I have this Jonsered CS 2255 which was not right when I bought it new. It came with a 20" long 3/8 x .050 bar and chain, which is still on the saw, but it came from the factory with the wrong drive sprocket. I think it had a .325 on it. I ran it a little, but not much and had a plenty of issues, with the chain appearing to be sticking, and bottom line is I had a guy fix it, who worked with me, and used to have a small engine shop. He's the one that discovered the wrong drive sprocket, and maybe he replaced the clutch drum, I can't remember. And I have run it some, without problems. The saw cuts good. But I haven't run it that much as I am still on the first chain, but it has been sharpened several times. This saw didn't get a lot of use because I have been running my Stihls mostly. But it got a few days of hard use. Anyway, I suspect (know) I have a problem. I wonder if the clutch is not right, and I have thrown the chain a few times, and had to clean up several drivers that got dinged up, one time. When I pull the chain around the bar by hand, I hear and feel a lot of kind of rough clicking coming from the clutch area. And it's nearly impossible to pull the chain backwards, like you can on a Stihl. However, I can't remember if I ever could pull the chain backwards and I don't know if the saw is supposed to be like that from the factory. I also suspect that the drive wheel might be dinged up or messed up in some way. What has really brought this to my attention is when I adjusted the chain tension, today, I notice after firing it up and running it for just a minute maybe and shutting it off, that the chain was loose, but the problem is it gets loose a little and then if you drag the chain by hand a foot or less, it gets tight again. I don't think it's my bar tip bearing. I am also hearing a metallic racket somewhat when speeding the saw up from idle to 1/2 to 3/4 squirt. the noise seems to be coming from the chain/bar. The chain just seems to be noisy going around the bar. I have not tore into this saw past taking the bar and chain off for maintenance. I am not a saw mechanic. It has the star type sprocket. I don't like the star type sprocket, myself. And I noticed that I can buy an Oregon replacement drive wheel and clutch drum, (drive wheel looks like the ones on my Stihl's). I guess the next worse problem would be a bent shaft or bad shaft bearing. I suspect at the very least, I need a new clutch, clutch drum and drive wheel, and I have a new Oregon bar, for it but have not put it on yet. Suggestions?
Been doing some research, and it's probably the clutch drum and sprocket and bearing, I figure. I need to take it apart. I figure my sprocket is wore out. It looks like it will be a little harder then just pulling a C-clip like on a Stihl.
It sounds to me like your chain, spur drive on the clutch, and possibly the bar tip sprocket are miss matched pitch wise. The bar probably has the pitch info marked on it. It’s also possible that the clutch drum bearing is shot. That could be caused by running mismatched components. Dealer might have set it up wrong. Shouldn’t be to difficult or expensive to cure as long as the crankshaft is not bent or needs bearings
Yes, you are right. I took it apart this morning. Worn sprocket, and the chain is bad. I am sure it stretched of course and the drivers are worn badly. I need to give up on both of them. I didn't even have to block the cylinder. I just tapped it with a hammer and screwdriver, 3 or 4 times just to see and it came right loose. The bearing is good and spun freely after taking the chain off. Whew! At least it's going to be an easy fix. Should I replace the plastic oil pump driver while I am in there? I think its still good and pumping oil ok.
The original bar is correct, but I have a brand new Oregon, I am going to put on it and a new chain of course.
I can't believe it! I had this thing worked and was told that it had the wrong drive sprocket when I bought it new, and maybe it did, I don't know. But the one I just removed says 0.325-7 on it. That would be for a .325 chain; would it not? I have been running this thing for the whole life of the chain. The chain is a Husky and says 80 on the drivers, and according to my research that a 3/8 x .050 chain and the bar says 3/8 x .050. So, no wonder I have has issues with it, even though it seemed to work much better when I got it back from being worked on. And I had done some hard full bar cutting with it, and it cut pretty good. I guess the chain wore the sprocket in and it worked all of this time, even though I did have a rough, notchy advance on the chain when pulling around by hand, but I didn't know. I thought maybe it was just a thing with Jonsereds or Husky's or something. Please correct me, if I am mistaken here.
Good deal that you found it. I wouldn’t replace the oiler worm if it’s not bad. Inspect it for burrs on the plastic threads
Yes, the one that I have ends in 2917 and says .325 on it, so it was definitely wrong, and here's a picture showing the old original that came on it when new, and it was wrong also, but has an entirely different number, and also says .325. The original one that came on the saw is the one on the left, and the replacement one is the bigger one on the right, that I just took off. Both .325, so I don't know what happened at the factory, but they screwed up and then the guy at work, didn't put the right one on either, to match the bar and chain. What saw is the one on the left supposed to fit? The only difference I see is the one on the left, does not have the slots in the sides. Why does my saw need the slots in the sides? Ok, revision: I know why I need the slots. It's to drive the oil pump and fits the notches in the plastic part that I have not taken out and inspected yet. The main problem I had originally with the saw was no oil on the bar, and now I understand why, as the original chain drive sprocket didn't fit the lugs on the plastic sprocket behind it, I think. So, the guy at work must have figured that out, just failed to get the right chain pitch when he ordered the replacement.
Yes, absolutely correct. I just got back from the shop and tried them both on to see the difference. The old original from the factory would did fit up, because it's shorter but did not have the lugs to drive the oil pump, and that is why I could get no oil on the bar, when it was brand new. The second one was right for the saw if I had been running .325 chain and bar. And it worked good enough that I wore out a chain using it, and cut several ricks of wood with it. And it was still cutting wood when I took it off. But I knew it wasn't right when I eventually noticed the saw not maintaining proper chain tension.
I took it off and it looks fine, and turns smooth. But that looks like something I should buy for a spare.
Well, I got parts ordered. I am going with the Oregon floating rim type clutch housing, similar to my Stihl's instead of the fixed gear. And I also found and ordered some of those plastic oil pump drivers, just in case I need them in the future. There's a lot I like about the Jonsered's and Husky's but unfortunately, locally, it's nearly impossible to find parts on the shelf. And finding a shop to work on them seems difficult also. I went to a couple of places today, that I though used to keep more parts, Tractor Supply where I bought the saw and Lowe's and you might buy a saw like the 455 Rancher, or some chain and maybe a fuel or air filter, or a round file, if you are lucky, and that's it. And I found one small engine repair shop, which I called to check on parts, and they don't keep any inventory, and has to order about everything. Be glad to finally get it set up right.
