Stihl 034 Super AV EQ

Not for me. Once you do a couple hundred with a screwdriver, pliers, or a pick it becomes second nature

 

Same here...once you do it 5 or 10 times it gets easier...only thing to worry about once you get good at it is keeping hold of the lil buggers if they pop out...can really go flying...hard to find too!
I don't know what the rest of you do, but I was taught to have the gap of the circlip facing either straight down or straight up...not to the front or rear...supposedly on these high strung 2 smokes the sudden stop at TDC and BDC during WOT can make them "collapse" and come out...dunno, but it always sounded like good practice to me!

 

Great job! Check the depth on the fw side. Was that where it was for you originally? Many stihl’s are flush to the case on that side, but 034/036 and 064s typically get sent a bit more. I’ll try to get a pic of a case plus the install tool.
I’ve always used a modified screwdriver to install clips. However, I had the opportunity to buy an OEM 10mm kit for less than dealer cost so I bought it. I’ve done two saws and it’s easy. The problem is that you’d need other sizes depending on the wrist pin diameter. If you get into saws, you still need to learn a proper procedure for circlips or else you’ll be buying multiple tools.

 

This case is rough but one can see the seal area. There’s some wiggle room due to the fw configuration but it’s tight if not sent home.

Stihl seal driver

 

Plus a pic of the circlip tool.

 

Same routine on circlip gap for me. Gap straight up was my normal method. I have a straight screwdriver with a notch that I made years ago for circlips. Works fine.

 

Thanks for the feedback.

Yeah I was trying to cover the top of the clip with my hand to prevent it from disappearing. I saw a video on the gap being up or down. Honestly I was just trying to get the damm thing in there!!

Thanks. Couldn't have done it without all of you guys' help. Knock on wood I hope it stays put!

I checked the manual on the seal installation. They talk about using the press tool to install it so that doesn't really help. The other thing is that most of the time I do follow the "how-was-it-installed-before-you-put-a-new-part-in" philosophy but this saw was definitely handled incorrectly by someone.....multiple times....so I don't know if looking at the old picture should be trusted 100% blindly. That said, here is a pic of the before that I found and it does look like it needs to go further in. I did notice that the rubber part of the seal was raised slightly higher than the case. I will find a socket that will fit and tap it until it hits the seal it looks like. Thank you for pointing that out.

 

I find a thumb over the whole works is pretty useful too

 

Yep.
That tool I showed is the press tool. That’s the seal depth on 1125 series. Again, you may be ok.
This one:

 

After looking through the manual I think I have made a (big) mistake. I noticed the "Servicing Aids" page and I did not use any sealant for the crankcase gasket. It also mentions that you should use grease for the seals but I did not use that either. Just lubed it up with Stihl's ultra 2-stroke oil.

Am I going to need to split the case again???

 

Yup, start one end in, get your thumb on it, the use a small flatblade screwdriver to work the other end in...

 

No sealant needed for the case gasket. I use it… but I deal with rough cases a lot.
Two stroke oil is fine instead of grease.

 

Thank you! Now I can sleep tonight.

 

Sleep well! You did a great job, man.

 

The thumb is a must. Or “PIIIING”, followed by some choice 4 and 6 letter words

 

When I did a 362 recently, I didn't get the PTO side seal in far enough and didn't know it till I did a vacuum / pressure test with a mighty vac. Vacuum was OK, but pressure was bleading off. I could hear the PTO side seal leaking under pressure. I had it flush with the bearing step, but the seal was right at the step in the crankshaft. I drove it on in another .020" or so and all was fine. I couldn't tell very well from your picture, but just ensure that the seal is down over that step in the crank.

That vacuum / pressure test saved me a ton of work if I would have finished assembly and then discovered the leak. This test is an easy one to not do and most times you may be OK, but if there is a leak, it sure is way easier to find with a tester.

Good luck with the rest of it.

 

Thanks for the tip! Do you have a picture of before and after by any chance? Just curious to see.

Thanks!

Yes we've all done the crawl-on-our-knees-can't-see-a-damm-thing-try-waving-a-magnet-qround-and-sometimes-you-get-lucky-method, eh?? Yeah I was petrified it would shoot out never to be seen again and kept the thumb there as best as I could.

I've ordered the seal presses. I probably should have ordered them a long time ago. Must be super annoying if you work on a bunch of different saws to have seal presses for each one/series.

 

I didn't take any pix during this part of the build... darnit... Just ensure that the blue part of the seal touching the crankshaft is on the larger portion of the shaft and down past the step by several thousands instead of right at the edge of the step. The vacuum / pressure test is a good thing for more than just the crank seals. It also ensures the case gasket integrity along with the seal at the bottom of the jug, especially if you have removed the base gasket. It verifies everything in the engine is sealed all at once and allows any issues to be caught when it's easy to remedy before full assembly with a dissapointing result.

Seals can be driven with sockets or other odds and ends laying around the shop. I'd rather spend money on a vacuum tester than seal drivers. It's a much more versatile tool.

 

What vacuum tester do you have? Since I have 2 saws and might help my tree guy fix up a bunch of his saws, it might be wise to get one. And since I'm in no rush to put this together (obviously) I don't mind waiting. I have no more wood to chop and have a ton of work to do with the lathe hahahaha. But I will replenish the stacks that I burn. I haven't started a fire yet but it's getting chilly!

 

They make a less expensive plastic version but I've heard horror stories of the handles breaking and other pieces snapping off on those so I opted for the old fashioned metal version. I'm carful with my tools, but something like this that I will use the rest of my life, I'd rather have the better quality.