I'd like to build a holz hausen, but the only lawn I have remaining for wood stacking is significantly uneven. In any 8' circle, I'm probably dealing with an 8-12" slope from one side to another. I can think of two approaches: 1) Make a base of pallets set on blocks, then use the blocks to level the ballets. Advantage here is that it would start pretty level. Disadvantage is that the pressure of the stack is concentrated on the blocks, potentially increasing settling. The advantage is that all the wood is up off the ground and not rotting. 2) Make a base using splits, then use splits/chunks/whatever to level everything up. Advantage is that the pressure of the stack is distributed over a greater area, hopefully leading to less settling. Disadvantage is that I have a bunch of wood in contact with the ground that will likely be lost. How would you approach this situation?
I have to stack on uneven ground from time to time. (never have done a HH) Ill either level the pallets as i go or building a full size frame out of 2x lumber, level that then put pallets on top this way here its more stable. Just did it that with a stack behind my shed (pics soon)
Just keep it simple. Just lay the pallets flat on the ground and use shims as needed to maintain a downward angle. You will have most likely one layer of splits then depending on how sloped it is relative to the size of your stack, maybe 1 layer of shims, then maybe 1 or 2 layers of splits......just keep using shims till you get that downward angle. And by shims I mean splits turned sideways like your first row of splits you used to make the circle.
You can see a shim on this stack of mine about 1/3 of the way down at 10 o'clock on the right stack and 2 shims on the left stack.
I tarp the tops of stacks that are ready for the current season. Started tarping around late oct. Tarps are held down by splits with c-hooks screwed into them. First pic is a half used stack which is already done now. Second is a full stack of ash. Tarps are usually 8 x 11 but I think this one is is 9x11, thus the extra bit hanging over. Import to keep sides open so the stack can breathe.
The last pic I posted is on a slope. I was not diligent enough with the shims and one stack partially collapsed twice. Learned my lesson. So use shims liberally and make sure to step back a few feet so you can gauge the angle better. Sometimes if you are too close you think you're good but you're not. I'm also slowly transitioning to plastic pallets. I made the mistake of using some plywood pallets and even with air holes drilled they soak up way too much water and disintegrated quickly. Luckily I have a source of unlimited plastic pallets for free.
Thanks, LordOfTheFlies , that's really helpful to see. It hadn't occurred to me that I didn't necessarily need to level the pallets since the stack can be built to compensate for a slope. That makes the decision to use pallets much easier. Now to find some plastic ones.
I use the thin, bark covered splits as shingles. I kind of dome the wood in the center, and make a roof of sorts. Sometimes when a large piece of bark sloughs off a round, I will grow that on too. when I dismantle my hausen, some of my shingles will have dried enough for the bark to come off when am handling it. Those bare shingles become kindling
Good luck! Just remember that downard angle towards the center is what gives the hausen the stability - everything leans on everything else. Maintain that negative slope and you will be all set. I tried that too but ended up just leaving the tops "open". I didn't like having to resplit those shibgle pieces and I find it's just a bit easier having the tarp there which I can peel off any section I want whenever I want. Plus it does a better job of keeping water out. Relatively cheap about $11 at harbor freight.
Here's what my plastic pallets look like. Notice I leave a gap in between them. I use 4 per stack. The gap is to make the diameter bigger and also adds some airflow channels underneath. During fall the pallets can get clogged up with leaves and this allows me to stick the blower under there and clear it out some. Make sure you do that first ring of splits in a circle. That creates the first downward angle for the splits.
