Anti-kick back chain vs non....

Hi Guys -

I'm running a 450 Rancher with 20" bar as my workhorse saw. I'm soon to be upgrading to a 572 built by Huskhil with a 32" bar. (WHEE!) All my saws in the past have had the standard low-kickback chain that would be purchased from the local hardware store.

It doesn't appear that low-kickback chain is available in loops for the bigger saws, and not really looking to buy reels of chain and make my own. I never understood how that worked until I started looking at chains and understanding the differences between chisel/semi-chisel etc

I'm curious what most people are using? I've never used a standard chain (not low kickback) and curious (and a little nervous) what kind of difference I'll see, other having to be more conscious of the upper quadrant of the bar.

 

I have the saw your about to have.
Have fun. The difference between that and your 450 should be readily apparent

ive got a full chisel, full compliment series on it now on a 24”
Planning to go to 20”, same chain but change to a 8T rim sprocket, for a while anyway.

 

I would go to a Husky or Stihl shop that carries a good selection of chain, or can make you one from a roll, and try some full chisel non-safety chain with your 450 before I get the 572 to you. Just to give you a chance to get used to it

 

This ^^^. Good solid, sound & safe advice.

 

Full chisel is shaped like a 7 and semi-chisel is a ? rounded shape.
That rounded shape of semi really lasts longer if you are cutting dirty wood. I don’t use it at all because the full chisel cuts much quicker. You just need to be much more careful you don’t touch dirt.
The safety chain compared to non, will not be a huge difference, unless you had the wild stuff like this:


It will just cut more aggressively, and if you put the top 1/4 of the tip where it shouldn’t be, you will get the bar slung straight up and or back (kick back). Practice safe cutting techniques and it’s a nonissue.


When you get the ported 572 the difference will be tremendous, so I’d take Kevin’s advice and get a loop of the non safety and run it on your 450. You’ll like it.

 

Any type of chainsaw chain and bar combination can bite you. I had my little top handle saw kick off a spring pole once and bite my toe. The chain on it doesnt even look like it would cut because the teeth are so rounded over and there are like 3 humps in between teeth to keep it from kicking.

 

I use full chizel on all my saws. As noted previously it cuts quicker but dulls easier.

 

thanks Guys -

called the local shop, they have it in stock so I'll take a swing in there and get a semi and full chain for the rancher and give it a go this weekend. Who would have thought there was so much to learn just to make some firewood!!

 

The only negative is, you become so productive with a ported saw and stupid sharp chain, the saw time is greatly reduced, which is the best part of hoarding. Well, to some of us it is (everyone with a ported saw at least).

 

Your learning curve is just getting started. These folks will teach you more about firewood than you thought there was to know.

 

Ported 572! Your gonna love that. 32 inch bar? You must have some big trees to process. Yes you will notice a huge difference using full chisel vs. saftey chain, be careful.

 

I use chisel chain on all my saws. I have never had a saw kick back on me and I am always very aware of where the bar tip is at all times.
Like others have said it is just a matter of forming and practicing safe procedures. You will not have a problem and will do well. Great saw by the way. Congrats.

 

Aint that the truth!

 

Yeah, I got a couple of big old dead standing oaks that are all of 30" across that have to come down. I figure I can always get a shorter bar if necessary. The other advantage is don't have to bend down as far, which makes my back happy. Buy once, cry once.

LOL, wife said, lets burn wood. It'll be fun she said. We'll save money she said.. It sure is fun. Don't know about the saving money part yet.

 

Wait until you need another saw, then another. Throw in a splitter, tractor, pickup, trailer and the list is endless. At least for me this is how it went.

 

Truth !!!

 

On my Makita 36V I use an oregon low profile anti-kickback chain. 3/8" pitch, .043 gauge, 14" bar, 52 links.

On my Stihl 028 gas I use a Stihl Rapid Super (non-low profile, non-anti-kickback) chain. .325" pitch, .063 gauge, 18" bar, 74 links.

I can definitely tell that the bite on the Stihl is a lot more noticeable. I'd say it's probably a combination of the difference in tooth, more power coming out of the Stihl saw, and the wider kerf/cut of the Stihl. I'm a firewood beginner too (just got the Stihl a few weeks ago, first gas saw ever).......and I can feel the Stihl pull into the wood more aggresively.

But man I really do enjoy the way it rips through the wood!

 

Hey Joe, this is where I buy my chain from. It's been awhile since I have, but the last time I did he was about as cheap as I could find. Free shipping too.

Oregon Chainsaw Chain Guide Bar and Sprocket at Discount prices

 

+1 for logger chain. ^^

 

LOL - the more I read, the more I've learn.... In researching chains, I found a little unknown fact (to me anyways), that I'm supposed to replace my sprocket on the chainsaw. HUH? According to Oregon, every couple of chains!! RUH ROH RAGGY, I'm still running the original from 2014. I've cut a LOT of wood with this thing. I supposed I should crack that sucker open and see what I have left in there. I don't notice any adverse vibration or anything like that so it never occured to me that the sprocket was a consumable like the chain.

Any advice on how to replace these? Special tools etc? I found one youtube video that shows the process, looks pretty straight forward, but he was using a piece of rope in the cylinder to keep the motor from turning while cranking the clutch off. Is there a better way than stuff a foreign object into the motor??