Ok, my SJ is out for delivery today! I ordered it three or so months ago. I'll reread this thread again for the third time after I get the manual read. Thanks to the contributors to this thread! Excited to have consistently sharp chains!
For those with the Super Jolly and/or comparable Oregon, are you able to sharpen one side of the chain, rotate the base, sharpen the other side of the chain and get equal length teeth? I have the Timber Tuff crap I purchased on Amazon, thinking it was "good" but it takes constant adjustment to make sure both sides are ending up with the same length cutters.
Your vice needs adjusted for the gauge chain you’re using to get L and R cutters the same length. The Super Jolly needs it too
What part of it needs to be adjusted. I'm sure if I sat down and thought about, I could figure it out, but it's complicated geometry.
huskihl I think I get it. There really is no way to actually get to automatically be centered for left or right. Just sharpen the left side/or rights side (Which ever is initially shorter). Then rotate the grander to the the other side and adjust the vise to get it to sharpen that side to match the first side. Takes a little reading the in the Oregon manuals to figure out. I just assumed that there would be a way to get it to set the cutter stop location and be able to rotate it left or right and cut the same length on both sides. Doesn't appear so.
The vise needs to be centered. If your left cutters are shorter than your right cutters, loosen the jam nut on the backside of the vice and loosen the setscrew a quarter of a turn and snug the jam nut back up
That makes sense. I will give it a try this evening. Thanks. I noticed that screw and nut the other night, but just didn't think about the geometry well enough.
It took me a while to figure it out as well. Until I realized that because you are rotating the vise on an angle, moving the back of the vice away from you actually leaves more material on the left cutters and removes more material on the right cutters. That’s why the standard grinders should be set up with your most popular chain gauge. You can really only get it perfect with one gauge, but if you set it up for .058, it would still be really close with .050 or .063
Still not even setup up, but I’m sure I will! I’ll get some good use soon because I am about to process about 15 cords of tree workers rounds!
No not at all, but you can tell the wife whatever you deem necessary LOL The super jolly, which is the same as the Oregon 620 I believe, has a gauge dial on the front that you set to whatever gauge chain you’re grinding. Turning that dial from a thinner to a wider gauge moves half of the vise in and out
I have the timber tuff as well and it works for me. Is it a little sloppy? Yes! I guess I’ve learned how to use it and get reproducible results. As far as the cutter teeth, I measure the teeth with a set of calipers and if one side is any shorter, I start with that side. Grind enough to get them sharp, then switch sides and grind them down until they are same length as the other side. Then I check my rakers, and if they need to be knocked down, I take the vise to 90 degrees and adjust the knob to take off how much I want off, and that’s about it. They’re kinda finicky, but I’ve learned what I need to do to make it work for me. Probably wouldn’t be able to use a quality grinder now
I’ll have to check the jam nut that Huskily was referencing in his posts to see if I can get away from having to grind more off the one side to keep them even. I get a lot of life out of my chains as it is now, but seems I should be able to get even more if I am only grinding the same amount on each side of cutters.
Ordered the super jolly with the hyd. Vice today. I have a bunch of jacked up chains to practice on. Looking forward to fooling with it.