TSC stove...King I believe...need help

I will ask him about this. I don’t know what the jumper is, let alone know if it is or isn’t hooked up. All I did is repeat what he told me to say and he said it was unhooked as I wrote above. Least I think that’s what I wrote.

This process would be easier if he would create and an account here on the forum, but I doubt he’ll do that. LOL! So, I’m stuck translating. LOL!

With everyone’s help I will manage to get him straightened out. LOL!


Thanks again gang!!!

 

Actually, this unit does have the remote.

 

Well,it probably s the latest version,and this is from that manual--

 

Looks like he needs to study his manual then. LOL! As in read it, then read it again, and again. LOL!

The manual is AT HIS house...and I didn’t bother reading it myself when I was there. Thankfully I didn’t have to since y’all got us straightened out on the code settings. LOL!

By the way, I wonder why they didn’t include all those codes and their setting in the manual? Crazy!

Even crazier...I wonder why they set those stoves to run at 4lbs/hr as a factory setting? Nuts!!

 

That post worth its weight in gold.

My uncle is reading these posts. We both really appreciate the help.

You guys are awesome help.

 

I hope he realizes that is a big stove,and, when running properly, will put out lots of heat.

 

Because you (and everyone here) are looking out for folks, and don't want to see "bad things happen to good people" ... due to an improper install.

Hopefully the Uncle will read the manual / treat this stove with respect / that Hoytman can help him w/ improving the existing setup.

Happy New Year to you David.

 

I sealed all of his pipe joints with the mew Rutland latex 900* black sealant which helped with the smoke.

The biggest help with not smoking up the room was fixing the auger run time at start-up.

There was an initial small amount of smoke into the room, however, on start-up. Nothing to be bothersome, rather, an annoyance. And I did see where it was coming from...the first connection out the back of the stove. Just a small puff at start-up. Once it was warm it was fine.

We will address this at some point in the future. There some red fuzzy looking gasket or something back there. Was sort of hard to see with the lighting.

EDIT:
Oh wait! I think corncob mentioned that fuzzy red gasket. I need to read his entire post again...so does my uncle.

 

Yep. He said if it’s too big it goes out his his BIG shop. There...I know it will work.

 

brenndatomu,
If that is anything like fuel injected lug nuts, then I’m on to it.




Clean fire, thanks for the help.

 

The jumper is installed at the factory across the 2 terminals in the stove that could be hooked to a stat if the owner so desired. It allows the stove to run normally but w/o any room temp control. If the owner wants to add a stat, he simply removes the jumper wire, and install the 2 leads from the stat into the same terminals. Voila! Temperature control....it seems in this case, it simply switches between low (after stat temp has been reached in the room), and then the pre-set heat range when the stat calls for heat.

 

So...I asked my uncle how the stove ran last night. Here is his reply...

...”Well somehow it went from .99 lbs per hour to 4.5 sometime last night. I’m thinking when codes are changed they all need to be sure that they were changed. It burned all those pellets in 16 hours. Had I able to get up and check it, I would have noticed and changed it. 80 lbs of pellets divided by 16 hours =4.5 or 5 lbs an hour. Which is the default factory setting. lol.”

 

Should have been 100 degrees in his house!
I'm not up on the settings for that unit.

 

Oddly enough it wasn’t that hot. Actually, I don’t think it got above 76F on thermostat behind the stove on the wall. Just confirmed that.

 

Any idea how to set the thing so it doesn’t run out of pellets in 16 hrs. It wasn’t that cold here to eat that many.

 

If I had to guess .. 4.5 lb/hr is the setting for Heat Range (HR) 5. Thermostat control is 'jumping' between "satisfied" (HR-1) and "commanded on" (HR-5).

From above post: parameter C3 allows adjusting the HR-5 lb/hr setting: HR 1-4 are then divided evenly between. ( IIRC, you can't adjust/tweak the "individual" HR settings on this stove. )

Your uncle can try unhooking the Thermostat, and running ( Manual ) mode, HR-2 ( 1.8 lb/hr ) or HR-3 ( 2.7 lb/hr ) to see what the room temps. at those settings correspond to.

Or "de-tune" the HR-5 setting to 2.5 - 3.0 lb/hr, and adjust settings to his liking, e.g.: each setting increase affords a .5 lb/hr increase in pellet feed rate.

Venting may also be playing a role: this stove -likes- a straight 12-24" horizontal pipe out -> of the stove outlet, to a single (1) 90" elbow, and up to the termination cap. * Although pellet stoves are "Negative pressure" ( forced air ) inside the stove, once the exhaust passes beyond the stove outlet into the venting: Natural Draft takes over. Hot exhaust gas mixes w/ cold air spill coming in from the vent exit ("termination cap"), creating a pressure differential, and inducing draft. ... This is no different than a "traditional" wood burning stove.

I would try to "de-tune" the stove HR settings to something saner, e.g 2.5 or 3.0, to find the stove's "sweet spot", where it is burning efficiently, and not wasting fuel: where heat is going up the flue.

 

Thank you for that information. I will make sure my uncle reads it.

Since your post he sent me a text saying he may have figured out what happened.

The installation is through a large window and he had the thermostat near that window where it is colder. I seen it and never gave it a thought that near the window is cold. Duh! Anyway, he had his wife turn the thermostat up some but the stat was still reading it was colder near the window than in the room.

That thermostat has a short cord on it and needs a longer one. He had her turn the thermostat back down to where we had programmed to run and now he’s going to monitor room temperature on an inside wall of his large room. This way, regardless what the stat says he can run the stove in low to meet his needs until he can get a longer cord for the thermostat...or at least move it away from the window...then use an additional room thermometer somewhere in the middle of the home to run the stove by. That should help him quite a bit. He’ll monitor it over the night and see how many pellets it eats. He may still need to pay attention to your post.

He may be better off running in manual. That’s for him to decide though.

 

How old,cold and leaky is his house? Also,very important, that is a big stove. So,when running in hi-low mode, you actually can get little heat from it,mostly because room fan slows down, BUT, being a big stove,will use a ton of pellets. On-off mode is way more efficient, unless it is real cold out. Also, is possible you have too much draft/air. Some stoves the combustion blower speed is adjustable, some have a damper, some have nothing.

 

Not a cord, it's a paired wire in insulation and available by the foot at just about any hardware store or box store and I imagine on line on Amazon as well.

Cords go on appliances. wires go on T'stats.

 

The size of any unit is inconsequential in fuel usage. it's the feed rate that determines fuel consumption. As a rule, I run my distribution fan on maximum all the time and adjust the feeding rate so the thermostat will cycle the stove in conjuction with my central furnace. I always want both to cycle but the cemtral furnace to cycle the least. I never rely on my bio mass stove as a sole source of het, bad business and a great way to freeze your buns off if it fails.