What is most important when sharpening a chain

Done that plenty of times.

 

I think that most of us on here know that a raker and the depth gauge on a chain is the same thing. It is an accepted term.

 

If the raker/cutter/tooth effectiveness is controlled by the depth gauge, being that each link pivots then why do they have to be exactly the same? If each pair has close to the same gap, why would it matter if one pair is like factory new with a .025 gap and the next link is half gone with a .025 gap and the next one is almost to the witness line with a .025 gap? As long as each raker/tooth/cutter grabs the wood and cuts does it matter?

I used to count file strokes and that works good until a tooth needs more. Once I got a grinder and sharpened my first loop, I realized that not 2 rakers/cutter/tooth was the same size every single tooth was different. Apparently the wood or rakers cared, neither the saw, chain, wood complained. A grinder sharpened chain seem to cut smoother, maybe its more efficient maybe not. We know the race chains have hours of file work. If the same person built two identical race chains, then sharpened one with a file and the other with a square grinder, which is faster? If the file sharpened loop is faster, are all teeth exactly the same size, if they are not that indicates that symmetrical teeth are as important as the gap is. A few years ago I got into the square file, then bought a square grinder, these were work chains not race chains that I was playing with. I videoed same log, same saw same link count and the grind chain beat the filed chain. It was close, like a second or two. I need so much wood per winter it adds up per cut, so I dropped the square file. Sharp is sharp, I think the small difference was the smoother chain was more efficient in the cut. Your mileage may vary.

 

Something to keep in mind. As a cutter is sharpened it is actually getting shorter so if there are some that are sharpened a lot more than the others around it, will it be too short to get into the wood effectively??? It's best to keep the cutters all as close as possible.

 

I've occasionally shortened 1 or 2 damaged cutters to remove the damage and noticed that the shortened ones stay sharper longer. Leads me to think that they aren't cutting the same amount.

 

So if I say that I sharpen my rakers I bet I'll be called out on it when in fact I'm playing with some scratcher chain.
I know what you're saying though. Like putting a scabbard on my chainsaw blades.....

 

Can we compromise and call them drags?

If you are referring to the rakers setting, if all the left facing cutters are taking a bigger bite, that will steer you to cut crooked. Been there on the mill/ done that. It stopped cutting as it tried to widen the plank.
I’ve hit metal multiple times while milling and damaged all the cutters on one side of a long loop. It had very small teeth on one side and very long on the other. W/ progressive gauges, it continued to cut perfectly straight(this is the place in time I learned about this method of depth gauge maint). Keeping it cutting straight becomes much more of an issue milling down a 10’ log! And sorry Tom, I kinda got lost when you talked about pairs.

In the end, all that matters is that what you are doing works for you. I’ve had some probably not so unique experiences in my journeys learning about farwood and chainsaws, just trying to share what I’ve learned.

 

Point of that question is without mechanical grinder no two teeth with be exactly the same. I agree they can pull to one side or the other, part of the point that by hand it’s more difficult to have a symmetrical chain than by grinder. I know there are quite a few folks that can.

 

Drags is cool with me as I usually call em that.
I'm just messing with people btw, not trying to bush up anyone's tail.

 

Well to be fair we are not talking about special chains for milling or some other purpose. We are talking about the average regular stuff that people use for cutting firewood. But your expertise is noted.

 

But w/ a progressive drag (lol) gauge, it makes absolutely no difference if the chain remains symmetrical. Stop counting strokes, stop having any concern that they remain close to the same size. That ship has sailed.

Sorry y'all, I'll quit now.

 

Are all progressive gauges the same? Any one recommended over another? I looked at a husky one online, it has a setting for hard wood and softwood. I see that the distance is longer on the hardwood setting compared to the softwood...not sure what that does?

 

Watch the second vid on post #17. Basically increases depth of cut for each tooth.

 

That’s right, it sailed when I got a grinder.

 

Scratcher is not a special purpose chain just the predecessor to what we use now.

 

Imho
In handfiling constant pressure and angle are critical to me as well as
Number of strokes.
People often forget to rotate the file
When sharpening.
And tap against a hard surface
Occasionally to clear loose metal.
If people are not familiar with freehand filing
Those husky roller guides do a good job
On full comp chains
They can't be used on skip if I remember correctly
A good raker gauge is a necessity.

 

Makes sense. The longest tooth/teeth contacting the wood first. Cant say ive ever paid attention to that when sharpening. Ill have to check in the future...if i remember!

 

Watched the vid, I didn't know some people got so precise as to use angle gauges. I assume the difference in angle, and there by depth, is more for softwoods because its easier for the teeth/chain/saw to cut in/through softwoods, so the tooth can "bite" more wood and not overwork the system....

 

I take a Stihl 2 in 1 "easy file" and run it through each tooth as necessary. I'm by no means a purist when it comes to sharpening chains compared to how a lot of you guys seem to be but I have zero complaints with how these 2 in 1's work. It's quick and easy and the chain is sharp. But to be honest I don't cut enough on a daily basis to be a purist.