Entry level saw recommendations

Everyone’s different but I look for high horsepower and low weight. That being said my dad cut enough wood for three houses with a MS-250. Now it’s my job.
At this point in time if I had to have just one saw,,,,my 462 with several different bars When it comes to bucking logs I find no advantage in having more bar than is needed. Standard 18” bar can cut a 34” log if need be.

 

I guess, I just don't get it. I don't understand why anyone would want to buck up firewood with a short bar. I know different parts of the country prefer different length bars, and in my area, the 20 inch bar is very common but is considered the long bar. But to me, it's my short bar. Granted it's long enough for about anything, but why would you prefer to bend over to buck up fire wood, when a 25, or 28" bar lets you stand up, mostly erect and it allows me to brace my saw arm against my hip or leg and is far less tiring and easier on my back.

And like today, I cut down probably 20 trees (I decided to cut a bunch before the sap rises and I am also working at cleaning up and opening up some more ground for more grass for the cattle), many of them were 60 to 80 ft tall and on several my 25" bar didn't stick out very much at all. And I also cut several hard leaner's by doing a face cut, then boring through in the middle and cutting my way through the back. I didn't need all of my bar for that, but I sure liked having it, to keep me just that much farther away from the tree, as several popped and fell very suddenly. No barber chairs, though.

Now, I get it, on wanting a light saw, but to me, not at the expense of giving up my longer bars. However, I used my 461 all afternoon, and it's my heaviest saw, and it is heavy packing it around but I did really learn to appreciate the large falling dogs and full wrap handle on it. Of course being my newest saw, I wanted some saw time on it.

Now I get it on lots of power and the short bar helps put that power to the wood, I guess, but unless you are bogging it down, that chain is not moving any faster on a short bar, (unless you have a bigger sprocket on it), granted the saw may not slow down as much if you crowd it but why crowd it that much.

But the other thing is, I cut one big elm down then cut the stump off and even my 25" bar was too short to make it in one cut, and I almost went and got my 462 with the 28" bar, but I stuck it out and went around the stump and of course was able to cut it off just fine anyway. That elm stump should make a fantastic chopping block for the porch. But it's so heavy, I am going to have to get a ramp or help to load it.

And yes, I like a light saw for limbing, etc. but I still like a longer bar, and I still just don't get it, in regards to short bars, especially if I am having to bend over to buck up firewood laying on the ground.

 

I know a lot of men that like a longer bar for the exact reasons you describe, me included. Especially for felling bigger trees. I also own a pile of saws, so I just match bar length to cc's. I seldom buck logs on the ground & if I do I'll work on my knees to avoid all the bending. Issue I have bucking on the ground with a long bar is the tip in the dirt or potential kickback from the log right behind it. I'll generally just grab the saw with bar length that best matches what I'm cutting. One of the best set ups I've seen was an MS 261 with a 24" narrow kerf bar & chain. That saw was fast & light & would reach to limb trees. It was a Sughi lightweight bar I think.

 

I have a 20 lightweight bar on my 261, and I have considered trying a lightweight 24" on it, but I want to try skip tooth 3/8 and maybe square filed. I already have everything to try it, if decide to, Just need to take the bar off of another saw, to try it. Not really for cutting big wood, just for reach.

 

You haven’t lived until you’ve cut with a 16” bar on a 3120. I was kidding about short bars btw. 12 on 150, 16 on 201, 16 on 242
16 on 261-260, 20 on 044-441, 24 on 462-460, 28 on 661, 30&36 on 084
I do lean over and squat to cut. If I had a machine to lift logs I would stand.

 

What goes on a 500i???

 

When i got my 261 it came with a 20" bar. I did buck wood up to the bars length and it performed okay. Tried it with a 16" bar and performed even better. Less chain to pull.

 

I like the 16” bar fine, and am a little to cautious to be “sawing from the hip,” though I can certainly see the advantage. My next saw I’d like to have the option to swap bars and skip chain, to get into some bigger logs. I’m only semi joking about muffler modding the ryobi. I’ll wait until I have another working saw before I attempt. I bought a new carb for it and never installed because the “mechanic in a bottle” came through and got the free saw starting for me.

 

A blanket

 

I would use 24-28 on a 500, 20 on 400, 20 on 371

 

Lol, I get the feeling Brad is never going to forget about the blanket.

 

371? Never heard of that model???

 

neither is Sandhillbilly!

 

Did horkn want to sell his 029? and yes 16" bar is fine. I actually dont own one at the moment and wish i did. My old 026 is being restored and will have a 16 when i get it back.

 

Not yet, waiting for a PM from Horkn . No rush though, I am still top bidder on the echo cs590. I don’t think it will stick as I am expecting some last minute bids.

 

I’ll probably let it go when you give me a fresh bone to chew on.

 

We need to have the BEST ANSWER tab added beside the like etc.

 

The echo 590 fell through.

 

Bummer, you got any pawn shops nearby? Tree guys occasionally pawn there saws. There’s at least 20% they’ll come off the tag price.

 

Sorry, I got really busy the last few days.