Any body have welder Daves telephone number lol He know the fishers better than any one I know Does it cause build up in the stove pipe or flew to shut a stove down and hold a fire for 8 + hours with seasoned wood ? Im sure this is going to be a yes but I have no idea how not to do this. Also does using pine kindling from the crate shop from place I work at cause build up if the drafts are wide open to heat the stove and flew up?
There is a post you should check out.(sorry don't know how to add link). It old blaze king stove add baffle? just type that or part of it the search engine for the forum. Some questions like that were asked/answered.
This is the thread JetJr was talking about http://firewoodhoardersclub.com/forums/index.php?threads/old-blaze-king-stove-add-baffle.713/
GRIZ, Adam put up the picture of my baffle installation in my Baby bear. It's the same in "all" the Fishers, weather top draft or back draft. Your objective is to get a more complete burn and the baffle does this by disrupting/diverting the flow. I've been busy since I got back but I haven't forgotten about it. I'll get you some pictures of my Grandma baffle. The important thing is to get the correct sq in distance and thats easy to figure but I'll just give the measurements. You want to have 4" from the first curve to the front of the baffle. This way you do not restrict the flow of hot gas "but" get a complete burn in the fire box. Also, use a plate 3/8" to 1/2" If you go lighter you may get some warpage (not a big deal) but it wont absorb the heat well and distribute it to the sides of the stove "what you want".... I don't have a picture of the Kodiak, but it's exactly the same as the Baby bear pics. There is also a way to install a baffle without welding in angle iron, you can set the plate on fire bricks but IMO welding is better!
