So in the steel floor thread, this forum, we resolved a few issues. Last week the chimney liner went in, and began installing double wall stove pipe. So far we've been to our local-ish (1:15 drive one way) stove shop to exchange parts. Going back tomorrow to hand back 2 pieces, and get 2 more diff lengths. The liner comes outts the flue at a downward angle... The folks at the stove shop have zero advice or wisdom how to figure this all out. When we exchange parts tomorrow, and dry fit them, if they dont fit, im thinking about returning everything and hiring the job out. Real PITA, and not sure if there is a better way? Sya
I have double wall. Get yourself some adjustable double walled pipe. Pricey but worth many trips to the stove store. I am not sure about the flue at an angle. Edit: Got to thinking Would a double walled Adjustable 90 or 45 give you enough play? 6'' DVL 90 Degree Double-Wall Black Elbow - 6DVL-E90
Adjustable double wall stove pipe assists with not just the install but it is a lot easier to replace down the road. It also looks a lot nicer than the stainless connector from the triple wall chimney pipe since the double wall can be extended to flush with the triple wall. Remember to clamp or screw it so it does not slide per the instructions. I usually replace the screws with stainless steel and then give them a bit of high temp paint to neaten them up.
Can we have a picture or two? So the liner was installed in a flue. Did it come out of the flue at a thimble? Is there a "t" connector at the bottom of the liner? Just need some clarification for a good answer.
Just another note. If you have the reversible outlet on the stove like the Jotul F 400. It does not play well with DVL the way it is manufactured. I ran into this and had to work around it.
Adjustable 45 and telescoping sections are what you're after. Come off the stove with a single wall, adjustable 45 or 90 to match the angle you need to line up to the liner and then a telescoping section to connect the 2. We get out liner kits and fittings from RLH, and they make an adjustable 45 stove starter that you could use to make the transition from the liner into your black stove pipe. This would allow you to get your stove pipe plumb and then you could use standard fittings to make the connection to the stove. But no matter what, you want either a short or long telescoping piece of black pipe. Trying to marry everything up with standard lengths is a lesson in futility! Do you need double wall? How close are combustibles to your stove pipe?
Getting in from work...have a few braincells left yet!! Using double wall bc contractor and stove shoppe said one should continue to use double once started. Perhaps that is just their own brand limitations. Us suckers not in the business wouldnt know that. Chimney lined w/double walled and insulated corrugated, finishes at a T, snout sticks out 4.5" off the face of the masonry (that's code here per contractor). T closed at bottom end to eliminate draft from basement portion of chimney...although I don't think that would be an issue. Went from single wall snout to double wall stove pipe as cieling is about a foot from the snout/stove pipe/hole and or flue in the chimney. Was told I'd have to use double all the way down. Have 3 slip pieces, one coming straight up off the jotul f500, a 45, and then a slip/telescoping bit up to the 90, and then another adjustable bit to get me to the flange that brings the double wall to the 6" snout/thimble/flu. No flexible 45's according.to the stove shop. (Preston Trading Post). The D.W. seems to fit well on the f500, but havent screwed it in yet. Will find better pic in the morning. The stove is 23" to the right of the thimble hole. It is 22.5" off the plane of the chimney....nearest combustible is on the same plane. Just applied for the permit and whatnot. I dread this process almost enough to quit trying. Like they're going to ask for info and documents and make us jump through so many hoops....no one in my circle burns that has a permit , so just guessing an damm near everything, and just hoping it all works out. Thanks for all the replies. Hope I can be as helpfull to someone one day. On the upside, dear wife and I moved 2.5 cord from our holzhausen up under the porch. Will be sheltered from the elements and easier access in foul weather. Primarily oak, seasoned a little over a year, generally 18% and lower on the meter. Only a couple dozen pieces were wet...under a hole in the plastic tarping on top.
That sounds like what you need to make everything work. There should also be a trim ring that covers the area on the chimney where the snout comes through.
Heading back to stove shoppe, returning a couple bits for shorter/longer telescoping ones. Will ask about the gadget to go up against the masonry. The transition from liner (snout) to double wall is single layer. Violates clearance rules. Have a piece of "zero clearance" a fiber mat backed w heavy foil. Will wrap a piece around this part of piping.
So we returned all the double wall stuff, and went to Chim Fab in the big city. The fellow there. Knew his stuff, we dry fitted everything, asked questions, came out with double wall from the snout down to the 90*, single wall to the stove. Much better material than the ventis from preston! Went right together with a little cut off wheel use, and was a third of the cost of the double wall. Chim-fab was the place to go. Have to fab a heat shield.for the bottom of the stove, and we should be good to have the inspection. All the sealing with furnace cement happened last night, new baffle and fiberglass matt went in, and bolted the top down today. If all is well with the dreaded inspection, we could be joining the "elite" rank of wood burning folks here. For spittballing as much as we have, and the wisdom here, I am greatful, and hopeful. Sca (Not screwed together, dry fit till inspection is done)
There used to be a wall there, we opened it up for air circulation, and added a bar. The bar is made of timbers from the kitchen cieling renovation. I wonder if it will be too toasty that close to the stove... Sca
Our bathroom is about as far from the wood stove as can be. Inquiries had been made regarding the existence of heated seats when the woodstove was running. We put the bathroom on its own heating zone to help with chilled tushes. Yours should be <nice>.
Sirchopsalot Do you need the permit for the install or to actually use the stove? I've never heard of needing a permit to use a woodstove.
Nah, just a permit to do the work, then inspection to ensure it is installed per nfpa minimums. Insurance people want the document after the inspection. In anticipation of the inspection monday, I did some cutting with both saws this afternoon, tidied up some un-splittables....throttle therapy if you will. Sca
I know there is a reason for it, and I appreciate that. But I find myself resisting too much oversight, needless red tape etc. Sca
It's laughable/sad when the town sends a young clueless kid out to do a/sign off on chimney install inspection and it sure seems as though this kid doesn't even know what a chimney is. Especially when there are flagrant violations of clearance to combustible rules. And those are just the ones easily seen. Money and plausible deniability underlies the corruption. Sad.
