Answer me these questions three...

What is your Quest??? -

Ok, so I needed a new chain for my 450. 325/.050. My local farm and fleet no longer has Husky parts as they have gone exclusively Stihl. So I look through the chain selections (Oregon), find a chain for a 20" bar, with the correct gage/pitch throw it in the cart.

I get home, go to throw the new chain on the bar and WTH, its too short. I have a Husky bar on the chainsaw. Is it to short because its a husky bar not an Oregon bar? I wouldn't think it would matter as long as gage/pitch are ok.

Just when I thought I was figuring all this out, I get a curveball. Can some one clear this up for me... <confused>

 

You need to match the correct drive links as well......

Your bar should state the chain you need near the mount holes.

 

Your bar should be stamped with the appropriate chain size on it. Bar length doesn’t really mean beans, it’s the drive link count that is important. You may have the .325” & .050” right but most likely the drive links are different. Homeowner bar vs Farm/Ranch bar or pro bar.

 

JRHAWK9 beat me to it.

 

What is the air-speed velocity of an unladen swallow?
What do you mean? An African or European swallow?

 

What is the air-speed velocity of an unladen swallow?
Well Monty: 20.1 mph for the European Swallow

 

3 specs for proper chain fitment. Pitch, gauge and drive links.

 

Could be packaged wrong also. I've never had a problem with Oregon chains matching up.

 

The 450 is a great saw. It takes a .325 , .050, with 80 drive links. I find my 450 is able to maintain rpm better with a skip tooth.

 

Drive links are the key. I used to buy Oregon chain for my old Ms290 and it was DL67. Bought so many of those. Now with multiple saws, bar lengths, gauges, pitches etc it can get confusing. Ill label the scabbards with this info even if i swap bars among the saws.
Can you bring it back?

 

I was able to bring the chain (a 2 pack no less) back and they refunded me. Guess I'll have to look closer at the bar and see what I have. This is the first time I've had an issue. Better lucky than good I guess. LOL

 

Just an FYI. Husky chain is (or at least used to be anyway) made by Oregon. You can run Stihl chain (or any other brand for that matter) as long as it meets the same specs as what the bar calls for. The chain required is tied to the bar, not the saw. Just as long as the pitch between the sprocket on tip of the bar and the sprocket on the saw matches that is.

 

Husky now makes its own chain. Reports are it’s very good as I’ve yet to try a loop. I kinda hoarded LGX and some Stihl so not sure when I’ll ever get to.

 

Good to know, thanks. I've never ran Husky chain......all I've run is Oregon, LPX, LGX or BPX. may try some Duracut DPX loops next time I want a semi-chisel.

M72DPX068 18

 

I'm running the x-cut chain (I think that is their new chain) on my 572. Out of the box, it ran really great 'till I rocked it cutting a stump. Stupid rocks. I saw it, went to avoid it and it JUMPED out of the ground and into my bar.

 

Not all 20" bars are exactly 20 inches. There are differences in lengths but are still referred to as 20 inch bars. That is why everyone is saying you need to know the number of drive links.

 

Also differences in height of the bar as well......causing the taller ones to need more links.

 

Thats what they all say!

 

Well crap, I got all excited to see someone wanting some Duracut then I see you need 68dl & here I am trying to unload 60 & 66dl Duracut.

 

That link was just a random one. I guess I'm intrigued why you want to unload them? The saw I would run it on would be 66DL IIRC....0.325 and can't remember what gauge.