Now if i can just learn how run this thing!

The pinging noises weren't the normal expansion and contraction sounds i am used to, more like a clicking sound.
Seems like my flue temps are a little higher then yours, I'm running internal temps of 600 or so going by the double inside vs surface. I have one magnetic sensor that is accurate compared to my infrared tester. Book say engage cat at 250 surface temp 10 inches above flue collar.

 

In my past life i was a electrician so no problem with hooking it up, would be nice to get a simple one for the probe, the flue and surface ones i am comfortable with for now.

 

I should have added that my flue is double wall, which is a pretty important parameter.

 

The pinging and popping sounds let me know it is working I can be in the next room and tell by the sound that it is heating up, or that it is heating up too fast. If I put a load of wood on a small bed of coals it can take a while to get everything up to temp. This is where the pinging and popping really helps.

 

Specifically from the cat bypass area if you listen close you can actually hear it light off. I notice it at the same time the probe thermometer starts to climb quickly. This is with the older style cats. I heard they changed them but I'm not positive on that I haven't replaced it in some time.

 

I assumed as much, taking that all into consideration my flue temps are higher then what you are seeing apparently.

 

My flue temps. are taken from inside the pipe with no stove pipe walls at all in the way and my flue temps. run under 400F. The Ideal Steel is an extremely efficient stove because it is build in vertical layers; the combustor is directly above the center of the firebox and so is able to stay 'lit' with relatively low firebox temperatures. Now I do have a deflector on the back of my radiator and it absolutely does reduce the flue gas temps. but even so, flue gas temps. on a stock I.S. will be well under 500F once running in a steady- state. What that means is that very little of the heat the wood is generating is thrown 'overboard' or up the stack- even with cat. temps. over 1,400F the flue gasses are amazing cool indicating that the stove has absorbed almost all of the heat from the wood.

 

No confusion here on the flue temps and where they are taken, mine are much higher then that running the stove at 500 to 550 stovetop.
Am i doing something wrong?

 

.
There is supposed to be some air in the firebox too, including a gap between the logs & the 2ndary air plate - the manual says 2 inches. Seems you're doing it right.

 

Ok gents, not happy with myself (sticking my head in the oven later) watched some older videos here and i am turning air down too early, the cat isnt stalling out i dont think but putting a chit ton of smoke through it. Tried to run it by the manual but maybe a few details i missed or are not there.
Dont understand the flue temps and i wish i could trust the cat probe.
Screw me!

 

Deja vous all over again.

 

Sounds like you need to read through this thread...very similar situation I think
Absolute Steel Owners, Please Help Me Learn How To Run This damm Thing!

 

I did, i think its the same but different.

 

I have a few more questions but its beer 30 now, did you ever hear the story about me getting kicked off the other wood burning site for asking too many questions?
One older video on here was very helpful, i was turning the air down way too quick.
Over and out.

 

Curious. When you decide your fire has been active enough, long enough, to close the bypass, activating the Cat, are you letting the fire run with full air for 5, 10, 15, minutes? Before reducing your air setting?
I believe that reducing the primary air setting too soon after engaging the Cat may not allow the Cat to get up to speed. So to speak. Possibly I have missed out on your routine... Explain how you are going about this startup/reload routine. If you have a moment!

Edit: I was typing when you last posted. Sounds like my suspicion has been confirmed. Ask away with questions here. Nothing to worry about. Best of luck getting the routine figured out.

Enjoy your suds

 

I dont even know where to start any more, i dont understand how the stove is supposed to work, am i supposed to see flames after air is reduced and i wonder why my flue temps are much higher then reported by some. Manual stated to close converter at 250 to 300 surface temp so is reducing the air going to lower that by a considerable amount.
Colder then hell here right now so thats not helping. I guess i will spend some time on the phone next week.

 

I do not think 'we' (the forum members) can really tell. ?? Really tough to understand what is happening at a remote place with only the typed word to go on. Being there in person would be a huge help but that is now how the forum thing works unfortunately. No one's fault of course, there are just so many variables that 'we' do not know. How is the firebox filled, how dry is the wood, what type of wood, size of the splits and so on. Another huge thing is that we all have different flue sizes and lengths as well as some masonry and some S.S. chimneys. I have used my I.S. on both an 8X8 masonry chimney as well as a S.S. 6" diameter, insulted chimney and it really does cause the stove to run entirely different. So I think the best that can be done is to give general advice but again, without a lot more knowledge I do not think 'we' can get you dialed in.

All of that said, I think everyone is happy to help such as we can. And there is a learning curve to most stoves, especially catalytic stoves IMO. A cast iron, pot bellied stove is very easy to run and does not have much in the way of quirks or unusual behavior and a half- dozen complete fires go a long way to running one pretty easily. Modern cat. stoves take a much longer learning curve and also are far more sensitive to how wet the wood is, and even the size and shape of the splits.

Keep at it and it will get easier I think.

 

Have you ever measured your draft...sure sounds like it could be high...seems to me I remember reading your previous saga(s) and you did check it...don't recall the results though...

 

Seems weird that you've had 3 stoves in a row that "don't work right"...although I'm not convinced that this one isn't just "new stove learning curve" yet...

 

Thats not quite correct, the summit was the only one that did not work correctly, reading many posts here it seems like several people have had issues for what ever reason getting this type of stove to work like they want it to. I'm already reading conflicting views on the subject here, the one thread has a ton of good info in it and some have flue temps more in line with mine.
Pretty sure i dont have too strong a draft.