. Prior, I was demo'd this stove (in action) though at the local Hardware store (Aubochon), when they were selling them years ago. There may be an issue w/ the stove electronics or motors, I cannot say. * And wouldn't, since I don't own this stove - don't want to give you bad info. here.

Only can say that -if- the venting is not up-to-par, no matter which settings are modified, the stove will not operate properly. And that it's important the floor protection is at least 6" around the perimeter of the stove (per the manual), extends -under- the venting -> to the vent outlet outside. Leaving exposed materials (carpet, drapes, etc.) that may be subjected to (unintended) overheat due to a stove issue ... is a dangerous situation. That's why the NFPA standards for venting exist. (Which the NFI folks are required to study, to get their Cert.) * This stove holds up to 120 lbs. of fuel, as much as a mid to large wood stove. It's nothing to discount, or mess around with.

Doing a new install at this time of year is always a "challenge" (been there, done that, still got the blood-soaked T-shirt), and "tuning" a stove is always fun, when you are under time pressure to get heat into the living space.

Can only reiterate that from my limited experience, this stove likes a straight shot out of the stove -> to the outside, w/ a clean-out 'T', and up to the termination cap. If the run is short enough: 3" venting is fine. If the run is longer, then 4" venting is called for. Again, whatever the manufacturer states in the manual. The manufacturer's install manual takes precedence here.

I hope the feedback is helpful.

 

Just read 1st post. Nowhere did it say that stove was put back in factory default. It does say heat 1 exhaust 8 (or other way around ) on manual page which indicates stove is in a custom setting, possibly by former owner.

Doggy

 

In reality, factory default setting will work in most all scenarios.

One thing I've never been able to wrap my opinion around is why people will put the cleanout Tee inside the house and not on the outside at the bottom of the vertical run. Never figured that out.

I would never want the cleanout Tee inside, even if there was no vertical venting at all. Fly ash is inherently messy and dirty so why would anyone pop the cap and soil the interior of the house with it.

In reality, the cleanout Tee is to remove any dropped fly ash that drops out of the vertical run so it can be removed easily and the inside Tee certainly isn't conducive to using a leaf blower to suck out the venting either.

 

My tee is inside because my pipe is off the stove, up 2-3 feet, then vertical out the wall, to a cap outside. No other place to put it.

 

How bad is it to clean out as in ash going all over?

 

I liked your comment even though it sounds like a not likeable task. My shop vac got a hole in the drywall bag and let some of the ash from the stove escape and about that time the furnaced cycled. When I went to change the furnace filter (I do that monthly), it was black. No roof for me. My venting goes up the side of the house to the peak of the roof and I made standoff's from flat rolled and some sheet welded up to carry everything. Those expensive but flimsy standoff's that Duravent and Selkirk offer for 30 bucks + are way to flimsy for me I dismantle the venting every spring and clean it inside. This spring I need to replace 2 6 foot long pieces. After 20 years they have developed holes in the stainless liner. Corn is hard to the stainless liner.