Been mulling over box wedge design for quite awhile. Seen most of the variations out there. Weighed pros and cons to each,,,,,in my head. I have a twist on a design I’m considering. IMO most of the force required will be the horizontal plate that makes first contact. I know some manufacturers have a swept design to alleviate that somewhat. My concern with the swept is it only works well if the round splits along that line, otherwise it’s getting shaved off by the wedge. I’m toying with the idea of a straight horizontal but with teeth. Let’s say every other two inches. In between would be another sharp tooth of course but set back,,,,,maybe 1 1/2” or so. My thought is the teeth contacting at the same time will help force the round to split along the same axis. While the less surface area of the plate will allow the wedge to more easily penetrate the round initially and promote splitting over cutting. Thinking of a straight wedge going straight across a round. That initial force to penetrate and split must be great. And a little violent when it succumbs. Thinking the teeth idea would ease it through that first/ hardest step. welcome your opinions on this and any aspect of box wedge design. Thanks.
of Every wedge I’ve seen, I’ve never seen a serrated edge like your describing. Although I think what your trying to describe and I might be misinterpreting. Usually box wedges are set up, so that each major splitting direction are set back an inch. I built a box wedge with stages and having each stage flared to keep splits from wedging in the boxes. The angle of the cutting wedge provided enough deflection. And sometimes having a knife edge vs a spitting edge is better. If you get a knarly knotty piece will be better if it is knifed through vs split. The point of a box is for consistent splits every time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes all the different wedges are set back in stages. It’s the first main horizontal that I’m speaking of. And in a way adding stages to that also in an attempt to ensure a possibly underpowered splitter will have no problem in that first stage.
If an under powered splitter cannot get the first stage to split, then how would it ever split with a standard single wedge. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It’s a good question but there’s a difference. A straight box wedge horizontal can be 24” or more wide. That’s quite a bit of knife of knife to get started. Imagine using a machete and sledge hammer to split wood compared to a wedge and sledge hammer. It’s that first initial contact I wish to lessen/soften. Same reason they put teeth on a backhoe bucket.
In that same theory, useing a standard or underpowered splitter, let’s say the wedge that it came with was 24” tall same shape and everything. The force to split a log of the same diameter would be negligible. Or to put it another way, the same 24” diameter log will require the same force to split wether the wedge is 24” tall or 10” tall. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Not to my way of thinking. The wedge sinking into the wood is what starts the splitting process. Once the process begins it usually goes much easier. At 24” your just using more power to begin sinking that wedge. Toss a knot into that scenario. By your logic backhoe buckets wouldn’t have teeth. They are designed to begin breaking the soil in front of the bucket lip increasing the digginG power. Granted a few backhoes have buckets with no teeth. Designed for precise depth digging in softer soils etc.
I think a "toothed" edge would work well, but would bend too easily. And when it comes to teeth on a bucket, its all about PSI...same pressure from the machine, but dispersed across a smaller surface area gives higher PSI to the dirt (or wood, if splitting)
I’ll agree on the psi and bucket teeth. In reality it’s the same thing I’m saying just said differently. The smaller surface area and more power gets the job going faster and easier. As for bending wedge teeth, haven’t gIVen it much thought because I’m not too worried about it. Certainly is something to consider and mull over a bit. They’ll be closely supported by the inner teeth. Let’s say set back one inch. All welded together. On the plus side they’ll be at least close to perfectly inline with the center of the ram so they won’t be subjected to much lateral pressures like some multi wedge designs. Beyond whatever the grain is doing it’s mostly a straight push into it. Conversely let’s say you have a set of wedge wings 5” above centerline of ram. They receive quite a bit of lateral force and transfer that to the ram too. Toying with the idea of putting a slight bevel on the bottom cutter of the inner teeth. My thought is it may help to keep the round running straight by putting a little downward force on any cutting action. Cuttings a good thing but with one sided cutters they like to run crooked. Like slicing a tomato with a some serrated blades sharpened on one side. They like to run crooked. A slight bevel I’m thinking would be akin to “politely asking” the round to stop cutting in a crooked fashion and self correct itself. That ideas still bubbling in the pot LOL
