If you are cutting a lot of wood larger than a 20" bar, yes. A longer bar allows you to cut in one swath. Longer bars are nice on lower cc saws to save the back when limbing/less bending etc. I try to run a bar slightly larger than the wood im cutting. Today it was a 12" on the top handle and 22" on the 500i. 20" maple largest diameter. I own several saws and bars so its nice to have that luxury. The thing i dislike about a longer bar as its easier to hit the ground when bucking. You could always invest in the longer bar and switch off as needed. Ive done that with just one saw on a cut.
I have a 16" and a 28" bar for my 362. I sport the 16" when I'm hustling cutting rounds and sport the 28" when the ladies are around.
Many highly experienced chainsaw users will say that a bar longer than 20" is too much for a 362. Sure, it can run a 24", but that it is "too much," especially regarding the amount of chain oil output, that the saw can't adequately oil the chain. For sure, you would need to adjust the screw for maximum oil output. I have a 362 and only recently got a 24" bar on it and the saw is ported, so, it's more powerful than stock. Time will tell if the oil output is "enough." I don't know if you can install a larger oil pump from a larger saw on a 362, on some saws, you can. You can get by with a 20" for bucking because I have done it for several years but for many, longer is better for bucking if the saw can handle it. You will also find people that say they have run a longer bar with no problems. If you are not bucking large logs, I'd stay with 20" using a 362. You could also do what I did just a few days ago, buy an ms400 and run the bigger bar! You could sell the 362.
The long bars are mostly for falling trees on hillsides and uneven ground. Just more reach to avoid finishing back cuts from the low side, and matching cuts without moving around the other side of the tree. It is alot easier to make mistakes with long bars, and any mistakes you make sharpening the chain will be compounded. Unless your cutting truly large trees 16-24 inch bars are really all a guy needs, and usually easier on the saw
I've been trying different saws with different bar lengths lately in an attempt to lessen back pain. I go between a 462cm with a 30" bar and a jonesred 2255 with a 20" bar. Im just talking about bucking for now. Unfortunately my back hurts after using either for an extended period of time. It is however two different types of pain. Not having to bend over to buck is rather nice. But having to hold a large saw and bar combo out away from your self does take its toll too. I'd say go for it and do some experimenting to see what works for you. My back issues are definitely due to a dickeydo situation and repetitive motions at previous jobs.
A longer bar also costs more as does the chain......and don't forget sharpening a longer bar too as that does not sound enjoyable to me, and it will be heavier to operate as Gavorosalini pointed out. Then you have to make sure that the powerhead can handle the larger bar. Last thing you want to do is spend all this money and then have the saw not operate optimally.
I let Ms. buZZsaw hold the 500i with a 36" bar I wanted her to hold it up for the pic, but she couldnt lift it!
I agree. I'm just starting out using saws...but currently in my inventory I have 16" on the Makita, 18" on the 028, and a 20" on the 034 S and for my basic bucking and trimming needs I have no need to increase the size of the bar.
I like skip tooth chain on longer bars for noodling and milling. Sharpening time is the same as a smaller chain with a full set of teeth.
I have a 362cm, the most powerful saw I own. I find myself occasionally bucking logs up to 40"+ so I when I got the saw I got the standard 25" bar (I already have a couple new 20" bars). I immediately set the bar aside and bought the Stihl light weight bar. Much better. I upped the oil and the saw performs fine in all sizes of logs. Less stooping for limbing and pulls fine in longer cuts. I have a 391 with a 20" bar that I use for general firewood and it really screams. If I didn't run into the larger logs occasionally I would probably stay with a 20" on the 362. I must add that I am cutting mostly softwoods like Doug Fir. The only hardwoods that I semi-regularly cut are Big Leaf Maple, medium to small Cherry and Madrone. None of these are notoriously hard to cut like maybe big Oak or Locust. To distill all this down I would say that if you opt for the longer bar because you occasionally have larger logs or want less stooping, then go for it. Get the lightweight bar for certain and open up the oiler! Keep your 20"er in reserve.
My thoughts ( backed with a dab of experience ) 50cc= 16" to 18" bar 60cc= 18" to 20" bar 70cc=20" to 24" bar 80cc and up = 28" to 32" 32" is as long as I have, 90 percent of my cutting is with a 60 or 70cc powerhead wearing a 20" bar
I agree but changed your post slightly. FWIW my logger buddies cutting high dollar hardwoods exclusively use 24" bars on MS 661 Magnums. Roller tips for the fellers and hard nosed on the landings.
I favor a longerish bar. A 28" is my favorite because I hate bending over or crouching down. Standing upright arms extended a 661 with 28" clears the ground perfectly. Also anything longer and carrying the saw one handed becomes nose heavy.
