Engine overheat help

Hard to tell from behind my desk! (Cue Flintstones, "It's a living!") But the point of a vacuum fill tool is that it leaves little doubt. The downside would be that you have to drain all the coolant to do the fill process.

What I'm concerned about is that the issue appeared out of the blue, (not after some coolant system work) and that you seem to be able to get it working fine and then the issue returns. If you were paying me to figure it out, I'd do the pressure test (because it's cheap/fast/easy), and pull the plugs. If the plugs are indicating coolant getting into the cylinders (bright white insulators), I'd recommend the teardown, especially if the pressure test was a fail or marginal. If there was any doubt at that point, the combustion gas presence test would be next up, prior to the tear-down.

Everybody's situation is different, but in general, it's not worth it to half-azz a head-gasket repair. Most engines (including/especially a Subaru) these days are a fair bunch of labor to get them torn down and there's a few little parts that will get replaced "while you're in there". It'll hurt more than 2x bad if you have to repeat the job, just in lost time. I'd want some actual assurance that it's a gasket issue, and more often than not, those come from other mechanical issues (like a warped head) on engines that have not been touched since new. Since this is a Subie, you'll have two heads to worry about, and if some event has caused this head gasket to fail, the opposite side is likely to follow suit sooner rather than later. You don't have to do both gaskets right now, but you should be prepared for that eventuality and you should ask how much labor you would save by checking the other head now, with the engine torn down. If this is a vehicle you must rely on, send the heads to a reputable automotive machine shop to have it inspected for cracks/leaks and the deck surface restored. The deck surfaces of the block can be checked with a precision straight-edge and feeler gauge after being cleaned up. Anything less is gambling, and too many shops are plenty willing to gamble with your money.

You'll know better than most what the car would be worth to you with the engine back at 100%. At 112k, what else is wrong with it? Has it been well-maintained or is it a "beater with a heater"? If the car isn't really worth doing both head gaskets - I'd probably try the K&W.

 

Head gasket leak, water pump and timing belt along with the radiator

 

It seems, so I'll probably do it. The water pump and timing belt go about this time anyway and i knew that when i bought it

 

Basically exhaust gases in the coolant.

 

Well, I'm getting put through the ringer! Been driving the F250 to work for the past week+ since the lezbaru is down. First time ever.... today Left turn signal blinking fast, ok needs a bulb. That stopped happening, went out for lunch, right turn signal blinking fast, i thought, oh no, now what. Heading back from lunch, turn signals back to normal..... Fast forward, driving home tonight, ya know it's dark, both turn signals blinking fast, 2 ppl flash me with their lights, im like WTH is going on! Get home, Ive got no rear running lights, no brake lights, no rear turn signals, and no liscense plate lights. Yeh! Another vehicle im crawling through the snow trying to find a short in the dark with a headlamp! No luck but to pizzed to look any further!

It could be anything, and electrical aint my thing really. These Fords have at least 2 common wear points that i heard of, both up front near the driver headlight and another driver tire area. Ford has decent scematics (sp?) for the techs, but i couldnt find any. Local ford dealer whom i actually know and trust booked out nearly 2 weeks so I have yet another problem to solve before then.

Chit is coming in waves here boys..... But it is what it is.,