This is good advice. Rods are reasonably cheap. This is a great “farm” welder. We call them buzzboxes. Run a few beads and you will see what I mean. Last spring we rebuilt a dock on the big lake around here with Miller welders version of the same welder that you have. I used mostly 7018 ac rod and some 6011 where I needed to burn through more rust. It was adequate to the task, but if it were possible to get an engine drive welder down there, I would much preferred welding DC. We ran my 100 foot leads off of the old Miller Thunderbolt which was jury rigged into the electrical panel where a pump was wired. That old craftsman welder is not worth much to sell, but is a great machine to learn on and is certainly capable of doing a lot of fabrication and repair. Enjoy!
I have 2 gas welders, it's all I run is 1/8" 6011 and 7018. I put down "Miles" of bead with 6010 also. Works as a good back hand boiler tube rod which I did lots of also. I made a rod oven out of an old small refriderator that was tossed to the curb, and drilled a hole on the back and put a 75watt light bulb in it. "Instant rod oven"
I went out and looked at the rods earlier. There were 6011, 6013, and 7018. The 7018's are in a metal can and its totally full....they look to be ok. The others are in a box and just out laying on the cart, some of them are trash as the coating's coming off.
All good rods. As has been mentioned the 6011 is great for repair and all position welds. 6013 and 7018 are super smooth welding rods designed more for flat position and clean steel welds.
After posting this am i found an article that explained the numbers, and well, all kinds of other greek stuff about welding...
Actually, 7018 is an all position rod, and a good one. When I certified on structural, on the job, we used 6010 for the root on the plates and the fill and cap were 7018. We had to do a vertical and an overhead plate. Actually, 6010 and 7018 were our most common electrods. We also used 70 series wire feeds for general fabrication.
Eckie , There is "numerous" types of welding and types of materials you can weld with your welder. I have a CWI and a CWE from Hobart and was HP/LP/pipe, steam and hydraulic certified. I also have a current ABS shipping certification that I still hold. That was my Job at the US Coast Guard Academy was the welding Instructor for the future USCG Engineers. I went to 6 US Navy schools, all for various welding processes. You hear people say; "I'm a certified welder" ask them in what? There are over 100 ceritfications you can receive. I also certified in the aviation world for "King mounts" which are the aircrafts engine mountings Gas/chrome moly welding. There is a special process for roll bars NASCAR and the NHRA follows, and the list goes on and on. My point here was/is the science and processes are so vast it's incredible. Lastmohecken had to certify for structual welding, which ment he had to pass tests, (more than likely X-ray) of flat, horizontal,(yes there is a difference) vertical up and most likely down, and overhead. His welds had to pass a standard. Anybody who is "certified" for a process has a strict standard to go through. My hardest was boiler welding, (High pressure) 1200 psi steam and sockets. For what your gonna do, get some scrap metal and a bunch of 6011, 6010 and have a ball! Just don't weld "Backhoe" blades or teeth with 6011. You find out fast enough why!
WeldrDave, as is so often the case with many things in life, you don't even know what you don't know until you start to realize what all there is to know about something. I always figured there was a science and art to welding, but never had a reason to contemplate the details. You're absolutely right about my needs in regards to welding....try to get some junk to hold together and not electocute myself. Actually reverse the order of those two needs. Hopefully I can check into the welder soon. Y'all feel free to pass on what seems to you experienced welders the "duh huh" parts.... I will have to get all my info from the fil, you tube/net or whatever y'all are nice enough to share. There are probably some important safety aspects I'd rather not learn from the "experience" section....
You'll only do that if you weld in the rain or your extremely wet, sweating! I KNOW this first hand!!!
Protect your eyes!!! Rule #1. Gloves, #2 and don't weld with a cigarette lighter in your pocket! It dosn't end well...
Your eventually gonna get burned! Not if, it's when. The tops of my feet and top of my head look like the craters on the moon from weld splatter. Put shoes on like "High top" work boots and toung flaps sewn in so hot boogers can't get to your feet, or weld in loafers so you can kick them off in a hurry! Home, I weld in leather boat shoe loafers! I can't stress enough about your eyes though, you only get 1 pair!!!
And leather boots...or at least something that doesn't allow sparks to work their way to your foot...waiting for a sparkler to cool from 1000* while it's being held against your skin by your sock tends to make one do the "crazy welder dance"
I may have said this before but the last time I was buying work boots the kid was trying to steer me towards boots with a nylon tong for breathability. I looked at him and asked if he had ever had hot slag melt into his boot before. He had no idea what I was trying to say so I had to tell him leather only please.
Yep, this is the kind of info that seems common sense to you guys who have done it forever but is priceless to pass on to newbies! I knew the eye pro part was major, and the stuff going everywhere. I intend on being wrapped up in non melting fabric. I have had some fusee slag get on my arm before, burned right through a nomex shirt. Did a dance that I imagine is kin to the welder dance, didnt know I had moves like that....lawd only knows the damage I could have done on some of them nights at VT with those moves!
I don't think he will have much fun if he uses 6010 with that welder. That 7018 wont be much fun unless it has the ac after it also. 6013 gets a bad rap in the U.S. but it is used for cap and fill on pipe overseas, and it is easy to run.
I agree, and it's not my "first choice either" but if thats the "only" thing you have, it'll work. Depends how many amps he throw's at it also, it's gonna splatter like hell, I welded a complete trailer frame with 6010 on my Airco once. It wasn't pretty but held up fine.
Welding with anything Polyester or synthetic clothes on is Bad Juju!!! It'll stick to you if it get's burning. Stick with anything Cotton, Denim and leather as others have said.
Ya them little sparkles have a nasty habit of finding just the right cranny to perforate your hide. Leather is my preferred choice in protection. The new auto darking helmets are really nice, a bit spendy though, but worth it. Sure beats flipping one up and down or a hand held for most situations.
