After all the rain we've had, my dirt driveway is a mess. Deep ruts, getting really washed out. So, I need to do something. I thought I had ground asphalt being delivered, but that deal fell through, so looking for an alternative. I have a quarry not too far away, so gravel can be delivered. And, I have a skid steer and roller/compactor ready to show up when I want. So, what am I after? To do the whole drive and the neighbors, I had the asphalt figured at about 55 yards- 4" depth. What I'm concerned about is the rock and snow blower in the winter. And future erosion issues. Anyone do driveways? Thanks, JB- I'll check in later.
Hey beetle I use a local large landscape company for gravel and dirt. They are very cheap… For a gravel driveway to be done correctly its very time consuming however worth it in the end! A compactor is needed and at least an inch of sand under the gravel for proper drainage. If you want it to last a long time them line the sides with treated timbers rated for in ground 100 year life span. This is actually achieved in todays world and the lumber is so good they use it in foundations because it will last longer than block with fewer issues. ( I have researched heavily on the subject ) This is also why most treated lumber now comes with a lifetime warranty against termites and fungal attack. Anyways back on track line the driveway all the way down with timbers on each side to retain the dirt then compact 1 to 2 inches sand nice and tight. spread the gravel preferably limestone over the top and compact that down in layers. When your done the driveway will last forever as long as you spray it once or twice a year for weeds. Limestone has the added benefit that it packs down hard as concrete after a couple years of regular use. Gravel is also good but it likes to wonder and not pack well. That is my experience with the two from when I worked for a contractor. There are still drives and sidewalks we did 15 years ago that look like new today done with limestone the gravel drives are good but they have ruts in them.
I had a gravel driveway. It was dusty, and on the steeper parts runoff ditches still occurred. Still better than mud!
If you can find metal slag, not the green shiny stuff the limestone looking stuff it is great. We get it locally $18 ton, and that stuff never breaks down. When we installed our drive we used road mat first, then 3 and 4's and and then 57. Now we have a mix of everything on our drive limestone slag, and river gravel just bought whatever was the cheapest. Our driveway has held up real good and haven't added stone for a while. I have been thinking about those asphalt grindings, but waiting on a buddy to get me a price. We have a 350' drive so it takes a good bit of upkeep.
What types of materials are near you? Doesn't seem like you're in limestone territory, but that would be best. Asphalt millings make a really good driveway, as well. Steel slag is good, but really expensive around here. Contractors like to use it under pavers because it compacts well, yet still drains. In Michigan, we have a grade of limestone called 21A, which is 1 1/2" rocks down to dust. It compacts very well, and can become like concrete if done properly (like Pete's). Washed limestone doesn't pack at all, but a thin layer is nice sometimes for a top dressing. But your snow blower would scatter that all over. Road gravel sucks. It's a mixture of sand, clay, and natural stone. Some counties around here use it if limestone isn't nearby. Gravel is cheap, trucking limestone in is expensive. Gravel roads don't hold up well at all, and I would only use it as a very last resort. Of course, this is all kinda foggy. I haven't hauled any of that stuff in quite a few years.
Local quarry is granite and quartz, not much else. I'll get back into this tomorrow, I'm freakin' whooped right now, been a heck of a day. Thanks all, check in later. JB
I just dumped another 16 tons about month ago. But this time it was the small stuff, I'm hoping it will pack down. Since my drive was basically nonexistant and one vehicle wide about 8 years ago. I've dumped 48 tons of 3/4-1/2" rock over that course. I loose some in the winter, while blading off the snow. I'm hoping that this will pack down tighten enough to keep the loss down.
jeff_t we must have the same grading system because in Virginia we have 21a but it is more commonly known as crusher run. 1 1/2" down to dust. 7/10ths of a mile drive. I have gotten 168 tons of crusher run in one go.
Beetle if you have any grade on your drive you are going to want a larger stone as a base to resist washout, Here that would be #3. Then #21a or crusher run as a top coat, and if you wanted to get tidy #57 or #63 washed stone on top of that. Ditches are key, the road down to my barn got hammered when we had 2 5" rain events this spring. I went in with the T190 and re ditched and put down a couple loads of #3 and it should be good for a long time again.
In Ohio, it is (was?) 304. Maybe it is more standardized now? Built a 1500' driveway once that took ~2000 tons. We were dumping 4x8" stone in the big hole. They wanted bigger rock, but that was the biggest we were hauling in aluminum boxes. This once in April, as soon as weight limits were lifted. Had the property owner waited a month or so, he could have saved probably $10k, or more. 168 tons is only three loads in one of the trucks I used to drive
Pete's description of a gravel drive is a really good one. Here in Maine, if you were going across a field, the drive area might be taken down a foot for drainage first, then gravel brought in to about a foot above grade, then roll packed. It will hold up and last a long time. Many here just put the gravel on top of the sod field with the only packing being the trucks and bulldozer leveling it. Doesn't last as long and the dirt silt works it's way in quick. But Pete's idea of using PT to keep the sides from being infiltrated with silt over the years (blocking drainage) is a great idea. Have never heard of that here.
That was before every cellular phone had a camera and everyone took pictures of everything for no apparent reason. I had a 700 pixel digital camera, with a memory card that held about 3 pictures. It cost about $700 though, so it didn't go in the truck. I did carry a disposable for the cool stuff, like a train wreck where we hauled a chit ton of stone in to set the crane on. So......blah, blah, blah Set up like this, but nowhere close to shiny. The train I had was one of the last super trains Fruehauf built.
I like to use #53's on top of whatever fist sized stuff you can get for cheap on driveways. The high lime powder contents packs down nicely. If you can track it in with a dozer, back-drag, and repeat if will be almost as hard and flat as asphalt.
Thanks for all the input. My drive is on a slope, all down hill and has a few curves. The neighbors slopes steeply towards their bridge, prob. 9-12 deg. down. This is the area that needs the most help. Our drives are dirt with lots of rock. You can't believe the rocks I kick around, just to mow the drives. Ditches are not feasible for this location. I don't think burying PT timbers is either-(great idea though, already turned that onto a friend who has a flatter drive) I think this may take a while to fix, rolling "X" size rock and following up with "Y" size rock after a bit of time passes. Just don't know. I'd still love to spread some ground asphalt and roll it, but it's not easy to find at a price I can afford right now.
Thank Thank you for the thread. We will be doing the same this spring. It's like monters trucks spinning wheels out here from all the mud.
If you put filter cloth down than a larger stone like #2 and than cr6 (crush and run) that should hold up well. Just don't put it down excessively thick. Kind of the same principle as a construction entrance. If you could top that with milling it should hold up well. 57 stone is OK but will stay loose and wash out easily. Anyone ever put milling down roll them and than seal coat? Just wondering if that would bind it together or make a huge mess.
