Hi Guys - So this weekend I took a brand new 32" loop of X-cut chain () and proceeded to cut it up to make a ripping chain for my chainsaw mill. This is my first attempt to duplicate the granberg chain, two scoring cutters followed by two full cutters. Reprofiled the cutters to 10° (may play with that). Now I need to set the rakers. From what I can find, the granberg chain has the rakers for the scoring cutters at about .040 and the full cutters at .025. I have a depth gage that i can use to set the .025, but how would I go about measuring/setting for a .040 depth? Any ideas? thanks!! J
Feeler gauges and a straight edge. Or set them all at .025” on the grinder and then lower the grinder depth knob about 1 hour on the clock to redo the scoring rakers
A quick response, ie not much thought, would be to do all the. 025" ones and take a caliper to the chain and sneak up to the. 040". Take some tape and a sharpie and make a mark on the depth knob where you start and stop. The degrees of the turn required should be relatively consistent. The knob has bumps molded in so I spose you could just figure the feed per bump.
I mill with full chisel chain filed to about 15 degrees top plate angle. For the long bar it's full skip. Milled a bunch with very good success. Never tried dedicated ripping chain. From what I understand it goes quite a bit slower.
Hmmmm, that's interesting. Well, what I ended up doing, since I started with a brand new chain, I made the azz-umption that the rakers were already at .025. So I lowered the grinder head down with the knob until I just kissed off on the top of the raker and called that "zero". I grabbed at .015 feeler gage and put it under the stop post and again, brought the head down (leaving feeler gage in place) until I touched off on my raker. I pulled the gage and and in theory I have an additional .015 of down travel from my original zero. I ground down the scoring cutter rakers, hit them with a file to take the sharp corner off and am calling it good. I did break down and purchase CBN grinding wheels instead of using the stock wheels. OUCH, pricey. I also hit amazon up for a carbide endmill cutter. I have one of those x-y adjustable vises that I'm going to re-attach to my drill press and instead of using a grinder to make the scoring cutters, cut them off with the end mill cutter so I can control the width a little more closely. I basically eye-balled them with a cut-off wheel. I have no idea how critical that will be or not.
Do to the locations of the fulcrum, stop and wheel centerline I'm not so sure that the stop setting is 1 on 1 in regards to travel.
